Long Travel BS Thread

Yup ARB’s front and rear

 

Got any pictures of the frame mount for the upper link @89ztrain ? Thanks

 

The studs are the only thing that clamps the wheel to the hub. The hub diameter is only to make things easier to mount a wheel - as long as you are running conical style lug nuts into a tapered lug hole in your wheels of course like @Evenflow mentioned. On a steel wheel or any wheel that doesn't have centering holes meant for conical style lug nuts, the hub bore is a tool to keep the wheel centered until the lugs are tightened and then there is no mechanical use of the hub after that.

Clamping load is identical regardless if you have hub or lug centered wheels. The hub carries 0% of the wheel once the lugs are tightened. While I wouldn't discourage anyone from upgrading their studs, @TC yota said he has used his on his truck.

@J.Maynard if your studs broke off when you tried to remove the lug nuts, the tire shop must have overtorqued the heck out of them - enough to deform the threads. Most shops that don't torque things to spec probably just torque everything to 100 ft-lbs so I'm guessing they went higher than that.

 

Not at this time, unfortunately I’m away from the truck till March. Was talking with @Evenflow, gunna make sure the stock cross member is gusseted enough or simply replaced to handle the upper link

 

For the record I’ve had the guys at american/discount tire strip the lugs on my truck multiple times. Even had them pay for the replacement studs at one location, they will take an impact gun to your lugs tighten them and not give a shit if they’re cross threaded.

Still like those shops but I’ve ran into bad ones before.

 

Yeah, needs to be beefed up big time or replaced altogether. Those things fail, people have just been very quiet about it.

 

Yup, I PM'd him the minute I saw that photo and let him know what I ran into. We set mine up like @DMCtacoma 's and figured it would be fine based on the photos of him six fkn feet in the air...but my OE cross member tore and the frame also cracked where the tube brace we installed connected from that cross member over to the frame rail where the frames two layers overlap the inner layer cracked. Luckily mine developed a loud creaking sound before it completely failed so I found it just in time. We ended up completely boxing in the crossmember and welding the two layers of the frame together and beefing up where the tube gusset from cross member to frame connects. Sorry I can't find the pics I had if I do I will post them.

This seems to a recurrent them with my truck, the aftermarket parts never fail but the OE stuff in the equation always fails.

 

NM. I think someone was looking for one of these.

 

no idea why asking if shocks will rub on a stock axle keeps coming up...

 

is your tire rubbing on that left link? how much lateral sway does it have?

 

It looks like at drop the axle is pulled way to the right? Is that normal with that setup ?

 

Normal for a panhard bar setup like this. Everything should be cycled and adjusted so nothing hits though.

 

The axle will travel on a radius dictated by the length of the panhard bar, that is why a longer panhard bar and a properly located panhard bar are key. The longer the panhard bar the larger the radius of the arc which equates to less side to side movement.

 

Maybe because some don't really know, and this is the perfect thread to ask ? And can't exactly find a wider axle yet .

 

Whats your budget for an axle?

 

Prob around 400-450ish lol. Funds are tight after getting all the rear parts haha. But I've seen people get some solid deals

 

Keep on the lookout on ebay, i got one for right around $600 shipped. Maybe craigslist, but that never went anywhere for me. All the ones there were in pieces or bent.

 

For sure man! I'll be on the lookout thanks what gears did yours come with ?

 

i understand but it seems every week someone asks about it when its been answered multiple times in multiple threads. if you cant tell the 3" between the frame and tire on a stock axle isnt enough room for a shock then dont even bother imo. you can find a stock tundy axle for about 200$ at a pick n pull yard untouched. just gotta keep a look out