How to change crank position sensor?

accidentally posted in wrong forum. Long story short my truck died. We figured out it will most likely be the crank position sensor. Anyone know how to replace this. With the new part I have on the way. 2017 Toyota Tacoma TRD off-road. Toyota is paying for it all. But I need a truck for Xmas. I can’t wait till Tuesday. But can anyone tell me where it is pic if possible and how to change it. Yes I’m a women but I comprehend shit lol so please guys help me

 

let toyota fix this, ask for a rental car.

 

This should help you:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-failure-in-2016s.442304/page-9#post-13606197

 

I'm sure you've received adequate information to be able to change out your CKP--this is Toyotaspeak for the Crank Position Sensor. BUT--what is it that happened that led you to incriminate a failed CKP, what were the symptoms, what codes showed up, and of course, I'm interested in knowing whether or not your issue is fixed once you do this parts replacement.
There is yet another version of the "upgraded" CKP, and the most current version does not have the circle with the hash marks, but has what looks like an equals sign instead of the circle/hashmark. I have to say though that whatever results, I hope that your problem is solved with this. When I replaced mine, I found it easy to get to on a cold engine with a 1/4" drive 10mm deep socket and 1/4 drive ratchet. I didn't have to remove any flaps, or pull off the passenger side wheel, it was all done from underneath the truck and did not take a lot of time at all. More problematic to figure out the electrical connector than anything else.

^^This^^ I found your (Tacolady00) thread you had posted in the Gen 2 subforum. I'm intrigued by how you note that Toyota has already verified this/told you the problem is the CKP? Honestly the run of bad sensors was on early produced 2016 models prior to a build date of something like Nov '15, and they issued a recall on like 32K of them. Build dates after that were made with the new upgraded CKP, and I haven't heard much in the way of verifiable situations where newer models that year or in the '17 model have had bad CKP sensors, but somehow, some '17 models are included in this recall despite the CKP being modified early in the 2016 model production run. And, the recall was supposedly for vehicles with a build date earlier than Nov 2015--so how would 2017 models be included?
Please tell more about your experience. Not sure at all about the low oil pressure light, many with Automatic models who experienced the failure of the CKP had high temperature warnings in the Auto tranny, but this had nothing to do with the CKP, and apparently were spurious warnings. Also when a CEL popped on the dash, the TRAC OFF light came on as well, also unrelated.

 

Ok. Well. I was going to replace it a few days ago. Toyota threw a temper tantrum and told me it had to get trailered to Toyota so they could do the work on it. Ok. So I put the old part back in and reconnected the battery. It did exactly what you said above Before I went to replace it. Traction control thing came on low oil light and transmission fluid all those came on. Now since I put it back together. They took it to Toyota. I do have a loaner but now since I reset the computer it isn’t doing the same shit again when driving it. I’m sure it will just take a bit of driving and it will do it again. Every single thing that you guys said it would do if it was that sensor happened. But now they say none of it is. I told them I refuse to leave the dealership with out that part being replaced. Apparently I am just lucky and got a shitty one in the first place. Only 4 thousand miles on my truck. What would cause it to stop doing it?? Just cuz battery off reset everything and it’s not all caught up yet?’ I know it will do it again it did it twice and I died on a highway the first time all power gone and second time thank god I was on a side street I will flip my shit if they do not replace that part any suggestions. Any help of any kind is greatly appreciated. This is my first time w a Tacoma and first time dealing w all this fancy sensor shit I’m used to old engines and what not. These I’m clueless on

 

Get a paper saying they will not replace it. Then if it cuts out on you driving and you hit something get rich!

 

This makes the most logical sense, however my '17 was built in Aug 16 and definitely had a bad sensor. My AFR were all over the place, idle was extremely rough in all conditions, and the truck was extremely unpredictable - like sometimes it seemed like the power steering pump wasn't even getting juice it was so underpowered then a bit later I would see fuel smoke coming out the back and see on my scanner that I was "cruising" around .88 lambda. Also, when idling I would watch the RPMs drop to almost nothing (just barely keeping from stalling) and then it miss when I gave it gas before it would eventually get going - this behavior was getting worse and I wasn't about to get stranded somewhere when it failed completely like some have. Out of desperation after many many trips to the dealer (who said my truck wasn't part of the recall) I figured I'd try this out - worse case, I'd lose $100 and a few minutes of my time. INSTANTLY after replacing this, it was like I had a different truck. At the time I wished I could have had my tech from the dealership sit in my truck and start it up pre-replacement, then after - night/day difference. But according to Toyota I am still not included on any recall and I made all of this up... ha

 

If you have the new sensor, just replace it yourself at this point, rather than arguing with the dealer. It's a 20 minute job, which includes removing the wheel, which is optional, but I found it to be helpful to have it out of the way. Remove the sensor from the block then remove the wiring connector. Attach the connector to the new sensor and reinstall in the engine block. One side effect of having a sensor fail is that it may have damaged the catalytic converter(s). If that happens, you can play dumb and let the dealer figure it out and deal with it, but to get your truck back on the road now with minimal headaches, just change out the sensor yourself. I sure as hell wouldn't trust the old sensor if it's already failed twice, as it will certainly fail again. Neither Toyota, nor your dealer, needs to know you changed it.

 

What a damn mess

 

Lesson learned should be to leave stuff alone, especially when in warranty.

Let them fulfill their obligation to fix the vehicle. Unfortunately you having your fingers in the pie has created some additional issues.

Hopefully it will all work out for you.

 

Let Toyota do the work. Toyota should provide a rental car.

 

Exactly part of the 3/36 plus the 2/24 Toyota Care. It's part of the new truck smell package good luck with your truck op hope it works out

 

Sounds like that is what she's trying to do, but the dealer won't fix it because the codes were cleared when she disconnected the battery, so the dealer is saying there's nothing to fix. So, unless she can convince them to fix it, she will have to drive it until it fails again. I, personally, would not do that. Since she already bought a new sensor and was planning on replacing it herself anyway, I'd put it in and be done with it.

 

Oh I will not drive the truck again until the sensor is replaced. I would never have fucked with my truck in the first place except it happened Christmas Eve and the general manager at Toyota told me. Well if you can fix it go for it if you need your truck I understand we will take the bill for the part and pay you for it. Well no one anywhere near me had the correct part I got one. But it was wrong Only the short shaft version of said part was available . So I had it taken apart and was told to disconnect battery so the service engine soon light could reset this was all via the tech at Toyota the gm had call me. And walk me thru it so I could have a truck for Xmas. But well then no part. So service manager dude called me Tuesday said well it’s warranty we need the truck so they brought me a truck and flat bedded mine to them. So I wasn’t just fucking around w my truck I was being walked thru what to do and had everything out and ready to go. But to take my truck I put it all back together again so they could do what they needed to do. So now I have to wait on what Toyota says is ok. I will not. Leave with out a new sensor either in my truck or in my hand for me to replace

 

Thank you BEER:30

 

Did you pull any OBD 2 codes with a code reader before you disconnected your battery? If so, what were your codes?

 

Never knew the codes would clear by disconnecting the battery. Isn't an OBDII reader needed to clear like other vehicles ?

 

I would think so, but I guess stranger things have happened.

 

This is just one of those things that happens. The dealer was not open over the holidays and you needed your truck. They tried to help you over the phone, but it just made things worse.

Your only option is to drive it until the sensor fails again. The dealer can't do anything without the diagnostic codes. Toyota won't reimburse the dealer for the work and the part without this documentation.

There really should be a "stickee" telling people that if you clear codes before you go to get dealer work done, it won't get done.

Edit: Most engine codes clear when the battery is disconnected on all OBDII vehicles.

 

The service engine soon light was on no I didn’t read any codes because I was blessed enuf to barely be able to limp it home in a snow storm and 3 degrees outside . So I didn’t have a code reader. I posted on here what all happened and literally everybody knew what the problem was immediately cuz they have all either had that exact thing happen or they know someone who has. So after like ten plus people telling me that was it I figured that was a good chance it was But no can’t read codes and didn’t read codes. Toyota ordered the part for me. But they are checking the fuel system now to see if thatbis ok. But no matter what I am getting that part replaced just to be safe. ThTs a good idea right?