Replacing rear parking brake cable

So I ran into a bit of trouble.. There is a bolt that holds my cable to the inside of my frame along my gas tank. To get to the bolt I may have to bend or fold over the enge of my gas tank would this be a big no no or acceptable

 

I'll be doing this soon too, now that I don't live somewhere that is mostly flat I think it would be a good idea to finally replace the parking brake cables... I've only looked quickly where all the bolts are. Is this the one that looks like it is located on top of the frame? What did you end up doing to get to all the bolts?

 

I didn't have to do that. It's a pain but it can be done. If it's just a seam and it's sticking out it will not hurt to bend it. I don't think I could get all the hardware back in but it's been working just fine for 2 years.

 

They make it so you can access the bolts with a long extension. They knew it would have to be replaced. Definitely get OEM for the E-brake cable. I just threw the Rockauto one away.

 

another quick question. I looked at disconnecting the cables to the drums a while ago and it looked like you have to take the drum off to disconnect the cable from the back of the rear brakes. is this correct?

 

no, you don't have to touch the pivots/levers that are on the back side of your drums (unless they're seized or broken). There's a pin on the end of the lever's arm that holds the brake cable. Just remove it and the cable will slide out

 

At what point would you decide a brake cable would need to be replaced? Mine seems to operate fine, though the rubber boots on it are looking haggard.

 

When it is seized or not operating properly

 

Mine is seized that's the only reason why I'm replacing mine and I actually haven't gotten to it yet bc I had to buy some 1/2" drive crows foot wrench heads to be able to get to a bolt along the inside of my frame I'll get back to you when I have finally replaced it and how it went!

 

What they said. Or when you were doing work on your axle and cut the spring mounts off and decided to move your truck and apply brakes causing your brake cable to wrap around your axle causing you to have to cut the cables to unfunk your situation.

 

I have never unbolted any of the old cables

Just cut them off at the points I could reach

Install new cable cable tie to the old cable and other points that would work .

I have done quite a few over the years

My first attempt being in the rust belt the easy to reach bolts snapped that was enough

 

cheapest price on OEM e brake cable?

 

ask @gunny1005

 

Depending on model 2010 pre-runner v6 range from 72.98-78.08

https://parts.toyotaofdallas.com/au...l-v6-gas-engine/brakes-cat/parking-brake-scat

I got mine for about $32 each on Rock Auto

 

The one coming off the handle 46410-3d010 $51.18
46420-35542 $95.51 is the rear cable.
I would have to order both of them.

 

usually its the bellcranks that are seized not the cable, with the parking brake released grab the bellcrank arm and see if it moves freely in and out if if not the crank is froze up with rust/gunk you can remove the drums and saturate the crank pivot point with WD40 and free it by pushing it in and out evently it will un freeze, then lube the pivot point with white lithium grease