Dashcam Hardwire Install

Just got done hardwiring a dashcam in my 5 day old DCSBOR Taco. I did this in my last car but doing it in the Taco was a breeze. The A-pillar comes off super easier. My last car had several clips that have to be replaced.

I already had the dash-cam that I bought a few years ago. Works great so I didn't bother getting a new one. The original mount was the suction cup type. I was easily able to retrofit the dashcam mount to use the goPro mount that came with my Taco.

Finished Install

Wire all tucked into headliner running down the A-pillar to the fuse box. Very clean. The cam powers on automagically when I power the accessories in the Taco.



Misc Supplies/Tools

Aside from the camera and wire kit, I used zip ties, a 10mm socket and a plastic car trim pry tool. A flat head screw driver with some tape on will work just as well.

Camera

I used my old dashcam. I bought it in 2015 as a lightning deal on Amazon for about $60. It's worked well since. Don't think they sell this version any longer.

$58 ANYTEK 2.7 Full HD Car Camera Recorder Support 32G TF Dashboard Tachograph Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W36ERK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Hardwire Kit

I used a hardwire kit by Auto-Vox. Ordered from Amazon. I like this one because it already comes with the fuse-tap, all packaged nicely together. This is for a Mini-USB connector. They sell it in 3 different fuse types. The taco uses low-profile mini fuse type.

AUTO-VOX Dash Cam Hardwire Kit LowProfile Mini Fuse Adapter Car Charger Cable12.74 ft Compatible with OnDash V1/A118/M6/N2/G1W GPS Navigator Radar Detector and All Other Mini USB Port Devices

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P8ZVZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Run Wire to the goPro Mount

I removed the driver side A-pillar by popping off the bolt cover with a plastic car-trim tool. Then unscrewed the 10mm nut. The A-pillar then pops right out.



I then pulled the Auto-Vox cable up from the driver footwell up to the through the A-pillar, up along the windshield to the mount. Tucked it under the headliner along the windshield to the goPro mount. I zipped tied the cabe to the other wire harness running through A-pllar.



Tapping Into Power

Next, I removed the 30A fuse used by the wiper fluid. Inserted the fuse tap and then placed the 30A fuse I removed into the tap. I attached the ground wire to the bolt/nut of the fuse box.

I took up the wire slack and zip-tied the convertor and the extra wire behind the fuse box.

NOTE - the fuse box cover will not fit back on with the fuse-tap installed. No biggie. I put mine the glovebox for safe keeping.

NOTE 2 - Using the wiper fluid fuse only send power to the camera when you have the car on or on accessory mode. Alternatively, you can tap into a different fuse that has constant power if you want your dashcam to have power 24/7. Reference the fuse box cover to decide which fuse will work best.



Finishing Up

I then replaced the A-pillar cover back on and cleaned up. Process took me 35 minutes from soup to nuts. And about 10 minutes of that was looking for my needle nosed pliers to remove the damn fuse. Well worth it to not have wires hanging all over the place.

 

Nice job op

 

Did the armature for your old dashcam just match the gopro mount or did you have to find parts?

 

Looks great. Love that it’s hidden and not coming down the front window

 

It mounted to it but not exactly how it did in the suction cup mount. I just had to get a longer screw. Check the pics below to see how its mounted slightly different.

See in this pic how it's mounted:



Then how I mounted it to the goPro:

 

Nice job!

I just picked up a 2018 TRD Offroad on Saturday, after trading in my 1998 Tacoma 4x4. The old truck has a dash camera and now I feel naked and vulnerable without one in this new vehicle.
Thanks for the install instructions and links.

 

Nice. How did you get under the headliner? Did you have to remove the pillar plastic to gain access so you could run your wire?

Thanks,
joeslide

 

I removed the plastic trim piece on the driver side pillar to run the wire from the fuse box under steering column up to the headliner. The headliner, I used a trim pry tool to slightly pry it down enough to tuck the wire in. Do this a section at a time.

 

Thanks for the instructions! I did mine this afternoon. One more tip; it helped to use a stiff, thick wire as a leader to fish the smaller-gauge power lead down from the dash.

 

Cool beans. Ah yes. I used a small wood stake from my wife's orchids. Lol

 

Another option would be to tap into the 12v switched power right underneath the overhead console. A few others and I have done this with perfect results. A little more straight forward and a little less work. I used a t-splice solder method to tap into the power source.

Thread regarding this option here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-ignition-switched-power-pin-outs.512640/

 

I saw this thread. Definitely I viable option but I didn't want to splice into any of the existing wires.

 

Sorry for the additional questions. How is the headliner attached to the roof? Velco? Fasteners?

Thanks again,
joeslide

 

No worries on the questions. I'm happy I can contribute to others. This forum has helped me quite a bit.

I am not truly sure how the headliner is attached. I didn't have to remove the headliner for this install. You can pry it slightly open enough, at the edge along the windshield, to tuck the wire into it. I used one of these to do that. Very handy to have a set of these car trim tool sets for removing trim pieces for stuff like this. $6 on Amazon.

Use the tool to create a gap, tuck the wire in. Do a small section at a time.

$6 KLTECH 4Pcs Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits Thick Plastic Car Tools for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool with Paper Box

https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Pan...&qid=1514919875&sr=1-4&keywords=car+trim+tool

 

Nice job!

G.

 

Easy to tuck in the power under the headliner, like Akex said....then just tuck wire under A pillar plastic across the top, then go under the door weatherstrip all the way to the floor.....remove bottom plastic across door and the kickpanel... very easy....

If you go for the power from the overhead console, (switched) you will likely not have power ON with key OFF..... this is needed for Parking Mode..!

 

I just installed my A118-C dash camera in my '18 DCLB using the OP's method, it worked out great.

My '98 SR5 had the A118-C installed for quite some time. When I traded the SR5 in for the '18, I removed the camera with the idea to install it in the new truck.
Let me tell you, driving around without a dash cam, after having one for so long is a bit concerning.

Not wanting to wait on Amazon for the OP's fuse tap kit, I scrounged around my extensive electronics collection and found a DC/DC converter.
The CUI PYB10-Q24-S5 takes in 9 - 36 VDC and can output 5 VDC at 2amps.

A quick trip to O'Reilly's auto parts store for the rest.

All they had was the Littelfuse 'Add a Circuit' kit, it came with 4 fuses. Unfortunately, it did not use the Tacoma low-profile mini fuse type, so this limited me to choosing a circuit that matched the supplied fuse selection in the kit. I could not use the 30amp circuit the OP used because the Littelfuse kit did not have a 30 amp fuse.

I also picked up a trim removal tool kit. The wide tool really helped push the camera's power cable under the headliner.

Thanks anonymouscuban for your tutorial.

 

thanks for the detailed instructions!

 

Cool. Hope it helped. So much great info on this forum. Glad I can give back a little.

 

Great write up. Just got a Garmin 45 and the installation kit from the Dashcam store. Will try tomorrow.