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Nice! However, there are four pins on the female side of the kicker and only two pins on the female side of the stock connector. So the question remains. Taking the two wires off and merely “plugging” them into the other two connectors begs to ask about the other two posts. There must be something else going on electrically that would require the other two. I doubt they would just put four pins for fun. I’m gonna talk to kicker tmrw.

 

Depends on what music you will be listening to. Do you like sharp and tight bass or loud and punchy bass? Also depends on what Amp you have or plan to run.

 

This is what I wanna do when I get around to doing this. I feel it will be much more sturdy rather than just relying on the screws to thread into the plastic on the mounts.

So, what size bolts and nuts did you go with? Did you have to cut the ends of the bolts once they were tightened into place?

 

You're going to be limited by the mounting depth more than anything else...what type of music do you typically listen to? Are you looking for SQ or deep pounding bass? Do you have a preference over ported or sealed enclosures? Do you already have an amp? If so, what is it?

 

The JBL is wired a bit differently than the standard entune. On the standard system, the left and right channel signals are sent to each tweeter, and then to each door (in series). If you unplug a tweeter, sound on that entire side of the truck goes off. The tweeter (both stock and the Subaru kicker) contains its own Crossover to filter out the lows. Two pins on the plug are signal from the head unit, the other two are output going to the front door speaker. The Subaru tweeters are not directly compatible with the JBL system.

On the JBL system, the speakers are not in series that way. Presumably, the tweeters get their own signal from the amp (wherever that is.....I don’t have a JBL).....that’s why it only has two wires. I would assume that the high pass filter is somewhere before the tweeter on the JBL (like part of the amp), but I’m not sure.....so you may not need one if you were to install new tweeters on the JBL. As someone stated above, an easy way to make your own harness for new tweeters on a JBL would be to remove the plug from the old tweeters....you’d be messing up your old stock tweeters in the process, though. Again, you may or may not have to wire in a crossover in this situation.....I don’t know to what degree the JBL filters the signal going to the stock tweeters already.

 

They were slightly bigger than what came with the kit and yes we cut and grinded the ends off

 

Sub box is complete. Not as nice as I wanted but not bad for my first attempt at one.

 

Which JL sub is it? Amp?

 

It’s a Jl 8w3v3-4. And I am using the Jbl gtx-500 amp. It sounded really good for a 8” sub in a different box in my 2003 4runner

 

Nice, I've always liked JL. That 10TW3, and the RD500/1 would sound pretty good together.

 

Just wanted to say Thanks to the OP and those who have contributed to this thread!!!

I did the swap this weekend and WOW!!! The tweeters make a huge difference! I went with Kicker compVT 6.5 subs for the rear doors (because I already had them) and the Kicker CSC693 6x9 for the front as the tread mentioned. The sound is incredible! I can't wait to see what it's like once I get my AMP in when the weather warms up.

 

I switched all my speakers out this weekend. (My truck is a 2015) I went with rockford fosgate primes based on the crutchfield reviews and price. (Disclaimer: I was not looking for crazy high end.) Total out the door for tweeters, 6x9's (2 way), and 6 1/2's (3 way) was $125. I was going to follow suit with the kickers but the 6x9's wouldn't fit (to deep) and I have ocd brand issues so I can't cross pollinate.

Install was pretty easy even with rewiring and building the adapter for the tweeters. Don't be scared of these door panels easiest ones I have ever taken apart. I used the oem connector and wired it to the new tweeters. Red to red and black to black not rocket science. I used a cutting board from Walmart and jig saw to build the adapter (Its not very pretty but works). All doors got Noico around front of the speaker and behind the speaker. I did not do the entire door.

I am very satisfied with the speakers. For the cost and time its worth every penny. Best part is I can crank these speaks and the music stays nice and crisp, even the low ends. I should have done this a long time ago.

 

Oh this also saved my sanity. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/passenger-side-rattling-noise-3rd-gen.495646/ I figured I'd share it here since we're already taking off the tweeter cover.

 

This didn't work for me or I'm not doing something right. Gonna see what the dealer can do when I go for my oil change.

 

I spent the day doing the front doors. It took about 4 hours but I'm also in a wheel chair with a broken leg so it was a process. After doing both front speakers and tweeters I powered the truck on to hear them and only the tweeters have sound coming from not the lower door speakers... Has anyone else had this issue?

 

Make sure that the wires are pushed all the way onto the tabs of the speakers. They may have popped off. That’s the only thing I can think of.

 

Same thought. Throw electrical tape over the connections.

 

I'll pull them off and double check that today. I'm gonna take my dmm and double check it's getting power. Do I need to reset anything For the head unit to output power to the new speakers?

 

Great thread! Subaru tweeters ordered! Anyone want to save me 80+ pages of reading and fill me in on the consensus for front/rear door speakers? Best sound? Which install with the smallest headache? 3rd Gen Sport. Thanks!

 

You're referring to the pos/neg tabs directly on the speaker itself right?