Home Improvement Today?

I think you're trying to say a 3-way switch, and those require a "red" AKA traveler wire.
You are correct though if someone is using a common as a "HOT" wire it does require an electrical tape or other type of flagging indicating it.

 

Should i be concerned about that wire? When I had the breaker off I noticed that the smoke detectors and a nearby outlet also went off. In that box is a switch for the exterior garage lights, an exterior porch light (which is the timer switch) and an interior foyer chandelier. One wire comes into the box and the white goes to Black and the black goes to white. I don't believe that wire has anything to do with the switches. I also don't think the previous homeowner would have done any electrical work. When I say she left everything original I mean she even left the plastic film on the refrigerator for 23 years.... That film Kept the little light switch 'button' pressed in so for 23 years there was no light on in the fridge. House was also immaculate and they had service records and manuals and notes for everything. Even have all of the blueprints and landscape design for the place.

There's a lot of wires in the box but it's really not messy. All the same wire except for the timer switch, all tightly twisted together. I just pulled it back out to make the picture more useful.

 

You can always turn off the breaker --> disconnect those wires from the bundle, put wire nuts on the ends --> turn breaker back on and figure out what it goes to and IF it is supposed to be that way or not.

 

Ya that's what I was thinking. If it was crossed wouldn't it be tripping the breaker?

 

Nope

If reversed: the object/fixture that it is connected to it would still operate; however the fixture is now considered to be before the circuit protection (fuse/ breaker). Thus, because it's A/C the power is osculating/ alternating on both conductors(wires) and therefor the breaker is still protecting the circuit. If you had a GFCI or Ground Fault breaker you would further increase the opportunity for tripping the device because these devices are checking ground(green) and neutral(white) for potential differences. I'f you're really concerned disconnect the wires as I said earlier to find out what device it goes to and see if that is wired correctly at the device and you can correct the wiring accordingly.

 

Got our LVL jacking beams in , lifted and leveled the house with 4 / 20 ton jacks per beam






Added 6x6 posts to 16" x 16" pier blocks to carry the house while we do the foundation work

That all done we were able to remove all the old posts that were holding up the house and now we are ready to have the machine arrive and dig for the foundation footings




We're now off till Jan 2nd , machine arrives then

 

Meh. Looks pretty typical from what I've seen in gang boxes. I put a timer in for my dad, and it gets fucking tight and stiff with those timer boxes too. Tight and stiff. Just gonna leave that here.

 

OK, calling HVAC experts.

One of our AC/heat pump systems took a shit right before Thanksgiving. Still dealing with the home warranty company, and on our third vendor, who finally seems worth a shit. We hope to have a plan settled by the time I get back from Chicago after Christmas. The 3.5 T system is 21 years old. The compressor is shitting the bed, it has a few other issues, and the warranty company is considering full system replacement if it is not worth repairing and will cause them future headaches.

Second big-ass factor: working with the guy today, we determined, as I suspected, that the unit is undersized for the space it conditions. Based on square footage and very high ceiling in most of its zone (12 to 16 to 20), his opinion that he put in writing is that it should be a 4 tons system. (This guy was an older installer and talked lots of technical straight details to me. I think he's do a good job. His company uses American Standard.)

The warranty company will only replace, not upgrade, undersized stuff. Also, being a warranty company, they would go with an "economical" system. There may be an option for them to pay it off prorated to me to do as I please to "upgrade" to a properly sized system.

Brand: which one? There are so many, every one seems to get some negative reviews. As I understand, American Standard is basically Trane. I've heard good and bad, but some of that can be limited to specific lines or models. I've heard Goodman is shit pretty consistently. I've also heard Lenox is not great. Carrier? Others? Yada yada yada.

Please opine on brand based on experience and fact, because in many cases, the contractors favor or specialize in a specific brand, so they go hand in hand and would be a major factor in my decision.

 

yes sorry I did mean a 3 way switch.

 

also on that switch in the picture, I'm not an electrician but have always been told not to use the wire push in on the back. better to use the screws on the side.

 

I am not a HVAC expert, but deal with multiple units at work, along with the "experts" that deal with them. Personally, I will never buy a Carrier product. Propriety, overpriced junk. Our "expert" recommended Tempstar, made by International Comfort Products. Funny, they are a subsidiary/partner of Carrier. Read here...https://www.achrnews.com/articles/96412-carrier-and-icp-distinct-and-separate We have had a LOT of problems with our Carrier products over the years, all under 10 yrs old too. I realize my home unit is only one, but, knock on wood, it has been flawless in the 7 yrs since purchase. My uncle has had a Goodman unit in for 8 years, and no issues either. Just my 2 pennies.

 

Thanks, I appreciate that. In our previous house we had a traditional split system, the seller had to replace the evaporator/heater/air handler about a month before we bought it in the summer. He replaced it with a Goodman. That winter we had an issue with the heater not firing pretty early on. Twice we had to run through some stupid procedure to help it unfuck itself. Not impressed. That's besides other stories I've heard.

 

Why not? If it is a UL/CUL listed item and you strip the wire only the length indicated on the device there should be no issue. The press in type of wire connection is a permanent connection <-- and this is the only reason not to use the press in connection (for future device replacement you need to cut the wire in most instances.)

 

had a few electrical problems when we bought the house. had an electrician come in and changed a few things including a plug outlet that had wires black and melted a little. said it was from what he called plug stabbing. told me they should never use them.

 

Just swapped out a disposal at the rental. Tough work. Need beer.

 

We gave you a solution to that problem

 

Haha, totally. I actually might make it out tonight for a few for my buddy's birthday. I'll check the thread to see where y'all end up.

 

Your company won’t pay out the “cost” of a replacement to let you do what you want with it? Some companies I have worked with would pay my own vendors if I just submitted the receipt to them. However, they took a LONG time to pay out. But they still did.

 

Back stab are bad, a fire waiting to happen. The back wire outlets, where you push the wire in and tighten the screw are fine.

 

Aight guys. I have never worked with this yet in my house flips. I generally do full guts. This current house is a 3 family and I'll be holding it as a rental for a long while.

I have hot water radiators for a heating system. I'm replacing the floor in the apartment with plywood. How would you recommend I get the old wood out and replace with the plywood? Radiators are heavy AF