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Could you maybe take a small generator camping instead?

 

They sell battery low voltage disconnects. We use em in our work trucks for lights and radios.
Shuts everything off when battery drops below a certain voltage so you can still start the vehicle

 

A low voltage cut off will run about as much as a small 2nd battery.
$105 low voltage cut-off - https://www.batterystuff.com/battery-products/switches/prioritystart-12v-promax-psi-12v-promax.html

$87 35ah battery - https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/SLADC12=35J

 

But.... battery has a finite life span. Disconnect should last long time. Just saying... both are a good option

 

I think you could install a battery box in the bed and use the wiring from the tow wiring to charge it. My RV trailer has dual deep cell batteries that get charged when I'm towing. If the 3rd gen is like the 2nd it's won't matter if you have the tow kit. The wiring was/is factory installed while the tow kit is port installed. A motorcycle battery would probably fit in the cubby in the bed pretty easy to keep the wiring close.

Edit - When the ignition is off you are isolated from the main battery

 

Check galls.com for the battery cut off.should be cheaper.

 

Electronics-Salon 1PCS Low Voltage Disconnect Module LVD, 12V 10A, Protect/Prolong Battery Life.

$15 CZH-LABS Electronics-Salon 1PCS Low Voltage Disconnect Module LVD, 12V 10A, Protect/Prolong Battery Life

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019F3BEIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PodwAb1AWAJ0S

Why not something like this? And if need more amp rating use a relay

 

Depends where you shop. Ebay for welding cable, Walmart or eBay for a battery box, and shop around(not the big fancy Overland dual battery kits) for an automatic charge relay.

A 2nd battery will run your accessories a lot longer than a battery low voltage cut off. A duralast gold 27f has a reserve of 165min(cant find amp/hour rating), a Northstar 27f has a reserve of 195min (92ah), but those capacities are until they are fully discharged. Think how long it would take for you to reach the 11.7 volt cut off.

 

Better price point for OPs usage.

The only downfall being runtime. Think how long it would take for you to reach the 10 volt cut off.

 

Yea, 10v is to low.. maybe something like this, looks like ya can adjusts the set point

$46 Low Voltage Disconnect with recessed selector, 12V/24V Auto Detect, GPC-1005B-R

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147DYUN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SqdwAbSM3QBBM

 

You can get the 7blade plug as a replacement end and make you own wires into the cubby

 

etrailer.com or the like should have something. As I remember there is a connector down there you can order from Toyota and just cut off the other end. Others have soldered into the existing.

 

CURT 58140 Trailer-Side 7-Pin RV Blade Wiring Harness Connector

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EOWPOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cDdwAbTF5WK7J

Any local auto part store should have this on the shelf. Just add the leingth of wire you need to make it to the cubby. This way you don’t have to cut up any factory wiring.

 

No, this plugs in like a normal trailer wound. I’m assuming you wound not want this plugged in all the time. So you could roll up the wire and store it all in the cubby till you need it and just plug it in.

If you want to plug it all in behind the bumper you’d proably have to get the specific plug from a dealer. It wound be replacing the bumper plug. And wound not allow the plug in bumper to work until you switch the plugs. Coins be costly depending on what dealer cost is

Alternative wound be to tap into or solder in on the wire before the plug at bumper and run wire over. Just needs to make sure it well taped/sealed up so it dosent corrode.

 

[QUOTE="...Edit - When the ignition is off you are isolated from the main battery[/QUOTE]

Good conversation OP, thanks for your post! It sounds like a great idea to use a harness plug as a temporary power source for charging an auxiliary battery in the bed- but I wanted verification on this- when the ignition is off, all power is cut off at the trailer harness? I was told by a trailer salesman that the truck battery could still be drained if the trailer was connected. Misinformation, or maybe only true for domestic trucks? Anyways, thanks for helping me with my power project!

 

That whole factor plug setup is available aftermarket thru one of the trailer wiring companys curt or ??? I know as I installed one on my SR bumper.

edit: POLLAK is the brand. Also sold under Hopkins https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Hopkins/HM40975.html you can get the harness also separate.

 

Buy an aftermarket jumper battery that charges from accessory port.

 

Get devices (fan, led lights) with USB power supplies and use a backup battery power supply, a 20k MaH will run lights and a small fan through the evening and charge your phone too. I have the Anker 20100 MaH, as well as a 8k that doubles as a jumper pack and these work great.
This string is 40ft long and ran all night with most of the battery life left.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWPSCQ...2W&pd_rd_r=WS41NCF379RAZHRH0S5Y&pd_rd_w=vWqc7

Fan
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075278Y3...Uw&pd_rd_r=WNVY2AHT05X5PH17YHB1&pd_rd_w=gsua1

 

These are also awesome for daytime charging of battery and accessories with the appropriate controller.