Fox 2.0 Coilover IFP and rear 2.0 Remote Reservoir review

Yes.

And apologies yet again for not getting pics up (think the other Chase described it well enough though), had my busiest week since being in practice. Business is booming.

Ride will not change much with new UCA's going to 3 inches. I would guess it might be slightly stiffer bc of the suspension angles, but prob not noticeable. Fox does not use progressive coils so ride is not affected much. And for 3 full inches wo weight up front, I would go with 6 turns on driver's and 3 on passenger. Have to have new UCA's though.

As far as using these shocks for a "mid-travel" coil over, these are designed for stock travel and are not long enough to be considered "mid-travel." Mully's use of new UCA's is to clear the coils and get alignment right after cranking them all the way up to 3 inches. To have a true extended travel kit, you'll need to look into different coil overs (Icon) that are specifically designed for the ~.5" extra travel. I didn't find the extra travel worth the expense after ample research. The setup I have described with the corrected height changes up front is ideal in my opinion for both on and off-road and longevity of components... Unless you run in the desert at above 35mph for distance... Then go with remote resi's all around and spend some serious cash.

Lastly, talked to yet another guy today that caked his rear diff breather with mud and popped the axle seals. His Diff locked up and he had to be towed. Extend that thing if you ever get in thick mud fellas. No idea why Toyota put the breather right on top of the pumpkin! Extended mine to behind the driver's taillight.

 

Made the most of Wheelers' Black Friday deal. Got the 2.0s front and back with resi in the rear, 3 leaf aal. Happy I was able to get the front superbumps for free so bought the rear superbumps and single roost guard too. Beyond hyped, supposed to get here next Monday. None of y'all had spacing problems running stock TRD wheels right? I'll eventually be getting some 16" VTX Terra's with 265/75/16 falkens. Student loans just started up this month so this is definitely gunna be it for a little hahaha

 

AWESOME. You should be stoked, your suspension will be done. No clearance issues with TRD wheels. Grease the leaves with marine grease when you rebuild them and you won't get squeaks.

 

Merry Christmas to me! Wheeler's on Black Friday was very good to me, 2.0's front and back, 3-leaf aal, front (free) and rear superbumps, unneeded spanner wrench (free), t-shirt (free), roost guard, and best of all...a free bag of candy! So apparently the 2.0s don't have a 90 on the rear resis anymore? made adjustment beyond easy. Separate bushing for the lower mount was provided. Had to at least post a pic of the shocks for ya'll. Can't do an install until I had down to see the fam for Xmas...Needless to say I'll be drolling over these in the guest bedroom of our apartment for the next 2 weeks. Just so we're clear....mount the rears so the resi points toward the rear of the truck? Got the roost guard set on what will be the passenger shock.

 

Yes, only way to clear the roost on the passenger side. If my resi had as long of a line on it as yours, I might consider mounting it to the frame. Just a thought from wishful thinking haha.
And go ahead and get one of those things in a spring compressor and make the adjustment. 3 turns up on the driver's for dead level w/o weight in the bed, or 3 turns down on passenger for factory rake and level when towing a fair amount (heavy moving trailer, etc. prob still level w say a john boat center consol w a 35hp out back w/ 3 turns up on driver's).

 

Actually crossed my mind...for the time being I'm just going to use the billet clamp. They talk about in the install guide installing on the frame. I feel like it should be ok either way in the end. Will definitely post a few pics after the install, will be getting a new wheel/tire setup after the holidays so running stock for a few days after the install. Break in the suspension big time on some Rhode Island winter pot holes

 

Sub’d for future possible suspension replacements.

@Chaz84 I’m glad I stumbled on this thread. I too am in Ga, and from the sounds of things share similar truck uses/needs. I too very much like the ride/performance of my factory Off-road suspension.

I ran a OME/Dakar full setup and LR UCA on my ‘08. As much as it met my needs, I felt it was a little stiffer than I liked. I went Dakar’s at that time because I ran a topper full time, and would load up a few hundred additional pounds of gear/tools.

I’ll soon be adding a top for my ‘17 so it’s only a matter of time before the factory leafs go flat and will probably need replacing (main reason I lifted my ‘08). I’ve already started researching lifts, again, and Fox and Kings keep finding their way back on my radar because they are progressive. I have eliminated Icon because they are digressive, and I think Bilstein 5100/6112 are as well but I could be wrong.

Sorry for the rant. Just meant to say thanks for the great write up and continued feedback/contributions to others in their pursuit of suspension knowledge. Good on ya sir

 

Appreciate that! And you are correct about the progressive and digression valving... Why Billy's and icons are stiff. Kings are shweet, but not in my budget. If you go with kings, make sure the springs aren't over 650lbs or she'll be stiff as a board. I have discussed how factory springs are progressive and how aftermarket springs are not, just haven't delved into the shock valving so again appreciate you adding to the thread for those that need to know.

 

whats the easiest and best way to adjust these? On the Truck? Off the Truck? In a coil press?

 

I used a coil press. Compress the coil, loosen the Allen bolt on the collar, (make a mark on the collar and shock body with a sharpie, etc. in factory position), and the collar spins freely.

As stated previously, it is not recommended to attempt adjusting these on the truck bc the body is aluminum (one of the reasons I like these, no rust... EVER); however, I think it can be done with super sketchy stand alone coil compressors on a lift with the tire off and some serious patience. DO NOT attempt to turn the collar with any resistance from the coil on the collar or your threads will say F you and you're done.

I have laid out what I recommend for the amount of height with and wo new UCA's in earlier posts.

 

@Chaz84 finally getting to install everything either Saturday or Tuesday morning...how in the hell did you get the new bushing into the eyelet on the rear shocks

 

Did you buy the spanner wrench?

 

I described that process early in this thread. Quick description: use a vise and two spark plug sockets. Use one socket smaller than the shock opening to push the bushing out into the larger socket that is larger than the shock opening (I put a shop towel but the shock mount and the larger socket to keep from scratching the shock mount as well, but they'll come right out).

 

Definitely not. Don't need it. With the coil compressed and the Allen key loosened the collar spins freely. Only need a spanner if turning the collar while it's under pressure one steel bodied shocks.

 

Finally got the full kit installed yesterday, phone died before we finished the front end so these are the only pics I have for now. I think the future father-in-law has some from the back end. Tested the fit of the new VTX Terras, gunna get some Falken Wild Peak 265/75's and be done for a little while. @Chaz84 I'm pretty sure my install was the complete opposite of yours...rear got finished with little to no issues whatsoever, front took about 3-4 hours to do...let's just say thank god the father in law knows a guy with a full garage and a rotary lift, there may have been a guest appearance by the acetylene torch and a grinder or two. Rear was a piece of cake...shocks removed, broke leaf pack apart, scraped everything down with a wire brush, cleaned, primed and painted frame, greased leafs, had to remove one of the rear retention shackles on the stock leaf pack to make room for the 3 leaf aal, and notch out a small portion of the shock bucket to make room for the resi hose, other than that the rear was a breeze, took maybe 2 hours simply cuz we cleaned up some rust.

The fiance and I were supposed to meet with her friends on the way back up north last night around 4...we didn't finish the truck til 5, go to her friends in Merrimack around 7...oops. Took some sweet talking but she didn't cut my nuts off. Getting the front end aligned either today or tomorrow...didn't have time to get in yesterday. Agree with everyone so far about overall ride, even the wifey noticed how much better it handled the shitty-always-under-construction-highways of Massachusetts on our way back to NH and overall ride in general feels smoother and more consistent, not as stiff as stock but definitely not too soft. Cant wait to bounce her around and test out the superbumps. Will get a few pics in over the next couple days of how shes sitting and maybe get some cliche AF snowy mountain side of the road pics this weekend.

Side note....didn't realize the dealer probably only did a pad slap before I bought her in august...pads are fine, rotors though....once the snow is gone they're getting chucked in the dumpster.

 

I absolutely love mine! They took a few miles for everything to break in, but now the ride is super smooth and composed off road. I later installed the TC UCA's and that really took the ride to the next level. I also have about 15K miles on mine now. I have external resi's in the rear along with the 3 leaf pack from headstrong.

 

Father-in-law had a couple pics of the install, you can see the notch we had to grind out for the resi hose to fit, not a big deal. Almost looks like it's supposed to be there after we cleaned up and painted the frame. I did notice yesterday that likely due to some settling I have to notch out a little more on the passenger side, the hose is sitting right inside the notch resting on the shock bucket and I'm not comfortable with that in the long run or when I get into the woods again in the spring...simple fix, next time the fiance and I visit the family I'll clean it up a bit. Doesn't look like its pressing on the line a whole lot, I just don't want it to rub and strain the line too much.

 

How old are those shocks? Your fitting is different on the resi hose.

EDIT

Maybe it's different on the non CD adjustable 2.0s.

 

Chase, I wondered the same thing when I got them. They're brand new from Wheeler's as of thanksgiving. I thought about pointing the hose outward then mounting the resi on the rear face of the shock body but since there's no 90 connection I'd rather have the hose tucked slightly under the shock bucket. My thought as to why the hose connection is different is because I got the 0-2" (or is it 3"?) shock instead of the 0-1" so that could be it...or the fact I went without the CD adjuster. I think once I fix the notch on the PS I should be good to go, have the resi on both sides mounted at least .5" above the bottom of the shock body so I don't think I should have any clearance issues despite the longer hose.