Overhead cluster 12v ignition switched power pin outs

Updated: 1/16/18 Only use the switched 12v lead for now (I deleted the constant power part) The switched one shown works perfectly.

 

Cool. I just realized you posted two options. I’m tapped into the mirror wire harness for my radar detector. Going to tap into the same source under the panel (as you described) for my dash cam. I’m assuming it’s fine to use the same power source for two devices such as a radar detector and dash cam?

 

That should be ok both are pretty low watt devices.

 

Anyone confirm Tacoma wiring is 12v or 6v in 2011 sport DCLB? Is the camera and mirror 12v or 6v?

 

I would bet they are 12v, good to check first though.

 

How would you check that?

 

With a volt meter. Not sure how else you could do this without potentially frying things by trial and error.

 

Ok, I understand. I know what a voltmeter is and badically how to use it Im more wondering where you check, specifically if checking back up cam and mirror display?

 

You can attach the voltmeter probes directly to the mirror wires - set the volt meter to read up to 12v dc. If you are not sure how to do it, perhaps someone here will help. I have a 2017 TRD, and the mirror uses 12v. But being honest and sincere, if you are not sure how to use a volt meter, please have someone help you with this project that can check the polarity, amperage ratings, and voltage of your setup.

 

Cool thanks

 

Quick question to the op. What did you end up using to tap into the wires. Can’t tell since the wire harness is hiding it in the picture.

 

Plastic tap splice wire connectors - you can find them at most automotive and true value stores. Get the small (14-16 gauge) ones since the wires are not that big.

 

Oh snap! Just realized the blue connectors in the picture are what you actually installed. Thought they were harnesses or something. Sorry for the silly question. Definitely have played with tap splices before.

 

Thanks for this write-up and tips, @OnHartung'sRoad.
I ended up using this device as I needed one mini-USB power source to power a dash cam (

Arpenkin HardWire Kit Mini USB 12V to 5V Magnet Ring Anti-Interferance Power Adapter Cord Cable - Compatible for Rexing V1, A119 A119S A118 A118C A118C2 B40 G1W, G1W-C, G1WH, GT680W(Mini USB)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDKY6IW).

I tapped into the same wires you did but ended up going a t-splice solder route. Basically trimmed away the insulation on the wires and soldered the USB box wires accordingly. Tested it out and I'm getting power to my camera as desired. Routed the USB wire down through the mirror wire race way. Super clean and very straight forward. Thanks again!

 

Are your DRLs flickering?

 

No but I think you missed a conversation a few posts up between me and the OP. He stated that he doesn't recommend tapping into the larger connector to avoid potential issues. Tapping into the brownish wire and the black/white wire that feed power to the mirror is what is recommended. That's what I ended up doing as I had already tapped into these wires for my radar detector without issue.

 

You're right, I did miss it. Disregard.

 

1/16/18: sorry guys, I deleted the constant power part of this in the instructions due to the DLR issue- the switched 12v tap into the mirror circuit works well, I’ve been using it since August.

 

I'll second that. I have two devices running off the same switched power source. A 12v radar detector and a 12v to 5v convertor for my dash cam. All working like a charm with no side effects. The power source powers my auto-dimming rear view mirror and no issues there either.

 

Perfect write up, I was able to use the 12v to 5v USB regulator under the cluster in the headliner. The wires on mine were blue, brown/black, red, light brown, and brown/black. Notice I didn't have white/black stripe, but I assumed that the brown/black pairs in my harness were the same as the white/black in the original writeup and it worked out fine. Install took less than 10 minutes. Thanks!