Wiring for cali raised light bar and ditch lights

At the time I had just left it taped off and dangling. I have since finished wiring everything in and have it connected to an add a fuse connected to the taillight fuse under the dash.

 

Did you bump that tail light fuse to a larger fuse or keep it the 7.5 or 5 or whatever it originally was? Also, if you’re adding a second switch, do you think it can be piggybacked onto the same fuse?
Thanks

 

I kept the original 7.5 amp fuse and added a smaller fuse for the switch. I have three switches piggybacked together currently and have it wired for a potential two additional switches if needed. The little LED in the switch has practically no draw so you can piggyback a bunch of switches before you'd run into issues, this is assuming you are running the switches to relays for control of the lights.

 

Okay great thanks for the info. Yeah I just have the plug n play harnesses so they both go through that relay and to the lights.
If you have any pics of the piggybacking, or down by the fuse block and wanted to attach one that'd help too but I think I can figure it out from here if you don't.
Thanks again

 

No pictures currently and it's way too cold out for me to want to get some for you, sorry. If you are ok waiting a couple day I can try to remember to get some once it warms up.

Below is similar to what I did, but instead of plugging into the back of the switch like show below the connection points are to the red wire for your switch.

Below is also an amazing thread if you are ever interested in going fullout with regard to your acc wiring needs
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...n-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/#post-11086094

 

If you don't know already, the switch panel from CaliRaised does not fit with the OEM style push switches.. it only allows rocker style switches (caliraised doesn't sell them) And it requires you to drill into your stock cubby panel. If you want the stock style push switches, buy a shapeways 3d printed switch panel. It screws into the 4 holes that the cubby is originally mounted to.. No drilling required.

I know because I made the mistake of drilling into my panel, installing the caliraised switch plate and THEN finding out it doesn't work with the switches they sell. Not only did I have to buy a shapeways panel, I had to buy a whole new OEM dash panel for that area...

Google "shapeways Tacoma" and it will be the first result.

 

Oh, and when I wired it, I had to do green to white, red to blue. other wise the switch light stayed on the whole time. The caliraised video shows it the other way around. So if you run into that problem, just reverse the two connections... and obviously black to black and then I wired the second red to the add a fuse into my "panel" slot in the interior fuse panel.

I actually joined 2 "add a fuse" wires from 2 different switches together (led bar, and ditch lights) connected those to a length of extra wire about 8 inches long, and then connected that one wire to the fuse tap. I'm running two 5A fuses in my fuse tap in the "panel" slot. the words on the switches light up when my headlights are on, the pictures light up when I activate the switch. and the switch lights turn off when the headlights are off, or when I lock my taco.

 

Here is the link to the shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/product/CHMNWZF8H/tacoma-narrow-switch-plate-for-16-tacoma

 

Oh great thank you man! I actually have the shapeways panel installed in the truck with my ditch lights switch and bar light switch (haven’t put in the bar yet but that’s my motivation to do so).

How you wired it helps me quite a bit though since it sounds like it’s the same setup I’m going for. I’ll keep this in mind when I’m wiring it all up!

 

This isn't the panel you're talking about, is it?
How is this different than the shapeways one?

https://caliraisedled.com/products/...&utm_medium=Social&utm_campaign=Facebook+Shop

 

That’s the one yes but caliraised just released that the other day and I bought mine a couple weeks ago. But mine is 3D printer and theirs is machined steel or aluminum I think. Also it’s half the price of shapeways so buy from Caliraisedled for sure

 

Would you mind posting any pictures you can if your wiring? The fuse block under the dash, the add a fuse, where it went, any/all of that would be a huge help. I am going to wire up my bar tomorrow morning so anything you can snap and send would be a huge help. Thanks!

 

Here’s a picture of the add a fuse. You wont be able to put the cover back on obviously. I just tucked the excess wire up out of the way. I attached the led switch light wires (the extra red wire that caliraised shows in their video) from 2 switches into one length of 16G wire about 6 inches long using a butt connector, and then ran that single wire to the add a fuse. I used 5A fuses for both slots on the AAF. The panel fuse is a 5A from the factory, so that made it easy.

I’m at work right now (night shift) so I can’t dissassemble my dash to take pics of the wiring. But if you follow the connection colors I had posted earlier you should be good. If it doesn’t work the way it should for the switch illumination, reverse the red and green wire connections. From what I’ve read and seen, the switches are one of those two wiring options. Just depends on which one you got.


To the previous poster Camel89;
Caliraised didn’t have that panel when I did my install. I’m glad they made one! And at 15 bucks that’s much better than the shapeways panel price

 

Wow thanks SimplyBarbarick! I’ll see what I can do today!

 

I guess the one part I’m having trouble with (only because I’ve never heard of doing this) is merging the two extra red wires. So the two extra reds went into one side of the butt connector and then one 16 awg goes in the other side?

 

Correct! then run that 16AWG into the wire from the add a fuse

 

It would look like this.. The red wire from the switch is the "extra red wire" I didn't want to draw out all 4 wires from the switch. I'm a visual learner, so this would have helped me if I had it when I was wiring!

 

Mesojdm sells an add a fuse cover that replaces factory that allows fuses to fit with cover

 

Thank you I’m visual too! I know there’s a load side and a draw side on fuses so you have to insert the add a fuse in the right direction so the fuses will actually trip if something shorts and not just let that short burn all the way down the circuit. Do you guys know which orientation is correct?

 

Reviving this thread

So when wiring the switch I can just leave the extra red wire dangling correct and it won't affect anything?

Thank you