May need a leaf pack?

Well I went into the shop that did my lift and alignment because the ride was a bit bouncy in the rear. They balanced the tires and it did improve but still getting a slight bouncy ride. They told me it’ll have to do with with the lift and the tires being E load and 10 ply and what not. Looked at the rear, and I think may have found the culprit. Would anyone suggest needing a leaf pack at this point? If so which one? I want it to only be lifted about 1” in the rear as I lifted the front by 1” and want to maintain rake.

 

Weird angle pic. Try to take it level from the side.

I installed a 1.5 inch block in the rear of mine and i noticed it got a lot more bouncy over bumps. Also when I load it up, my leafs do a similar thing where they flex so much the block in the middle is above both sides of the leaf flexing super hard.

Mine sitting on semi level ground.

 

From what I’ve read the leaf on the bottom (overload) isn’t supposed to be like that. And moreso without an unloaded bed. I may look into a leaf pack because it’s pretty bouncy in the rear on rough roads. Rides just fine on the freeway considering the larger tires and lift.

 

My overload looks the same. FYI I am an amateur here. But my understanding is when you add a block, you're just raising the center of the leaf pack, so your just putting the center of stress in the middle.

When you add a leaf, you spread the stress over a whole leaf pack raising the rear equally and depending on what leaf you use, stiffening the ride.

 

Tried to take some better shots, it just looks a little weird more than anything and I was reading once your overload leaf starts bending like that the pack will be prone to failure.

 

Installers left your U-bolts too long. They'll snag badly on stuff. Best to cut them off basically flush with the bolt.

 

The minimal distance from the overload to the next spring is pretty common, and is often the most common complaint. Yes it does lead towards a quick jolting ride when unloaded. However, when loaded it does prevent squat.

Do you often carry much of a load? If yes, then removing the block and replacing with an add-a-leaf may be a good option. Longer leafs ride better, FYI.
If don't often haul, and you're looking for a good ride, then a 3 leaf progressive pack with the overload spring removed is a good option.

 

So put the stock ones back one? These ubolts care with the block I ordered.

 

Is what I have now fine? I was reading the block may put the leaf pack in risk of failure sooner than later.

 

No. The threaded portion beyond the bolts should simply be cut off after they've been torqued. Pretty standard on lifts since most of the time the U bolts are made long for multiple applications. Cut off what's left over--Die Grinder, Angle grinder w cut-off wheel, etc. Kinda sad the installer didn't already do that.

 

Yeah who ever installed it either did it quickly and forgot or didn't think to do it. That's pretty bad.

 

Yes a 1" block is safe...hell I have a 4" block with my lift kit!!!
It's not the "proper" way depending upon who's opinion you're obtaining, but it works. For what it's worth, I'm seeking a smaller block and progressive leaf pack myself.

 

Roger. Looks like I’ll take the grinder to it this weekend. Is there any cons of it being that long? Or just cut it if you don’t need it type of deal?

Also update on the bouncy ride. Rides a lot smoother after taking it, I guess the tires needed balancing and they also aired them down a bit from 40 to 33.

 

Ummmm yeah PSI plays a huge part. 31 cold on my 35/12.5/18s.

 

Hey rusty what do you have installed up front?

 

I’ll have a 2” block for sale once I get my new aal in.

 

Tempting but I need around 2.5” to make up the 4” since most lead packs are claiming around 1.5” of lift.

 

Drawbacks? Well, they tend to snag on stuff, like when you're offroading, and they can hang up/drag stuff. Additionally will bend, so then you will not be able to remove the nuts if you need to, you'd have to cut the U bolts. Besides, it just lacks the look of a pro installer, just a sign of not paying attention to detail, etc.

 

Alrighty no problem

 

So you have a lift block, right? That exaggerates axle wrap and increases wear on that portion of the spring.

Ideally, a spring, should have only enough rate and geometry to support the intended weight at the desired ride height. This eliminates the spring out of the equation, leaving the shocks to control all the dampening. This requires a serious upgrade in shocks; something you can have valved to your need. More so, when you add additional unsprung weight in the way of heavier wheels and tires.

Rarely are off-shelf a one size fits all; if ever. The best person to weigh compromise and need, is you.

I'm only going on about all this, because ride comfort seems to be a factor for you.

Considering your 1" lift requirement, I would suggest the following.
-If you 'never' haul cargo; Deavers.
-If you've added weight, but 'never' haul cargo; get a custom set made or the ICON RXT that has a level of adjustability.
Even then, these are somewhat a compromise in ride heght and/or spring rate. Anything else is too much of a compromise in ride height and spring rate, if comfort is a major factor.

If you haven't seen this video, I suggest watching it.