Loud Clicking/Clacking/Pinging from A340F Bellhousing [UPDATE: TRUCK IS DEAD]

Sorry it ended up costing you an arm and an ass to get done, but I'm glad you did nothing wrong at the same time. I hope this hasn't discouraged you in the long term

Also in completely unrelated news I finally got an Apple II

 

Hey you live you learn, it is what it is. I'm still planning on dropping the 5VZ in this thing over the Summer, lol!

Apple II+ or Apple IIe?

 

This scares me in my search for an 03/04 A340F. I mean most of the ones being sold are from collisions.

 

If you can, try to look at the truck it came off of. I would look for trucks with side or rear damage or rollover damage. The engine is designed to break off the motor mounts to not crash into the cab, and where else does the engine have to go? The transmission.

 

IIc with rare color monitor. Gonna get a monochrome one too cause it is nostalgic but I'm content to play with BASIC on a native platform now. Excited to see your 5VZ swap, I finally settled on a turbo for mine, already ordering stuff for it.

 

My original dream was to drop a D4D 1KD Turbo Diesel in here, but the California BAR will have a heart attack when they see a Diesel engine never sold in the United States on a Tacoma that came stock with a gas engine.

Keep an eye on Craigslist, I got my Apple II+ from a guy throwing it away, I found it under a tree. There were pine needles where pine needles should never be.

 

You know what's crazy? In the end, after the cost of parts and labor to replace the transmission at a shop, the total cost is STILL less than what it would be if I sold my truck and found the same truck with as low mileage as I have already 4WD from the factory.

 

same

 

@BartMaster1234 Dang sorry to hear all that but hey I've had issues with my manual transmission in the past which I miss-diagnosed.

Check out this thread where I had a learning experience myself leaving me stranded:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...into-first-manual-trans.502183/#post-16442917

We all learn from our mistakes. That is how you get better as a mechanic: Trial and error. As a mechanic the hardest part of the entire job isn't fixing the problem, It's DIAGNOSING the problem.

Just do a manual swap and be done haha (jk)

 

So will the dust shield just start rubbing then? Mine has 315,000 on it and it has recently developed a noise in D and R and not when in P or N. Not loud, but noticable. Almost a dry bearing noise, with some clicking in it. Coming from the bellhousing area, looked through the inspection plate area and couldn't find loose hardware or any cracks in the flexplate. I tried to listen to the sound bite at the beginning but it is corrupt now.

Any help would be aprreciated,

Brandon

 

Record the sound

 

My shit is doing the same thing I think. I can’t see your sound clips or hear hem but mine is doing this

https://youtu.be/7iCTOuWGKJc

Sound similar?


Also my torque converter is stuck in the locked position.

 

Bad. Very bad. Pull the inspection plate off and look for cracks on the flex plate.

 

Haha dude I put this flex plate in last night. It was fine for half an hour then started getting.


I’m going to be so bummed if it is cracked. I should’ve paid more attention when installing it. I know better

Even if it is cracked. That wouldn’t explain the tc clutch being permanently locked. And the p0741 code

 

Hey guys .
For the record , bent or uneven converter mounting pads are very common on used transmissions . I have even seen uneven mounting pads on rebuilt torque converters . Bent flywheels , missing dowel pins , nasty crankshaft end play all come into play here .
If you had to pry your transmission away from the engine block , chances are your going to have issues with re-installation.
Rebuilt converters are painted , remove the paint from the pilot shaft .
The pilot shaft on a used converter is full of rust .....remove the rust
Do yourself a favor and mount the converter up to the flywheel by hand making sure the pilot shaft of the converter fits into the back of the crankshaft . Use emery cloth to clean the pilot hole and give it some grease . Lube up the dowel pins and make sure the flex plate is in good order . This is a pre -test fit before you fit the converter into the transmission and bolt it up to the engine .
Hondas and toyota,s are famous for these issues .
Once the transmission is up in place with a couple bellhousing bolts snugged up , the converter " MUST " spin free .
If the converter doesnt spin with 2 bellhousing bolts snugged up , something is binding or you got the wrong converter for the application
If the converter spins free and only if the converter spins free , begin threading all the bolts to the flywheel loosely . Once they are all started , slowly draw the bolts tight which carefully draws the converter into the pilot hole of the crankshaft . Its a pain in the @ss spinning the engine by hand , but you will prevent binding if you mount the converter to the pilot hole of the crankshaft this way .

Uneven mounting pads ?
Can the mounting pads be bent during installation ? absolutely
If the mounting pads are un even , chances are the converter clutch dampner surface is damaged .
If you open up the converter and look inside , the lock up clutch mating surface is on the opposite side of where the pads are located
If the surface the converter clutch applies against is uneven , the converter will chatter .

Spoon , does you truck have neutral ?
If your converter is stuck locked up , as soon as you put the truck in gear , it will stall out.
Listened to your video clip .....Sounds bad , but I am not going to take a guess .
Bartmaster,s clip sounded like the alluminum plate between the engine and trans was bent and rubbing which is the most common issue after re-install and the symptoms he was describing . I was wrong and will never again give people advice after listening to their video clip .
When I answer questions on this site , i make the mistake of beleiving that everybody that removes and installs transmissions know what they are doing and have at least read some instructions in a repair manual before they take on a job like this .I cant take blame for the butchery and hacking that occurs when people dont read a repair manual and then ask me what the problem is when they hear a noise .

 

So get this...


I took my pan of to figure out why the TCC was stuck on. I pulled the solenoid off and cleaned it, and blew out the lines it feeds.


TCC is unlocked now.

And SOUND IS GONE

 

SO here is mine, finally. I am going to pull the transmission as soon as I get the garage cleaned out. I will bring it in this weekend. If this is a familiar sound to any of you and can point me in a direction as I am getting it apart that would be helpful, otherwise I will post what I find. I think it is the converter, but I can't be sure until it comes out.

Brandon

 

Usually it will do it in every gear, all the time if it’s a cracked flexplate. I’d say that’s different.

 

I replaced my torque converter and the sound is gone. Seems the torrington bearing in the stator portion of the TC had gone bad and was making the noise. Another one for the Auto transmission FAQ.

 

Where'd you get the TC from? How much?