Long Travel BS Thread

Like a boss.

 

If it's fully rebuilt and I wouldn't be doing the person who got it from me wrong
Yeah I will sell it for the money towards a new rear end

If they only fix it "enough"
No
I'll sell it to a pull a part place

 

Question for first gen guys that have went fully long travel. What's all needed to swap a tundra rear end into our trucks. Ive read mixed reviews but I know that I need to re weld shock tabs and leaf spring perches. What else is needed brake line bolts right up? What about the emergency break?

 

Id still keep an LED bar. Round lights up there will destroy your power. I had some up there for a while and god damn it sucked to drive on the road.

Was epic amount of light though and sometimes I miss them.

Either way, the lower profile you can make anything up there the better.

 

What size rear coilovers are you guys using for your links?
I'm intending to keep my cage below the bed line as I avoid drawing toooo much attention while on the road

My fabricator is telling me 16"s
And (we'll call him the shock god)
Is telling me to use 14"s

Just looking for some input as I know short course link set ups are more uncommon

 

doubt you'll fit 16s under the bed line. Someone on here has a 3 link with trailing arms and has 14s that still pull over 20''. Jeff built it.

 

Who ever you are speak up cause im trying to pull 20" I need info!!

 

@Evenflow truck. And I was wrong. Was with 12'' CO and still gets 20''

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jta-metalworks-san-diego.382744/page-6#post-14362562

 

His truck is using pocket links
Short course links (at least the way erik intends to do it) put the coilover on the axel and the "trailing arms" are only tube steel

 

lol good luck then with even 14s.

 

The grey kibbetech truck is running 3x18" on that short course set up

Fuck I hate math

 

Personally I dont mind if they stick over the bed sides my self but I guess that would put me out from being able to use the dmz or giant bolt in cages??

 

DMZ kit and cage comes level to the top of the bed. 17" of travel or 34" flex to stuff if we are going by that measurement

 

With the DMZ and Giant kits, you are limited to only so much by having a leaf LT rear. With that being said for the DMZ and giant kits, there is little advantage to having 18s above the bedsides vs 16s as you wont really pull anymore travel than 17 inches. I know that DTF makes a leaf kit that will cycle 18", but will also be above the bedsides. Link and their design is a completely different beast.

 

If you can do it the traditional links are much better. I did a ton of research before I linked mine and wanted to short course link but the problem with shocks on the axle is its hard to find a spring rate low enough. You can make it work but it ends up over sprung and choppy in small stutter bumps and square edge bumps. This is a spring rate calculator and plug in some numbers and you will be amazed. For (C) and (D) you want the same length because you are mounting the shock on the axle for short course links, something like 48" for both. You would have to lean the shocks all the way to a 45* angle (B) to get anywhere near an acceptable spring rate, at 10* you need something like a 100lb spring, which they do not make for a 16" shock. Then try normal link numbers like 48" for (C) and 26" for (D) and spring jumps up to around 350lbs, a much more manageable number

http://www.crawlpedia.com/spring_rate_calculator.htm

 

Thats sick!!

 

Thanks. Just got to figure out what you want the truck to do, your budget, and then up your budget and go one or two steps further. That'll keep you happy for a few years before you decide to buy a dd, trailer, and go full blown race truck

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/zam15s-adventure-rally-build.261628/page-14#post-15945280