Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

What fluid do you run in the system? I run the amsoil tractor fluid stuff and mine pretty much never makes noise.

 

YOu have some big ass tires so I bet it gets really hot without much effort

I've been a bit dissapointed with that issue. Reading a lot, talking to a lot of people. Been through all the trouble shooting also: (Bled, re-bled, reservoir mounted higher than pump, no hoses bent, right angle fittings, cooler mounted correctly, etc.)

Some say these PSC pumps are never 100% quiet no matter what. PSC says otherwise. I'm just learning to live with it. Don't get me wrong, it works well. Steering is super responsive, no fading whatsoever. It's just the annoying noise that comes from the pump from time to time.

 

fluid is a big deal as are coolers. I run Amsoil PS fluid and it stays clean and cools faster than other fluid.

It's not horrible only time it gets hot is when i forget the front locker in and make a few miles down trail. on a side note PSC pumps are hit and miss i got a bad one out of the box that they would not warranty or stand behind i was forced to buy a new one out of pocket and if i need another pump i will be talking the boys at HOWE.

 

Ahhh, good to know. I will need to try that next. Started with GM power steering fluid, which was recommended. Now have Lucas power steering fluid, which was recommended as well. No difference between those two seems like.

 

Yup been the same noise since day one, Amsoil Tractor fluid, 10" aluminum fin cooler. Does quiet a ton above 1100rpm (this clip was at factory idle ~700ish?)
As long as it turns and no cavitation, good to go ha

 

Got an issue with the nut that holds the bolt of the upper link (frame side). It is a nylock btw, but it keeps getting loose after trail runs. The actual bolt is in all the way and super tight, but it makes me nervous wheeling.

What is the easiest/fastest to release tension from the upper link to make quick adjustments, especially on a trail or at camp? Upper link has a tremendous amount of load in it. It's a bitch to deal with.

Also have big ass 15/16" bolts in my upper link. Lower link bolts are 1-1/8" Bit overkill but wanted a bit extra insurance. They are all grade 8 of course.

 

Picking up a new axle Saturday...can’t wait.

 

But that's just a wittle baby axle

 

Superduty axle. Is not little by any means lol

 

Rockwell's or nothing

 

I mean sure I guess. Wonder why rock bouncers don’t go 2.5 ton if there is nothing

 

Lol

 

I hate anything that has Rockwell's lol

 

I’m not a huge fan of working on my SD axles. In fact I’m not a huge fan of working on the SD period...every bolt and nut has some absurd torque spec of like 450 ft-lbs!

....Meanwhile the Tacoma requires an inch-lb torque wrench for most things.

 

Well it’s a big difference between hauling 4,000lbs (or what ever the taco tow rating is) and 30,000lbs haha

 

because 2.5 ton rockwells are heavy and impossible to build a low rider with. also the rock bouncers don't weigh shit so it's hard to get enough traction to break fully built 60's. Your fat second gen with a crawl box and lots of traction will have much better luck breaking a SD60

 

I know why was being a smart ass. It’s too bulky of a axle. Putting super 60 shafts in mine to help with strength.

 

What’s been a pain in the ass? Starting my axle build this year going all spicer ball joints and seals

 

The challenging part with the D60s including SD axles are their weight. They are just so fucking heavy. Worth it though.

 

Nothing is impossible with a big ass impact. There is no way I could have done the balljoints and seals without my 1/2” Dewalt. Plus a sledgehammer for knocking the knuckles off. I knocked out both sides in about 4 hours including making a seal driver out of some plumbing

Pretty much this. Everything is just scaled up a ton so it requires more brute force.