Long Travel BS Thread

For those of you that have cab cages. Do you solid mount the cab and weld the cab to the cage? If you do where are the weak points in the cab? What takes the stress of frame flexing and vibes. Do you get cracks in the cab? Trying to educate myself on the cab cage and what to expect.

 

@erok81 did you haft to cut off your old bump stop mount? I have a old shock lying around and mocked it up and it looks like it will clear the stock bump stop by about a 1 1/2". I'm going to try to plasma out a hole on top and bottom of the mount to put a king bump stop in.

 

Link for the Solo rack?

 

Mine had to come off no question.

With it off I couldn’t even fit a 2.0 king bump between the bypass and frame.

To add the bypass I had to move it off the side. It wasn’t even close behind. My bypasses are 2.5’s if that matters. I don’t know what you were mocking up.

I’ll check on the clearance when I get home.

 

Give em a call and talk to Bobby

 

I checked it with a 2.0 but went off of the shaft because that’s we’re the clearance issues should come from. And I checked it again and it’s more like a 3/4” of clearance. I wonder if the frame changed from the 2nd gen to 3rd because I have a lot more room between where the bypass will be and the frame.

 

Yes the frame is different

 

My cab rest on the cage. It's mostly supported by the A pillar that runs up the window and out the back. Still have the body mounts. I have the A pillar at the window welded. Highly recommend that. The tubes coming in and out of the cab also hold some of the weight. Most of the weight is off the cab now. From there on out you weld parts that squeak to your cage.

 

Here’s a third gen frame.

 

Cool I was hoping you respond. Ok I'll weld the A pillar to the cage.

Found it. Got ya.
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Another thing. My double cab rear cab mount is going to be in the way of my lower link up travel. I was hoping to remove it completely. I guess if I suppot it with the C pillar tube then I can remove the rear mount. What do you think about that? Or should I just trim the mount as much as I can to clear the up travel of the link.

 

I cut a hole in the cab and landed my C pillar tube to the top of the frame. And sealed it after. Makes for nothing in the way for lower link mounts.

 

Complete tundra axle for sale....
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/d/toyota-tundra-rear/6474819894.html

 

It looks pretty close to the same but I had to cut way more out of my wheel well to get the bracket to fit.

 

Ok cool. Yeah I was wondering why some C pillar tubes run at an angle instead of straight down. I’ll plan for the same thanks.

 

You'll want to cut a hole in the floor of the cab and go through, then gusset the cab to the cage at A and B pillar, and then I did above the door frame and above the windshield too. Easiest way is make plates to land on instead of to the top of the frame. This way you can tack the plate, build the cage, knock the plate off and the whole cage drops to weld *360. Then lift the cage back up and weld the plates in permanent. If you cut the hole in the floor way too big it makes it easier, then just trim and weld the piece you cut out back in after its all done. For the rear body mount as long as you gusset the cab to the cage it won't move, I hacked up my rear body mount pretty far. Still have stock body mounts and my cab doesnt move at all

 

My c pillar also lands on top of the frame for when links happen

 

And some sweet power wheelie action from the dunes at sand hollow now that my buddy has started going through some footage.

https://youtu.be/9CRnv2VOHcc

 

Dammit man, you make me want to move out there! You keep the super charge game strong!

 

So i have my battery grounded to my bed cage, and I ran the positive line to a 150 amp breaker and then up to the front where the original battery was. Where have you guys pulled a ground from in the engine bay?

My plan was to leave the original battery connections that went to my battery and hook them up to this (http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Remote-Battery-Jumper-Terminals/745300/10002/-1) but they are thicker than the standard connections.

Now I'm wondering if I should be using this (https://www.bluesea.com/products/2103/PowerPost_Plus_-_3_8in-16_Stud) for both the positive and and another one for the negative and delete the original battery terminal connection idea, add rings to the ends using a chisel and hammer like I did the other cables, and hook a ground from somewhere in the engine to this new post, and then connect the grounds to the post.

I hope this makes sense. Do you guys have any suggestions on this? Im wondering if I should just run a negative from the battery up to the front and put that to one of those posts or if the ground out back and pull a new ground up front would work.

Where are you guys pulling your ground connections in the engine bay from?

Sorry for all the questions!

 

On my first gen the battery was grounded to the frame and I used the second link that you posted to connect the wires in the engine bay