ECGS Bushing - Is it a must?

It’s a 2nd gen thing also

 

It applies to all Tacomas...they use the same needle bearing.

 

From what I’ve read it’s been a problem since the 2nd gen and it’s carried over to the 3rd.

 

The needle bearing is where the shaft from the transfer case connects to the diff correct? Its not where the drivers axle connects to the diff?

 

Its the drivers side where the CV axle goes into the diff. If you pop off the CV Axle on the drivers side its right behind the oil seal. It is NOT a 30 minute job to change it. Youre talking several hours if you dont have the right tools and are inexperienced with removing & reinstalling wheel hubs/cv axles

 

Oh no kidding? Damn. Makes me rethink the whole scenario! I might as well take it apart this weekend. I thought it was where the transfer case connects to the diff and I didn’t want to split all that apart. Sweetness, I’ve changed out multiple CV shafts and CV shaft seals so I know how to get it apart. Now to learn something new!

 

Definitely not a 30 minute job even for an experienced guy.

 

Tell me about it. I didnt have a slide hammer strong enough to pull it. So I had to tie a rope onto one end of a sledge hammer and the other end on the CV, and took a couple swings facing away from my truck. Took multiple solid swings before it popped out. Had to get under there and pry it the rest of the way out too.

Its also super difficult to put it back in without a second helping hand, nobody thinks about re installation haha

 

What was your method to pop it out? From my previous experiences it’s just wiggling it’s way out till it decides to pop.

 

Gotta be careful with yanking them out! Last thing you wanna do split the bearings inside haha.

 

Youre gonna want to have several tools with you. Your truck might not be an issue cause its so new but it never hurts to have multiple options if something fails. You could rent a slide hammer with a puller attachment, or do the sledgehammer + rope trick that I did, or try prying it out with a big ass prybar. Or use a combination of them. All I know is mine was a massive pain in the ass, but also a much older truck

 

That method was actually recommended by a mechanic haha, The CV never popped out with the yank. Had to pry it the rest of the way out, the sledge just managed to get it un-stuck

 

I just drove it and it sounded fine, no odd vibration. My alignment tech was lazy as hell and I have bad camber so I have to go in and get that aligned. I wiggled the hell out of the CV shaft and it’s right as can be in the diff so at this point I’ll just keep an eye on it. Once I notice it becomes an issue I’ll go ahead and try to have Toyota replace it under warranty, but if all else fails I’ll know what to do.

 

I did my ECGS bushing on install of my 2in lift. There were a ton of people on here saying things like "wish I'd done it while I had everything a part"

Read enough of those and it convinced me to just do although it seemed crazy doing it on a part that was only 26k miles on it ..

Anyways. Stoked I did. Install was easy

 

I wouldnt bother if you arent having any vibrations to be honest. Its a pretty big headache if you arent already having issues. Some people never experience any problems at all, and theyre running way higher lifts than you. And the vibrations are usually very noticeable if they happen. So you can just fix it if it ever becomes a problem

 

I only did mine because I had to replace my axle oil seal, it was right there and ready to be done. Way too much work otherwise

 

I appreciate everyone’s insight to the situation. Set my mind at ease. I was over thinking it by a mile and almost regretting lifting it. Th repair sounds simple and straight forward, it’s just a matter of getting the parts apart

 

I was super anxious about it but I have no vibes after my lift.

 

Same boat. I had 10k in my truck before I lifted it too and everything is still in proper working order. The back is a little bouncy but that might be due to my E rated tires and having a block in the rear.

 

One quick question, anyone know the estimated cost at a shop? Did anyone try going that route before changing it? I’ve been told the ECGS part runs for about $95.