SMKYTXN'S 2011 DCFBFTMFW Solid Axle Swap

Did you completely get rid of the ABS module or does the braking system still run through it?

 

I had a similar problem with the LandCruiser and had to get it to a shop with a pressure bleeder and that sorted it out. I imagine that would cost less than a new master and fluid.

 

Are you bleeding from the calipers or off the master?

 

Subd......cause why not spend a bunch of money on more truck parts.

 

The ABS module is completely gone. I'm running straight from the MC to the calipers.

I'm using a power "pressure" bleeder.

I'm pressurizing the master and bleeding at the calipers in the correct sequence.

 

Sounds like you’ve gotten rid of most of the places for air to hide. What kind of booster are you running?

Have you tried bleeding it the old school way with two people? That will tell you straight away whether the master is moving fluid like it should. Typically a bad master will either not move fluid or it will manifest itself as a slowly sinking pedal because it’s got a slow pressure leak

 

I'm running the stock master which used to lead to the ABS pump. Yes, I've tried the manual bleeding with my buddy in the seat. The mc moves fluid just fine.

 

Are all of the bleeder screws on the top of the calipers. I have seen people mount calipers on the wrong side and the bleeder screw be on the bottom thus trapping air. It sounds like you have air still in the system or do not have a complete seal somewhere that is sucking air into the system.

I would start at the master cycl. break one line loose at a time and have someone slowly depress the pedal then tighten that line. Do that several times so that there is a steady stream coming from the line. Then go to each connection that you have and repeat until you are at the bleeders for the calipers. At the calipers use either the pressure bleeder or the 2 man method but this time pumping the pedal up. Once a system is completely dry it can be a bear to get all the air out. I have never had the greatest luck from a pressure or vacuum bleeder on a dry system.

Hope that makes sense.

 

I got nothing for you besides there is either still air in the system or the MC is too small for the big brakes and can’t move enough fluid through it’s stroke

 

I don't think the 1/2 ton chevy brakes have as much "surface area" as the stock tocama's do to make a difference on MC size.

That does bring up a good point if you are running rear discs then you should get rid of the stock proportioning valve and replace it with an adjustable one. Most stock proportioning valves for rear drum vehicles hold a small amt of residual pressure to the rear brakes which is no good in a 4 wheel disc application.

 

Yup, all of the bleeders are pointing up.

The thing I don't understand is the amount of clear fluid that comes out every time I crack the bleeders. I have one line for the front and one for the rear. They drop straight to the axle and then T out to the calipers. I wonder if cracking both front or both rear bleeders at the same time would do anything.

Yup, I'm at a loss.

The ABS system took care of the whole proportioning thing, so there isn't a proportioning valve.

Now what I don't have is a booster or master designed for dual discs. So to eliminate that down the road I've ordered up a booster and master from an 08 Tundra with the 5.7. The booster is smaller in diameter, but the ports coming out of the master are on the wrong side. So I'll have some work to do to get it in, but that will at least take the MC and booster out of the equation. I doubt I'll get them in before I leave for KOH, but I have enough brakes to not die on that trip. lol

 

A+

 

Dang. I have a spare booster from a Tundra, that I'd be happy to sell. Much cheaper than you paid. Wonder if it'd work?

 

What year and motor? Dual diaphragm?

 

I will take a picture.

 

Booster matters less as long as it provides enough assist for the system you are fine. Master matters more and really it's sizing the master to move the needed amt of fluid for the total surface areas of the pistons within the system.

Wait you dropped from 2 designated lines for the front and rear down to one each? That may be your problem. But no you shouldn't have to open both bleeders but it's worth a try. How many line taps are on your current master cylinder? If there are more than 2 then you need to utilize them all and have them going to the correct wheel. Also I would put a proportioning valve (adjustable) going to the rears to adjust the bias towards the front brakes.

 

single line may not be able to feed enough fluid to two brakes?

you could probably verify quickly by just plugging one end of each set and testing the brake pedal for 2 brakes only, one front and one rear.

 

I let my master cylinder run almost dry (it was below the reservoir) when I had a failed rear brake line. Bled and bled with clear liquid through an 8ft hose to be sure. Ended up on TW/google and found that air was behind the plunger/piston of the master cylinder and should be towed to a dealer. Eff that. Look up "bench bleed" of the master cylinder. In my research I saw no need to remove it from the truck as the only part of "bench bleed" was the nose-high angle of the master cylinder while you performed the bleed. On your bench. Bench not needed, DYF FTMFW

/Truck is looking AWESOME.

//Slipping back into stalking mode

///Be ordering passenger mirror glass again soon.

 

I loaded up the taco and drug her into town for a bit of work. The exhaust shop I've used twice before for Smokey did a great job at stuffing the exhaust in there. She's still a little louder than I want, but I'm out of room for more muffler. After the exhaust I had the ac lines I had to remove remade where they wouldn't interfere with the suspension or get chopped up by the fan.

After all of that I headed out to @Torspd 's place. Turns out he had the exact booster and mc I was looking for, one out of a 5.7L Tundra. I'm going to do my damndest to get that sucker installed tomorrow. Thanks buddy!

 

I may have missed it but do you have headers or stock manifolds