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Alignment questions after adding 3” readylift leveling kit 33”

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by The Riddler, Jan 22, 2018.

  1. Jan 22, 2018 at 6:01 PM
    #41
    tacobell007

    tacobell007 Western Mass Automotive Coatings

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    Yea there is usually other things involved like rear brake lines, maintenance items like gear oil changes or motor oil changes, brakes, filters, etc.
     
    EatSleepTacos[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Jan 22, 2018 at 6:03 PM
    #42
    tacobell007

    tacobell007 Western Mass Automotive Coatings

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    Plus your truck was the first one we did the bushing in. Now we can have it done by itself in 45 mins to an hour
     
  3. Jan 22, 2018 at 6:04 PM
    #43
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I did the bushing in mine the other week for the first time, and it was surprisingly easy. For some reason I was intimidated at first taking CVs out, but it was a breeze. Makes a huge difference as well in how the truck rides
     
  4. Jan 22, 2018 at 6:07 PM
    #44
    tacobell007

    tacobell007 Western Mass Automotive Coatings

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    Yea it is pretty straight forward, the biggest pain is getting the seal in in my opinion. Best off draining the front diff before starting as well
     
  5. Jan 22, 2018 at 6:08 PM
    #45
    inksin

    inksin Well-Known Member

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    I had the Readylift kit. Worked perfectly fine for me. Rode like stock for the most part, a little twitchy at higher speeds but nothing dangerous by any extent of the imagination. Had stock UCAs at the time too. Ran it like that for a year or so. The back will give you some axle wrap if you jump on the gas hard due to the blocks but that was the only downfall. Changed the back to an add a leaf to get rid of the blocks and the inherent axle wrap and that made the ride a little more stiff (3 leaf AAL) but I added 2 sandbags in the bed and that has mellowed the stiffness out. Like Big Dustin said, drive it and see if it's for you. If it feels alright then you're all G as long as you aren't doing any real offroading. If you plan on doing some moderate offroad action then 5100s are probably a better choice but not mandatory like most want you to believe
     
    Big Dustin and The Riddler[OP] like this.
  6. Jan 22, 2018 at 6:13 PM
    #46
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I found that a 2" PVC coupling is the PERFECT size to hammer in the new seal. That and a 3lb hammer made quick work of it for me.

    upload_2018-1-22_21-12-47.jpg
     
    outlawtacoma likes this.
  7. Jan 22, 2018 at 6:18 PM
    #47
    tacobell007

    tacobell007 Western Mass Automotive Coatings

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    We have a big 3/4" drive socket we use, the flanges just fits inside the socket and the socket edge rests on the spring/metal inner portion of the seal, if you understand what I'm trying to say lol
     
    EatSleepTacos[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Jan 22, 2018 at 6:21 PM
    #48
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    After dealing with driving the seal too deep and having to replace it, I'm now very familiar with them unfortunately and understand exactly what you're saying :bananadead: And also really good at getting CVs in and out.
     
    tacobell007[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Jan 22, 2018 at 6:23 PM
    #49
    tacobell007

    tacobell007 Western Mass Automotive Coatings

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    Eibach springs, OME Dakars, Walker Evans remote resi coilovers with adjustable dampening, Icon tubular uniball UCAs, Icon ext travel rear shocks, Kenwood in-dash nav receiver, Kicker 10 inch sub in a ported truck box, Alpine 250 watt amp, stickers, Rigid 32" gang box, LED tool box lights, 35% tint, Flowmaster Super 44 muffler, 35x12.5x17 Mastercraft Courser MXT's, Fuel Off-Road Trophy d551 in 17x8.5, Retros, white corner marker bulbs, color matched front grille, custom satoshi grille mod with matching Toyota badge, aFe Pro5R drop in filter, diff breather mod, new frame from recall, SOS concepts front plate, SOS concepts rear high clearance plate with swing out and full size spare, SOS bolt-on sliders with kickout, 22" LED bar, flush mount pods in rear plate bumper for aux reverse lights, Rigid Industries dually's on SOS ditch light brackets, 5.29 Nitro gears, ARB front air locker, Detroit locker in the rear
    We use 2 pry bars to get the CV out, I can also do it with one and a mini sledge. The seal is better to leave slightly shallow, and popping the CV back in should push it to proper depth
     
  10. Jan 23, 2018 at 8:19 AM
    #50
    HeadStrong Off-Road

    HeadStrong Off-Road Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Thank you so much for your recommendation and your business we truly appreciate it
     
  11. Jan 25, 2018 at 2:24 PM
    #51
    The Riddler

    The Riddler [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2EED094F-B703-4AC5-A728-5DEA0D069680.jpg Mission accomplished! I want to thank the members who responded in this thread to give me some positive feedback. The Toyota dealership botched the alignment and I ended up paying someone local to have the alignment corrected. There was no need for upper or lower control arms for the 3” x 2” readylift leveling kit for the 17 Sport. I put the 285’s on and Nfab step came today and I like it. Drives nice! I’m not out jumping hills, I’m a beach runner that needed some clearance. For me that’s what the Readylift is for. Thanks again guys and thank you Readylift folks Taylor and Mike for guiding me into the right direction and provide the alignment information to get the job done right.
     

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