Loud Clicking/Clacking/Pinging from A340F Bellhousing [UPDATE: TRUCK IS DEAD]

The A340E one would work?

 

Yah

 

That works too.

If my A340F ends up being bad I might just have the output shaft from the F swapped into the E.

 

Damn, don't beat yourself up over it. Remember what I said, we all hit that learning curve.

 

This sucks, man. Hope everything works out for you in the end.

 

Dude I'm so sorry to hear this news. I was in the same thought process as gear cruncher. This was a shield rubbing. Maybe the torque convertor pulled up crooked and was wobbling..

 

DUDE WHAT. This was supposed to convince me to do mine. This sucks

 

I was impatient and started driving it without a rear driveshaft in 4HI to get around town, that may have been the reason why everything imploded in on itself. Maybe I seated the torque converter wrong or the the flexplate wrong. Who knows.

Don't let this discourage you, tons of people have done this no issue.

 

@gearcruncher Just want to confirm, will my old 1998 A340E Torque Converter work on my 1999 A340F?

Might as well change the other one just to be safe.

 

converters are a matched set .
they mate with the trans they came with only

 

So the E and F are not interchangeable?
Is it in the stall speeds and vanes in the converter itself? Kinda of like using an small blockV8 GM400 trans converter behind a 7.2V8 with a GM400 trans??

 

I cant answer your question without going through a bunch of paperwork as well as repair manuals , but I can tell you that once a torque converter is used on the front of a transmission , it must remain with that transmission .
If a planetary gear fails inside the transmission and a bunch of steel travels through the fluid , the steel also contaminates the converter that was matched to the transmission . I use to send these contaminated converters back to the converter supplier and grab an overhauled converter.

In order to determine if the other converter would work , we look at stall speed , spline count , pilot hub depth ,and most importantly how the converter clutch is applied and what type of coating the lock up clutch lining uses .
With this said , I have always purchased an overhauled converter to mate with the overhauled transmiission .
Your best bet is calling around to a few converter shops to see if the part number for the converters are the same between the two transmissions if you are trying to save a few bucks . I beleive they sell for about $250 with a core and you do have the option of requesting different stall speeds as well as different lock up clutch friction material when purchasing an overhauled unit

 

Hm, Reminds me of these guys

http://www.jmousa.com/us/flash/frame/index.html

 

Do you think my old one is okay?

 

I used the TC out of my E on the F after converting with zero issues. Pulled them out of the trans and they are identical.

 

Do me a favor OP, get a magnefine filter.


I started noticing as I drive my tacoma more that the shifts start to not bang so much although I suspect the mounts were never changed. Either way those filters are beast because I had them before on another car. Fluids were also changed out with fresh factory fluid going in and a new filter inside the pan too.

I have one on my sisters integra thats still running on the same transmission going +250k miles so far and the only thing done was a drain and fill every 20k miles. That same integra was handed down to my baby sister as her first car last yr and everything but the transmission has been replaced. Still running after a yr and I kinda expect it to keep on truckin.

 

Is that an in line filter? Huh. Before I put this new tranny in I changed out the original one for an OEM strainer.

 

yes, inline filter. add it before it hits the radiator or after. I put them before so no clogging issues.

 

He is right, it is good advice. I put one in on the last two I've done and they always catch stuff you didn't even think would be there.

 

Crossposted from the 1st Gen BS thread:

HUGE update on why the hell my truck is still sitting in a shop's backlot broken.

Let me start from the beginning. About two weeks ago I had just finished my 4WD conversion, but lacked a rear driveshaft so I was driving the truck around in 4WD/4HI FWD with the front driveshaft delivering power instead of the rear in a traditional Tacoma. I drove it for two days and I noticed this strange 'pinging' or loud screeching was coming from the bellhousing. I ignored it after asking on here and was told it was the flexplate just rubbing on the inspection plates. Ignoring that sound was the biggest mistake I have ever made. After I got my answer, I decided to check it when I got home and hopefully fix it.

I never made it home.

On day 3 I was driving at about 40 MPH when I noticed the noise went away, and suddenly the RPM's absolutely SKYROCKETED every couple seconds, followed by the worst noise I have ever heard in my life. It was a combination of grinding, screeching, and metal clanging as I noticed I was losing each of my four gears one by one. Once I lost first gear, I barely made it into a parking lot. I tried to start it to drive it onto the tow truck, but the starter just made grinding noises.

I bring it into the transmission shop and they tell me the flexplate/flywheel is cracked. I order a new one and they replace it - a week passes and they call me to let me know it's ready. Yesterday, Wednesday morning I went to go pick up the truck. I pulled it out of the shop and immediately noticed how badly the transmission was shifting with sudden jerking, high idle, and surprise surprise, the same pinging noise signaling ANOTHER broken flexplate. I parked it a block away from the shop and gave the keys to the tech who fixed it to test drive it. He said a mixture of profanities while driving it noting the symptoms I told him. The next morning, the shop's owner calls me back and let's me know what the hell happened. He confirmed my suspicions, the brand new Flexplate broke AGAIN. You guys will never guess what was causing it.

The torque converter mating surface was warped, specifically where the flexplate mounts to the torque converter. He told me he measured everything the AISIN manual gives a specification for, within reason, and told me all of the mounting pads were out of position and uneven. One was higher than the other. When the flexplate was torqued to spec, the uneven surface of the TC caused a lot of stress on the mating hub causing it to crack. I knew it was suspicious my original flexplate of 95,285 miles failed out of nowhere.

The owner was really nice about it, he ate the cost of a new flexplate and an additional transmission R&I. They're putting my A340E torque converter on to replace the A340F, even though the stall speed is different (200 RPM). Hopefully that solves the problem.

And that's my story. I could've sworn I did something wrong installing everything, but I did everything correctly. It's just a freak accident that the torque converter mating surface was warped, how often does that happen? General consensus says the truck the transmission originally came from was in a bad front end collision and it caused the torque converter to bend and warp like it did.

Lesson learned. Even though something as small as measuring the runout of your torque converter mating surface, it caused an expensive and stressful situation.

@gearcruncher