Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

The Australian Direct KickAss setup is what I will be installing. Easily the best/most informative video out there & the Setup is very straight forward.

 

there's only a difference of 6.6 pounds compared from 53.2lbs to 59.8lbs. At least based on the YellowTop optimas.
I'm very surprised it'll crack under just a little more weight. Has anyone ever made some reinforcement using the fender wall as well? I think that when installing these large batteries should do the trick, however it's just a guess. Really can't know as I'm just wondering if anyone has reinforced using a fender on any of these setups.

 

oge is now juniper overland. maybe they still use the oge website for selling product though

 

Even the stock battery is too heavy for the sheet metal up front, IF you wheel hard. Look in the LT threads-their core supports are thrashed. Coupled with dual or heavy AGM batteries will make it stress fracture faster. The popular Diehard 31M batteries everyone is using are #75 so way heavier then a stock battery.

Edit: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...river-side-wheel-well-not-the-battery.484715/

 

That is a nice all in one set up for sure!

 

Even after I relocated the battery the sheet metal has continued to degrade and rapidly. Gonna pull off the front bumper tomorrow and try to make some repairs.

 

Do you have the stock support bushings or have you replaced them with the polyurethane ones?

 

Replaced them quite a while ago. I think the passenger side cracks grew by at least 1/2" during my last trip.

 

To clear that up a little, Off-Grid Engineering partnered with Rocky Mountain Four Wheel Campers to start Juniper Overland.

Juniper Overland is a full-service off-road specialty shop serving the Denver area. They offer everything from installing lights and tents to full blown expedition builds.

Soo Off-Grid Engineering is now more of a product line carried buy Juniper Overland, if that makes sense.

 

Honestly I think the deflection of the stock bushings is transferring less to the sheet metal. I have no clue - just a theory. 200000million pages of threads on that though. @tetten did you swap body mounts too?

 

Yeah, I swapped those out after the core supports.

 

What group size of Yellow top do you have? What is the CCA of your battery?

 

Anyone have parts lists for their set ups? I plan on doing a dual battery but my second battery will be strictly for accessories. So my main battery will function like the stock was intended and then I’ll run my fuse blocks off the second battery. Plan on doing closed cell behind the rear driver seat.

 

Are you wanting to be able to start the truck? Yes, ml-acr ; no, a continuous duty solenoid.

I used temco products all from eBay.

 

No. It will start from the main battery. I just want to take the load from the accessories off.

 

Ok, so a continuous duty solenoid( there is a cole hersee one below)or the blue sea ml-si I think is the name; and 2 or 4 gauge wire then a blue sea fuse box.
And a protector for the wire, like tech flex or split loom, to add protection from shorting out. Put circuit breakers at both ends of wire and gromets when passing through sheet metal

 

I plan on running the wire under the carpet or along the door jams to make it look neat. I already have the fuse box I’m currently running. Thanks for the help

 

Anybody with the duel battery running Blue sea ml-arc ? Think I am having issues. My ml acr is blinking twice not sure what this is indicating.

 

Is it a repeating two blinks then pause? That usually means you put the ML-ACR in manual override.

 

yea it is set this way ^