Slack in timing belt??

I am trying to determine if there should be a small amount of slack in the timing belt. I would think not, but the truck seems to run very well. I pulled the top plastic cover to inspect the belt as I have never taken a peek at it before. I was surprised to see that there was some slack in the belt. I could even turn the top idler pulley by hand, that is how much slack I have in it.

Truck just turned 200k miles and t-belt was replaced by local dealer at 120k per the sticker under hood and receipts I got when purchased.

Is this normal? Should I be looking at doing a T-belt job ASAP?

Thanks

 

it isnt that difficult to do if you have the time and the tools... generally*, 90k for belt replacement.
* means differernt motors might have issues. Some timing belt motors have valve/piston interferance issues when the belt breaks. The 3.4 / 5VZ is a non interferance motor unless you are at redline when it goes...
Lots of videos on how to do the job.

 

Is you tension idle pulley stuck? It should be taking up the slack.
A picture would help if you can.

 

Yeah, I am figuring something went bad with the tensioner. With the top cover removed, its kind of hard to tell and you cant get a good look at the tensioner its self. I will take another look today since it sounds like this is not normal, which I suspected. I was planning to do the timing belt job myself in the future, just didn't think I would have to do it for 10k-20k miles. Was hoping I could wait until it warms up....guess not.

 

Update and more confusion. So I pulled the plastic cover after driving the truck around and being fully warmed up. The belt was nice and tight, no slack and couldn't turn the idler pulley. Last time I checked it cold and after sitting overnight. Anyone know if the tensioner is hydraulic or simple spring powered? Trying to figure out why it is tight when warm but slack when cold.

Thanks

 

the tensioner is hydraulic..
A slight amount of deflection on the belt is normal. but none of the idlers should turn by hand. i replaced the tensioner on mine at 260k. still seemed fine but didnt want to take the chance with the new belt. A/C compressor has to come off to replace it (just unbolted and moved to the side, not completely removed)

Your close mileage wise so you might as well replace the belt. Should it skip time though these engines are non interference and should not have an issue other than running bad should the belt jump time...

 

Timmy the Toolman ("timmah" on this forum) has prepared an excellent video on replacing the V6 engine's timing belt and water pump. In that video he explains how he removed the lower bolt that holds the tensioner on without having to monkey around with the AC compressor. Wish I had that video when I did my timing belt...

 

2nd for @timmah. I used his videos when I did my timing belt. It made it pretty straight forward. It also helps my friend has a 40" TV in his garage you can watch as you wrench.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHC46ypHxWc