Single (and Two) Piece Driveshaft = Vibes....BE GONE!!!

Also, I just realized the first post was not updated with my FINAL solution. I've updated the original post to include the solution for stock geared Tacomas and also the solution for Tacomas that have more aggressive gearing at the diff. Cheers!

 

May have missed it, but for those who have future plans is it better to just do your second recommendation from the get go? Care to share the cost of having the oem drive shaft modified with the cardon joint please!

 

Good question.
For most people (those that don't plan on re-gearing) the single piece drive shaft will be fine. I'd recommend the larger diameter shaft regardless. Just remember you may have to cut the cross member to allow for full compression of the rear suspension. I never confirmed this on mine since I didn't have it that long but others have cut theirs for that reason.

If you have ANY plans of regearing and or you need the maximum amount of clearance I'd strongly suggest going with the two piece shaft utilizing the double cardan joint behind the carrier bearing. I believe the custom shaft I had made utilizing my OEM shaft was $450. So that's pretty much labor and the DC joint.

 

Literally almost bought a whole new drive shaft for my truck $1300, then members of TTE suggested Tom Woods.
Are the dimentions you mention the same between the 2009 to 2011 Tacomas? Also, mine isn't a TRD, just a Base model 4x4 4 door short bed.

 

Yes, the dimensions will be the same as long as you too are a 4 door, short bed, with 4x4.

 

Double Cardan single piece driveshaft ordered, $479 with 3.5" diameter tube. I'll have it some time next week.

 

I have an automatic, is the driveshaft length the same? 2nd I noticed the Carrier Bearing has the two holes on the bottom, I just replaced mine with the one hole on the bottom, should I turn it over? Thanks.

 

I too have an automatic. So no difference. And good question about the carrier bearing. I don't know if there's a top or bottom. Seems flip-able.

 

Is the double cardan input joint necessary for stock ride height? Thanks again.

 

I wouldn't replace the shaft unless you were getting a double cardan in the shaft somewhere. Otherwise you aren't really upgrading anything that will prevent vibrations.

 

Thanks, I've been looking for a shop that could re-balance my 2 piece driveshaft on the vehicle to get rid of vibes, opposed to buying a 1 piece Tom Woods shaft. or is the double cardan a must have?

 

It’s not. But it helps.

What I’d do is talk with someone at Tom Woods and see what they think.

 

Thanks,
From their website: We have two options available. A conventional, 2 joint drive shaft or a double cardan (CV) drive shaft. As a general consensus, the conventional two joint seems to work well in most vehicles having up to 3" of lift. In vehicles with greater lifts, the double cardan seems to work best.
Type B drive shaft will start out at $329.00 and go to $439.00.

 

I've been vibration free for a few years now. Driveshafts, who needs 'em, right?

 

Now the task of convincing the wife this purchase is a necessity, not a want. Pray for me TW.

 

So my drive line shop, Front Range Driveline, figured out a way to keep the 26 spline mid ship section and add a double cardan joint after the carrier bearing!

We found that a Dana 300 transfer case yoke would work at the midship. So this means you don’t have to touch the front section of the shaft to get a double cardan joint.


I do have Dakar leafs, airbags, 3 degree shims, 4.56s, and auto

 

Let us know if it works to solve your vibrations.

 

Upto to 50 mph (fastest I go on my commute home) she is smoooooth. I probably had 12-15 complete stops with different take off throttle input and smooth

 

Ok I know where I’m going!!!
This take off vibe needs to go