Manual Hub Conversion for the 1st Gen Tacoma & 3rd Gen 4Runner

If you're asking if the ADD and Manual Hub gear clamshells are the same (which is shown in my pictures above) they are. What's different is what mounts on the axle tube flange shown below, and the addition of an ADD gear stub. The clamshell is the same regardless of ADD or Manual Hubs.

You will need an ADD gear stub to use an ADD axle tube on a manual hub clamshell. Luckily for you I have my old one if you need it.

 

Thanks Tyler, but I'll have all the stuff I need with this spare add diff I have lying around. If only someone wanted to trade for a manual one lol.

 

Tyler, here's a diagram of a manual hub diff - what parts would I need besides #8? If it's only #8 I'll go for it and keep all the stuff from my spare add diff to put into it. I'm guessing I'll need the output shaft and bearing though, numbers 5 and 4 or do those swap over from the add tube as well?

 

They come as one assembly the bearing holds the intermediate shaft in Place.

 

So the tube you got wasn't just a tube

 

Unfortunately no, it had the intermediate shaft along with a bearing and an oil seal. Comes out as one unit.

 

Have any of you manual hub guys w/ ADD diff, have any of you locked the ADD passenger side stub shaft, with the actuator still attached?

 

You don't have to if you don't want to, if you still have the ADD system intact just leave it and unlock your hubs to keep your axles from spinning.

 

Well I have ADD with manual hubs. I just want to lock the passenger side shaft, if for the only reason atm to keep the 4x4 indicator light.
But I haven't read much information about the "hose clamp" trick, if it interfers with the actuator motor fork... Or even if the 4x4 light continues to work?

 

Bump. Nobody?

 

If you want the 4x4 light to still work you can use the transfer case position switches. Splice into the 4WD computer.

 

Yeah, I'm aware of that. But I'm not wanting to open up the dash atm.

So the hose clamp would interfere with a functional actuator and it's fork?

 

Of course, you're locking the shaft with a hose clamp preventing the actuator fork from moving. You're basically disabling your actuator from actuating since the hose clamp would be pushing back on the fork.

 

Hmm. Usually when that's done is the actuator unplugged? Would it damage the actuator motor if it was left plugged in? With the motor trying to move it while the hose clamp prevents it? Seems like it would. I've never opened an actuator up before to see how it exactly functions...

 

I would keep it unhooked. I forget if Tacomas use an electronic or vacuum actuated (I think they used both) fork, but my 4Runner one was vacuum actuated so you would do is physically push the actuator fork with it off of the differential into the engaged position and use a hose clamp on the shaft.

Electronic actuators shouldn't be much different

 

Ah okay. Bummer. Still have to open the dash and jumper the 4wd pos switch for the indicator...

Probably just best to yank the actuator all together and use a block-off plate.

Very early tacos used vacuum actuators like 95-96 iirc. The rest of the ADD trucks used electronic.

Sweet thanks for the replies.

 

Make sure you use the 4WD position sensor, the 4LO one won't work. Can't remember the wire color.

 

Yeah. 4lo switch will work. But only in 4lo.

 

what are those plugs on the transfer case? I have about 3 of them. Do they go to the 4wd module under the dash?

I think the 03-04 models came with electronic control ADD actuators.

 

Right, I meant it would only engage in 4LO.