Under Seat Subwoofer Club (USSC)

I think it would be a tricky fit. And personally I like as much cone area as I can get.

 

Ok, so should I consider a sealed alternative? I only want one sub in this enclosure on the drivers side.

 

Maybe. Sealed will require the least space.

 

If anyone is interested I found the TS parameters here for the Kicker.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/87132/Kicker-L7.html?page=32


Still getting my bearings with WinISD. It's a nice user friendly program. I have been using BassBox Pro 6 which does allow for passive radiator calcs. The BassBox UI is awful and the program is not user friendly but has lots of features.

 

The version of ISD I'm using (0.7.0.950) allows for PR calculations. It's the 2nd choice as you're selecting your drivers and alignment under >Create New Project

 

Keep in mind, chuffing takes into account a certain power level applied to the speaker. Most of the time, when the modeling software shows chuffing will occur near or at the subwoofer's RMS power level it will be VERY hard to hear over how loud the subwoofer is.

I can do a model in Unibox to compare results. Sometimes the difference in port length is due to stuffing vs no stuffing.

 

Just modeled the TS parameters. I used 0.85 as the enclosure size and 3" as the port diameter with one flared end. Port length for a 35hz tuning with an F3 of 29hz is 16.52" long. This takes into account the walls of the enclosure being covered with dampening. The sub should handle nearly 500watts RMS before running out of excursion/xmax. However......BIG however....the port noise will be VERY loud. You'll need two ports that are 3" to tame that noise as Rob said earlier. You could run a single 4" port too but at 30" long that's going to be impossible to fit and it will start to eat up enclosure volume extremely quickly.

All of that is exactly why I ended up going with a sealed design. I too would have preferred a ported design too but it's extremely hard to manage.

The graph below shows the port noise spike at 500watts. I tried 300watts and it's still terrible. Anything above the red line is audible.

 

Well well, I'm glad I consulted on this thread. Thanks to the both of you for helping me out. I will try and do some modeling with passive radiators and see if I can come up with anything worth while.

 

Passive radiators are the ultimate way to get low end response with small enclosures. I've not experimented with it myself but I've always looked at doing something.

 

I will definitely keep you informed on anything if it works out.

 

our powered sub has a passive rad and its pretty solid. There is a member here that should be able to comment on performance. It also fits under the front seat.

 

Your extreme vagueness is annoying.

 

well when connecting remotely and working off a cell phone with really crappy wifi thats about all i can do. Sorry to annoy you bud.

Anyhow, @kh7nm want to drop some feedback here ?

 

wow... I feel like I can hold my own in most threads pertaining to DC electrical systems, but you audio guys got me feeling like a noob lol

I'm piecing together some components for this install right now, i'm sure ill need to ask a question or two here soon

 

We are all here to help! I have been studying audio on and off since I was 16...half my life ago.

 

Thanks @sirkuttin, so fortunately/unfortunately I’ve got a buddy who works at Best Buy, so I can get employee pricing, which limits my options, especially for anything nice.

My original plan was to use two 44L7S8’s sealed and power them with alpine’s PDX-M12 but I don’t believe I’ll have enough room as one L7S8 requires a min 0.5 ft³ and max 0.75 ft³. So with @ItalynStylion’s most recent measurement of .85 ft³ total volume my heart broke…

So now I’m thinking of just going cheap and picking up two 43CWR84, the min vol is .4 ft³ on these so they should work great. I’ll still get the PDX-M12 amplifier so that I can upgrade the subs in the future but these should hopefully make me happy in the meantime plus It’ll give me a chance to play and learn more as I go.

So my main question is... with Best Buy as my oyster, is this what you guys would recommend? Employee pricing is about 30 to 40% off so it’s hard to pass that up.

 

Build thread coming soon! .60 cu ft fiberglass enclosure with two JL Audio W3V3 in the works.

 

Very nice! I like it with carpet more than I thought I would!

 

Why does it seem like almost every post I see from you is you trying to sell something to someone? This thread is discussing fully custom sub woofer solutions, yet here you are promoting a cheap, off-the-shelf amplified under-seat sub like you'd get at WalMart?

 

Looks good, I`ll have to try this at some point.