Confirmed- don't switch back to regular oil after high mileage

And just for the record. I'm not saying this will happen in all cases. I'm saying it happened in mine. So maybe it's a 1:100 chance. I'm sure it depends on a variety of factors. Was just trying to put it out there. In case someone is on the fence about doing it.

 

You need to be careful here. There re two thoughts to DC Electricity "Flow" or "Current" - Conventional Current flow and Electron Current flow. Conventional flow theory says the electricity "flows" in the direction of Plus to Minus. However since an electrons travel from atom to atom they must have a ""hole" or place to move to. When an atom has all it's electrons it's considered to be stable or neutral. When Electrons have a missing Electron "or hole for an electron" it's considered to be Positive. If an atom has an extra electron It's positive. So, electrons need a place to "move" to and that's the atom with the missing electron (Pos). Therefore Electron Current says Electrons move from a Negative atom to a positive one.

So .... you need to drive the car in reverse to change the electricity flow.

yabba dabba doo!

 

Not a Cap = a diode (one way valve) - you do not want it to come back

 

Every once in a while, I pop into the forums and read an absolutely out of control thread where I can't stop both reading and laughing at the idiocy it contains within it...

This thread wins for the month of December.

 

I know that with time the wheat will separate from the chaff and I didn't take insult since I didn't write the original post. I did wonder about the poor guy (OP) who didn't understand what he was talking about and then became the object of ridicule. Seemed a little sad.

 

An Idiot was sitting in the garage hitting themself (to be gender neutral) and a neighbor stops over and ask why ............. Themself says - because it feels soooooo good when I stop ............

 

You are incorrect. The oil is the cause of the leak and to prove it OP should drain his oil...I bet that the leak will stop when there is no more oil in the pan.

 

There is a huge difference between a Seal and the FIPG used on the oil pan.

Seals


FIPG

 

So the plot thickens. After all the verbal abuse I decided to go out and double check what I was seeing. What I'm seeing now is oil not just on the pan but also oil down by the bottom belt pulleys (Looking through the space above the skid plate and under the radiator). I can't see where it's coming from other than it looks like the front of the motor somewhere around or above the pulleys. Checked the oil filter all looks good there. Going to take the plate off and get a better look this weekend. Will update.

I'm prepared to eat crow on this one if I am completely off. Stand by

 

I'll still stand by my thought not to switch back to regular oil after you use high mileage. It's also easier to put high mileage back in and see if that stops the leak. If it doesn't then fix it.

 

I remember when that fucker Art Modell moved the team to Baltimore. I still hate the fucking Ravens for this very reason. I could care about football, but I'm for anyone playing against the Ravens.

 

Unless you're driving a Harley with with a early model shovel head, then it shouldn't weep oil. I say pan gasket for starters

 

Per sitting through lots of oil manufacturers engineering talks high mileage oils have an additive in them that helps swell the seals and such to help prevent oil leaks. Also castrol high mileage oil uses a different tier base oil than their standard oil. There is a lot of science, engineering, chemistry, oil voodoo and wizardry in oils than what's on the surface. I am not sure of the effects of the additives on the FIPG then switching to regular again.

On a seal from hearing what I've heard from oil people it could happen on FIPG unsure that would be a question for those in the oil engineering business.

 

Guessing Crank Shaft Seal or the Timing Cover by the AC Compressor Bracket.

 

Also Rovers. They leak oil as a feature, when it stops leaking that's an indication it's time to add more.

 

I'm one of the naysayers but there is something we need to discuss and it's the idea of swelling rubber. FIPG is silicone RTV, which means Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone rubber. It's perhaps a different compound than the stiffer rubber (and is anyone else giggling now?) in other types of seals but it's still rubber. This is compared to the old butyl rubber, which also swelled.

Meaning it's subject to swelling from the esters they use for the purpose. Google ketones, esters, hydrocarbons and you'll find that chemically they cause silicone rubber to reversibly swell but do not damage the molecular structure of the rubber. Then do some further research and you'll find the types and concentrations of esters is part of what makes up each oil additive package.

They had to start adding esters to oil because as they improved the lubricants and manufacturers moved to silicone the seals lost their flexibility and ability to do their job with real tolerances in factories that aren't Ferrari. The old butyl rubber seals reacted with just any kind of oil. That's why 25 years ago switching to synthetic did cause marginal seals to shrink and leak. That was and is still basically true.

So the original premise isn't without merit. That's why I mentioned the test is to try the original oil and see if it stops. I was being sorta serious.

But I'm also of the opinion that relying on the swelling characteristics of an oil is a stop gap on the path to seal replacement. A failing seal isn't going to magically repair itself and eventually it can't swell enough to not leak. So the OP needs to torque pan bolts and prepare to drop the pan eventually.

 

I agree the additives are a stop gap for seal replacement. I use the high mileage for the other benefits and additives.

 

This is the worst click bait I've seen in a while. Spent 20 minutes reading through this thread that I'll never get back. No correlation between type of oil used and your unfortunate incident whatsoever.