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GROUPBUY: 3rd Gen JL Audio Stealthbox

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Super white Taco, Nov 21, 2017.

  1. Dec 20, 2017 at 5:26 AM
    #61
    solscooter

    solscooter Sh!t Outta Luck

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    Why sure! It's a switch-pro set up from @Mr.PowerTrays
    Goto powertrays.com to get one for yourself.
     
    Mr.PowerTrays likes this.
  2. Dec 20, 2017 at 6:42 PM
    #62
    Tigervuu

    Tigervuu Member

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    Much Thanks!!! Happy Holidays!!
     
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  3. Dec 20, 2017 at 7:57 PM
    #63
    Jjhebert

    Jjhebert Member

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    None yet
    How did I not see this
     
  4. Dec 21, 2017 at 2:47 PM
    #64
    solscooter

    solscooter Sh!t Outta Luck

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    @Maikel81 is there a reason for using the marine version of that amp? Could you also take a close up pic of your current settings. Guess what amp I just picked up
     
  5. Dec 21, 2017 at 2:54 PM
    #65
    Maikel81

    Maikel81 Member

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    I will take that picture tomorrow morning in daylight. There is no real performance difference between the M700/5 and the XD700/5. The reason I chose the marine amp is because it was readily available at the time the JL tech installed it.

    Which amp did you get?
     
  6. Dec 21, 2017 at 2:56 PM
    #66
    dlo13

    dlo13 TinyRigCo.

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    The shakes things isnt the fault of the sub. You need to use CLD to kill vibrations, Foam to Kill rattles, and MLV to sound proof.
     
  7. Dec 21, 2017 at 3:05 PM
    #67
    solscooter

    solscooter Sh!t Outta Luck

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    Thanks!

    Picked up a XD700/5v2. My current amp is too powerful for the sub when running 2ohm
     
  8. Dec 21, 2017 at 3:06 PM
    #68
    Maikel81

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    You will not be disappointed. It is a great amp, and when properly set up you will have a great sound.
     
  9. Dec 21, 2017 at 3:34 PM
    #69
    Maikel81

    Maikel81 Member

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    What are you running for your interior doors speakers and tweeters?
     
  10. Dec 21, 2017 at 4:32 PM
    #70
    solscooter

    solscooter Sh!t Outta Luck

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    Last edited: Dec 21, 2017
    Racer-X likes this.
  11. Dec 21, 2017 at 4:49 PM
    #71
    dlo13

    dlo13 TinyRigCo.

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    If you are not an audio expert and want to add a sub, I would recommend this 100%. Even without the discount on the group buy. Stealthboxes are really great for what they are.

    You do not need to worry about "overpowering" a sub.
     
  12. Dec 21, 2017 at 4:53 PM
    #72
    Maikel81

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  13. Dec 21, 2017 at 5:00 PM
    #73
    dlo13

    dlo13 TinyRigCo.

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    Coax with a tweeter?
     
  14. Dec 21, 2017 at 5:04 PM
    #74
    Maikel81

    Maikel81 Member

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    It provides an excellent crisp and clear sound. There are no distortions, vocals and music sound great. I have it all powered with the 700/5.
     
  15. Dec 21, 2017 at 5:08 PM
    #75
    dlo13

    dlo13 TinyRigCo.

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    Honestly - If you enjoy it, that is all that matters.
    There are a lot of technical reasons why that's no good.

    But again - if you are happy with it - I wont throw shade :)
     
  16. Dec 21, 2017 at 5:32 PM
    #76
    solscooter

    solscooter Sh!t Outta Luck

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    So 500watt RMS from amp on a sub rated for 300watt RMS is no problem?
     
  17. Dec 21, 2017 at 5:35 PM
    #77
    dlo13

    dlo13 TinyRigCo.

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    That is actually Perfect!

    Your amp isn't constantly pushing max power.

    Remember - Gain isn't volume.
     
  18. Dec 24, 2017 at 8:31 AM
    #78
    Maikel81

    Maikel81 Member

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    20171224_111237.jpg 20171224_111207.jpg 20171224_111213_001.jpg
     
  19. Dec 24, 2017 at 9:08 AM
    #79
    poopshute

    poopshute Well-Known Member

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    A quick schooling for these questions.

    The first thing you will need is an amp for this stealth box to work. The amp needs direct power from your battery (fused and proper gauge wire). The amp should be mounted somewhere near the sub. Under the driver or passenger seat is a good option.

    The next thing you need is a signal from the deck to the amp. There are two options here. Pre-amp connections that are found on aftermarket units (not on the stock unit) and speaker-in connections. The speaker-in connection is what you need to use when utilizing the stock head unit. The speaker-in connection on the amp needs a speaker signal from your head unit (not that you’d want to do this but you could literally remove the wires from your door speakers and connect them to the amp). The amp has a low level filter and will filter out the low bass sounds and pass them to the sub. Places like *********.com have plug-n-play harnesses that connect to the back of our stock head units and tap into the rear speaker out outs providing a spare speaker line to be used to connect to an amp. Use these wires to connect to the speaker-in ports on the amp.

    The last connection you’ll need are the wires that connect the amp to the subwoofer.

    You may also need an optional “remote on” wire from your head unit to the amp. If your amp does not have an “auto-on” feature, the remote wire is needed. ********* provides a plug-n-play harness for this as well. Basically this part of the setup is what turns the amp on and off. You don’t want an amp to stay on all the time since it’s connexted directly to your battery. If you’re buying a new amp, do yourself a favor and buy an amp with an auto-on feature. It automatically turns off/on based on if a signal is being received from the speaker-in connection.

    That’s it in a nutshell to answer the questions above. Again, if any of this seems over your head or you’re not familiar with electronics and fuses/proper wire gauges, let a Pro do this. However, with enough research, most technically inclined people can figure this out. It’s definitely not rocket science.
     
    TexTako, stealthmode and dlo13 like this.
  20. Dec 29, 2017 at 9:25 AM
    #80
    SWPRO

    SWPRO Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know if we could set up another group buy discount? Seems like a few others including myself missed out on this one. OP, do you have contact info of anyone I could contact and I can try to set up another one?
     

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