Redline motor oil review?

Has anyone have “real” long mileage experience with redline 5w30? All Opinions are welcome!

 

There is really very little difference between brands of motor oil whether synthetic or not. The key to long engine life when it comes to different brands of oil is changing oil and filter regularly and using the correct viscosity. Other than that it doesn’t matter if you use Penns oil, Red line oil, Castro oil or any other major brand. There’s differences between synthetic oil and non synthetic oil but you won’t necessarily get longer engine life using only synthetic as opposed to non synthetic.

 

I go with whatever synthetic is on sale. I get my oil tested at blackstone lab and they recommended a 10k interval so that's what I'm doing.

 

Yeah I hear ya man. Thanks for the respond

 

Holy crap 10k? I was already worried that 5k intervals was too long for me lol

 

Mine tests for over 12k. I change at 10 'cause it's easy to remember. Plus that gives me some 'slack' where I don't have to think about having it right on the nose.

If you spend the money for syn, don't have some ultra severe duty conditions, and don't take advantage of the longer OCIs, you're wasting money.

Todays dino oils are as good or better than syns of 10-15 yrs ago. If you insist on short OCIs, just use that.

And if you don't use at least one oil test to tell you about your oil and your engine health, but listen to others about what you should do, it's no different than self medicating for cholesterol or diabetes w/o a blood test.

I have nothing against Redline or any other boutique lubricant, other than price. Our motors are not needy of fancy elixers, just the right wt, SAE rating and cleanliness. There is nothing a boutique oil can provide over an OTC oil that can rationalize the price delta.

Unless maybe the stickers you get?

 

Valvoline Max Life has some blend of naphthenic oil that swells the seals and keeps older models from leaking.

 

Clearwater bill, what would that particular oil test be called so I can find one in cali?

 

Redline products are top notch, but if your changing out the oil at the recommended OCIs than any off the shelf certified oil in the right viscosity will do at a better cost savings than Redline, I would use Redline gear and trans. oils since these are 30k miles OCIs.

 

I’ve used several of Redline products and have been happy with them.

Here’s a great website for oil information;
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

I've been going 7500-8500 with Amsoil Signature 10-30 in my 2.7. Blackstone said I could go to 9500 from the analysis I've been getting. I'm going to try 9500 this time and see what the analysis says. I've been working the changes up slowly over the past two years. I usually go two changes before I bump it up another 1000 miles because I want to be on the safe side. I also use Mobil 1 filters which they claim to be good for up to 15,000 miles. Insoluble's and silicon in my oil samples show that the Mobil 1 filters are good to at least 8500 miles so far for my application.

Like another post said. Using expensive synthetics only pays off if you're going to do analysis and stretch the intervals to the max. I do it for the same reason I run Iridium plugs. I don't like doing that type of maintenance any more often than I have to. My Taco also runs pretty much 15 miles on the interstate 5 days a week and only gets off-roaded very mildly maybe 100 miles a month. City driving is about one day a week. That type of usage makes a big difference in how long your oil will last.

One other thing to remember is that the store bought "synthetics" like Mobil 1 you buy at Wal-Mart are NOT 100% synthetic. They are blends. Pennzoil Platinum is the only pure store bought synthetic. Boutiques like Amsoil Signature and others such as Redline are true 100% synthetic and therefore deliver the longevity and hot/cold characteristics a little better. Not that I'm hacking on Mobil 1 or any other "synthetic". I used Mobil 1 for over 10 years myself. It, as well as others are truly spectacular oils. I just choose to run Amsoil Signature and ring every mile out of it that I can because Amsoil invented synthetics way back in the 70's and I think they know what they are doing.

 

Yesterday I mixed three quarts valavoline, one quart penz and two quarts mobil1 without a filter change. No fucks given

 

First, congrats for using Oil Analysis the RIGHT way. Slowly increasing intervals and using tests to determine suitability. I am doing 10K/1 year intervals on my second gen V6. Tests indicate it could go longer, but I am comfortable with 10K, and as someone else pointed out, it's easy to remember.

I do have issue with what you've stated about store bought synthetics not being 100% synthetic. First of all, NO oil is 100% synthetic. Additives account for 10-20% of what's in a can of oil. What you are referring to is the base oil. It's far more complex a story than it used to be. Furthermore, the make up of the base oil varies not only by brand, but within different lines within the brand, and different viscosities within the line.

As an example, the relatively new Mobil 1 Annual Protection's 0W-20 base oil is close to 100% PAO, but the 5W-30 in the AP line is not. In most cases, you really do not know for certain the makeup of the base oils in motor oils, nor are the manufacturers willing to state, for the most part. Finally, a 100% synthetic (Group 4 or 5) doesn't necessarily indicate better performance. It's the overall formulation, including additives, that collectively defines the performance of the motor oil.

 

You are 100% correct. I was referring to the base oil. Oil technology changes all the time so my info could be a few years behind. It's been a few years since I spent hours and hours on the BITOG site. If I remember correctly Amsoil Signature is mostly PAO with Ester base oil added. It has a rather heavy "detergent pack" as well.

The fact of the matter is that any name brand oil changed at the right intervals will make an engine last a very long time. I only use Amsoil signature because Amsoil pretty much invented synthetics back in the 70's and I'd rather not have to roll around under the truck any more often than I have to. The same reason I use Iridium plugs.

I'm actually stretching my interval to 9500 miles this time because Blackstone said I could after I had a sample done at 8500. It kind of makes me nervous but even if I get a bad sample once I doubt it will hurt anything. My ultimate goal is to go 10,000 miles and if I need to I may just change the filters every 5000 and add a little fresh oil which kind of defeats my purpose since it's changing the filter on 2.7 4X4 that makes changing the oil such a PIA.

I don't know why but Toyota has been reluctant to extend oil change intervals on the 2.7 past 5000 miles for some reason even with synthetic but they may have changed their position by now. I don't know.

 

Redline Oil is pretty heavy duty oil. Their PCMO has large amounts of additives like ZDDP that would disqualify it from an API certification. I run their 0W20 and their oil is generally the thickest allowable viscosity for the SAE grade.

 

Redline is for racing where constant high load pressure is put upon various components. It's actually worthless when it comes to daily drivers and normal trail riding. Sure, It works but it is designed mainly for racing applications. If I had a serious off-road buggy or rock climber or anything else that is beaten I, without a doubt, would be running Redline in everything. Amsoil is it's equal for normal and even extreme uses for the vast majority of people. But so is Mobil 1. So is Pennzoil Platinum. No, I am not an Amsoil rep. I learned how good Amsoil was back in the 90's and use it now in my Taco for 10,000 mile oil changes with confidence per Blackstone Labs analysis. I may back down to 7500 mile oil and filter changes to be on the safe side but Blackstone tells me to go to 12,000.

There are a number of really good oils out there. Pick your's for your application.

 

I agree and my statement was based on info from a few years ago. Oil technology changes every 6 months just like car technology. There are, however, 100% synthetics and you will only find them in the boutique oils such as Redline, Amsoil, Shaffers etc. etc. I haven't looked into Mobil 1 for a few years so I could be wrong but as of a few years ago the only real 100% synthetic oil off the shelf was Pennzoil Platinum and they only did it for marketing purposes.

The fact of the matter is synthetics, even blends, are FAR superior to Dino's especially when it comes to extreme temps one way or the other but standard Dino's are so good these days that, for the average person with the average car or truck, they'll be just as well off as long as they change it regularly. Me? I operate in extremely cold temps most of the year and synthetic is better under those conditions. Also, there is not a level spot anywhere where I live so the diffs, tranny and everything else are constantly being stressed so I use Amsoil in all of the gear boxes as well. Other oils would work just fine. I just prefer Amsoil.

I also run heavier grade oils in everything as well. 10-30 in the 2.7 instead of 5-30 and 75-110 in the front and rear diffs instead of 75-90. Tranny and transfer case I run the factory weight lube and I use GL4 in the tranny instead of the GL5 most people run because the factory recommends GL4.

 

Amsoil Signature and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum perform nearly identical:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuKvnCq1js

 

Redline 0w20 is on the heavier side. It has a 2.9 HTHS which is almost qualifying as a light 0W30.