Turbo BS Thread

I meant to tag @MrCrowntown but i forgot and since that was the last post on the page

 

Lookin' better and better my friend! Also, get an alignment lol

 

What? Cuz of tire noise? #mudtyrelyfe i prolly do need one; its been over a year but because of my turbo it has prolly only been like 10k miles

 

Looks much better!

 

Managed to fly to the gas suppply and snag another bottle of Argo, before I ran out of time. Cross-over completed.

 

Welds are looking clean!

 

Looks like I'm going to have to get a radiator soon but is it true that there are different one for the same year ?

 

Auto/manual is different because the auto has the tranny cooler built-in and the manual doesn't. Not sure if there's a difference between 1gr and 2tr.

 

Same

 

Good to know.

 

@MrCrowntown and another guy found the specs, during the time I was having Ron Davis make a drop in radiator, for the 2nd Gen. The credit goes to them..

 

For me its 3rz

 

There are 3 different sizes all the same width but the height changes. You should measure the hieght on yours so you can match it.

I know the 4x4 guys like to use the 2wd radiator because they don’t hang so low.

 

Thx and I did get the AEM everything good and I think I'll solder everything like you did.

 

@boostedka have you been thinking of putting the MS3 back in ? I'ts hard to drive on the freeway. I went ahead and got the AEM I'll be putting it in in the next 2-3 months.

 

So im guessin a do have a vacuum leak somewhere still or a bad sensor. I have reset the code since i "fixed" the tune and it still comes on after ~20 miles. It does lean my fuel trims out a lil. Like really close to 0 at cruise actually, but after my truck warms up, stft are non existant.

 

I’ve been going back and forth on it. The main thing I’d like to figure out is the wiring for the MS3 to the IAC valve. I’m pretty sure I do not have that wired up correctly. Sounds like it’s a bit of trickery that needs to be done in order to get it to work correctly.
I definitely noticed the timing maps on the MS made it run smoother and a little torquey-er.

What issues are you having in the freeway? The only thing I experience is rich AFR in open loop causing it to bog a bit. Nothing extreme though. I think if there was PNP injectors around 380cc they would probably work very well.

 

Same just bogging on the freeway plus an issue with barely idling right at start up but today I noticed this which is very concerning.
As I was typing this I was thinking that I did change the FPR back to the original thinking it was ok but noticed it was 43psi instead of 50psi like the new one so I guess I could change it and see what happens otherwise it might be the pump which is new from URD.

 

I changed the FPR note the vac hose pointing a different direction on the new one and no difference I’ll just have to stay out of boost.

 

I can’t find any solid leads on why the fuel pressure is less than 30psi but it may have started today on the way home from work I noticed at WOT bogging and afr’s high (lean)
Fuel Pump (New DW200 from URD)
FPR (New)
Fuel Filter (again it’s new)