OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

Mine is back at arb now. We will see what they say.
But I have always had GREAT customer service from them and

 

Any reason for the regulator going to the tank? I'm pretty sure the ARB compressors have a pressure switch that shuts off at either 135 or 150psi anyway. If anything you would need a pressure regulator to your lockers which shouldn't have any more than 100psi to them.

Personally, when I get lockers, I will be running:
compressor (shut off @ 150psi) > water trap > tank
tank > gauge
tank > water trap > regulator @ 90psi > lockers
tank > quick connect

It seems like guys around here don't like this for some reason, but I leave my compressor on full time. It shuts itself off at 150psi, and I have no air leaks, so my tank is always full for when I want to air up tires or run lockers. I have the relay wired to keyed power, so the compressor can only turn on if the engine is running, leaving no risk of killing my battery. If something did happen, I have dual batteries, so my starter battery is protected anyway.
I do have a compressor power switch, so I can shut it off if I need to, and if I was ever in a really big jam and needed to run the compressor with the truck off for whatever reason, I can either leave the key in the "run" position, or snip the wire and run it straight to battery. I drain any moisture from my tank once a month or so, but there is rarely much in there.

 

I wasn’t sure if the compressor was regulated at all. So I figured out it in front of the tank to control it. I know for the lockers the solonoids and pressure switches will control the proper amount of air going to the lockers (if I understood correctly). So only needed for the tank I thought.

Also I wanted to keep the two systems separate (tank and lockers). Figured with the manifold it would work and could separate it all. This way the tank doesn’t have to completely fill if I need to just switch the lockers on.

Any issues with that? I like your method too, just didn’t want to have to fill the tank if I needed to run lockers.

 

Totally get that, and the way you are doing it seems like how most people here run their setup. My tank is always full, so I have instant air, even without the compressor kicking on I could engage the lockers a few times. The way you have it, you will need to make sure you turn your compressor on every time before you engage your lockers.

You shouldn't need a regulator to the tank, it can handle full volume from the compressor, no problems. The only reason you would need a regulator would be if you were running sensitive tools or something from your air tank, which I doubt would be a problem. And even then, the regulator would be installed after your tank, not before. I'm 95% sure that the ARB twin has it's own pressure shut off switch, so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

FWIW last time I talked to ECGS they said that arb lockers are perfectly happy at 150 psi.

 

Yeah. My truck sits a lot so I figured the only time I would need air is when filling up tires. So flip a switch at the beginning of the trail and each system is separate. If I don’t air down (like snow wheeling) the lockers are ready to go and I can keep the tank empty. I guess I would have to put a shut off to the tank as the compressor would run each time and fill the tank for the lockers for my method.

 

Great service maybe, but crappy product. I'd rather have something more reliable.

Not to mention, durable. I've seen guys on the trail with new ARB lockers but a failed ARB pump. Boy were they pissed.

 

Fair enough. Seems like you can google ARB locker pressure and find an answer for anywhere between 70 - 150psi

 

I'm glad to see this thread is still alive.

I've had an ARB dual compressor for a while and didn't want it mounted under the hood due to heat, dirt, mud etc. so I made a portable set up. I'd like to mount it in the bed and recently stumbled across this. http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com...a-Tacoma-Bedside-Compressor-Mount_p_1897.html

Has anyone used one?
I don't think the ARB wiring harness isn't long enough, but if I'm not running lockers, someone said (a few pages back) the Red, black and purple wires are the only ones which will need to be run for power and the switch. Can anyone confirm this?

 

I'm no expert with the ARB, but as of this coming weekend I should be complete with my install and I can tell you there is a lot of space behind the fenders. You might be able to squeeze that thing up there above the storage cubby and not loose the cubby. Currently I have my VIAIR, regulator, and gauges mounted in behind the light, and my tank mounted to the bottom of the cubby. I lost nothing, but it took many trips to the hardware store.

 

That's the best part of any project. But sometimes I just tell them and watch their heads spin.

 

Sad thing is, most of the time I do know more than the people working at Lowes or Big Orange.

 

Thanks! I don't mind losing the cubby. This should at least keep the compressor dry and clean. I just hope wiring it all the way back there won't be a huge pain in the ass.

 

I just installed the box and compressor, but haven't hooked it up to a live switch just yet.
One thing that troubled me when working on getting the box installed was why wouldn't they use the pre-existing holes for the cubby? Instead, they make you drill 6 entirely new ones on the edge of the storage cut-out. I'm certainly no engineer, so I assume they had a reason, but it baffles me.

As for the wiring, yes. You have two looms coming from the compressor. One goes to the airlocker set up, the other smaller loom goes to a basic switch.

 

Just sounds like Bad design, or at least a design that utilizes the largest amount of the factory opening.

 

Perhaps not a well thought out design. I haven't spoken with anyone from the company as to their decision to create 6 new holes, but they probably have a reason.

 

I've been thinking about that. Mine is up pretty high, and the cubby protects it to a large degree, but I was still considering some sort of custom mud flap for the compressor side. It wouldn't be difficult to completely seal off that area to all water and dirt.

 

Only area of concern that seems easily fixed are the gaps where the box sides come together and where it attaches to the bed. I haven't had a chance yet, but I'm going to try and apply some sealant to the openings. Might not be 100% water and dust proof, but better than nothing.

 

I've been contemplating just hitting those exact areas with spray foam, but that shit is messy and impossible to remove.

 

If you use good quality sealed connectors the only way into these compressors is through the air intake. Make sure that it gets fed clean air and you can mount it anywhere that doesn't get too hot. At least that's what I've been able to find out. The engine compartment is actually not recommended as a good spot by SD truck springs. Behind the passenger wheel might be hotter than in front of it because of the exhaust below. That may be why the drivers side cubby is listed for that mount.