HELP ASAP side road break dwn! Transmission issue!

The coils packs should be fine, sometimes they go bad, but you should have a misfire code (check engine light on) if one or more of them wasn't working correctly.
Definitely check the connections and make sure your alt is charging correctly. This is an unusual problem, but anything mechanical can and will break. You could have a bad connection at one of the connectors on the ECM or under the dash. Electrical issues are hard to track down.

 

oh, this is gonna get good. *eats popcorn* (bets on OP not knowing his head from a battery terminal and one or both are loose)


OP, use the KISS method. Keep It Simple Stupid. Start with the easiest things first.

 

He says he's a diesel mechanic.

 

O man.... and the OP didnt think to look under the damn truck.... no wonder why i dont trust mechanics

 

I am dead set on an electrical issue .
Its not uncommon for a transmission to bang when all power to the transmission is lost .
Its not that common of a complaint because this issue doesnt usually occur at highway speeds

If he was at highway speed ( 55) , the converter was locked when he lost power to the SLU solenoid .
This would immediately disconnect the locking clutch abrubtly with zero modulation . You are really going to feel that in the drivers seat .
Too add , when the ecm loses all power , the default transmission gear is second gear .
This is also going to create one heck of a bang if he was in 4th or 5th
Now add anything computer controlled within the fuel management system like fuel injectors kicking out .....and you can see how this sudden loss of power can fool people into thinking their differential or transmission just fell out of the truck

Interested to hear what the OP finds ????

EDIT
Just noticed the truck has a 6 inch Fabtech lift as well as a 2 inch body lift and I am mentally visualizing what the various wiring harnesses look like

 

Hey donkey I already stated one of my terminals were loose. I garrentee you didn’t read from the beginning if u did then do things wrong. Do u no somthing more than I do please share.

 

Yea truck is skying but that’s a normal thing we’re I’m at. The wiring is all normal looks no different from my stock 2013. So I drove home just fine. I did tighten up the new terminal could that really have been my problem? But I’m geting full charge from the alt. No codes read on my scanner I’m at a lose to what that was. Anything I should check otherer than my trans fluid?

 

I was simply saying I’m not an idiot arnt forum to ask questions. Of corse I checked all the obvious things before even grabbing my phone. This isn’t help guys.

 

Don't worry man, time will tell if you still have an issue other than the loose cable end. All you can do is drive it and see if the problem comes back.

 

Do you think the battery terminal was loose enough to cause a loss of connection ?
From your original explanation in your first post , I think you are good to go .
Your post may help someone else . Its an uncommon complaint
Wouldnt hurt to check the fluid level

 

Well that was a shit show.

 

Yeah it was almost off. Looked like the battery mounting clamps came little loose and oval shaped the terminal, been doing a lot of bumpy off-roading to my job sites so think they vibrated loose. But with the alt still working would this cause that. I’m no good with electric issues that’s why I’m hear. Thanks to everyone who’s being helpful.

 

Again would that be the cause of that problem? If it is then maybe you can explain the supper low idle?

 

Shit show.

 

Low idle ? I didnt see where you posted that
If the battery is disconected for any reason , it takes a while for the ECM to reset your throttle position . Its called idle re-learn .
Very common complaint after guys clean their throttle body without removing the battery posts .
Stands to reason that if you lost power the ecm would have to re-learn

 

That great info I wouldn’t have guessed that. I checked the alt for charge n it was good wouldn’t the alt run the ecm?
First page one of the quoted messages,
Said it recently been dropping idle a few times a week hen goes back to normal. It’s idles at 500 when it does this. Also been taking a couple extra cranks to start n when it starts Rpms go up then drop low n go back to normal 900-800rpm.

 

Guess u didn’t no what gearcruncher did,
I’m happy I don’t have to tear out my trans.

 

when you get a chance , I would be checking all the grounds on your truck . What battery terminal was loose ?
Do you have a factory repair manual for your truck ?
It will show you all the hidden ground locations

I know what you are saying about the altenator .
Use to be able to remove the positive battery terminal with the truck running .
If the truck stalled , the altenator is no good .
Newer cars need the battery connected and in good health all the time as they have a higher electrical demand .

This post should assist you with any electrical questions you may have .
It will cover your 2007 as well as your 2013
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

 

Normal idle should be 750 ish at operating temp. 5-600 if you're in gear. A dirty throttle body can screw with your idle, my sisters chevy started idling up and down all the time, sometimes it would die when the a/c would kick on at idle. I cleaned the throttle body and it's been fine since. It has under 60k on it.

 

It almost sounds like you were in 4 wheel drive and it was binding as it came out of four wheel drive. If you ever switch out while making a turn in 4 wheel drive, it comes out with a bang. First time it happened to me, I was sure a new transfer case was in the near future.

This also happens when you have different sized tires on the front and back. Another long story that I'm not proud of.