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Frame Protection... Alternatives to Fluid Film

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Fitz235, Dec 23, 2016.

  1. Dec 27, 2016 at 12:22 AM
    #81
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    An oil coating doesn't hide trouble spots like the rubberized coatings do

    Apples , meet Oranges
     
  2. Dec 27, 2016 at 8:40 AM
    #82
    Fitz235

    Fitz235 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Talk about a stretch....

    Good luck with your undercoating bro. Hope it all works out for you.
     
  3. Dec 27, 2016 at 1:37 PM
    #83
    sodak

    sodak Member

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    Unfortunately, I got rid of my 1988 truck back in 2007. It had the hard rubber covering from the factory. After about 18 years, the frame was still pristine, and it had a lot of off roading here in Colorado.

    I wish that Toyota still took care of their frames like they used to... I'd like to have that truck back.
     
  4. Dec 27, 2016 at 2:23 PM
    #84
    Northern Taco

    Northern Taco Well-Known Member

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    It must have been a better coating back then. A '88 with a pristine frame is a unicorn where I live. Would be nice to have.
     
  5. Dec 27, 2016 at 4:26 PM
    #85
    sodak

    sodak Member

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    I agree. I really wish I knew what they put on it. And no joke, I bounced it off a lot of rocks off roading here in Colorado...
     
  6. Jan 1, 2017 at 6:49 PM
    #86
    steelhd

    steelhd Well-Known Member

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    It's a gun and bow centric test but this guy tested 46 different products including the highly touted Fluid Film. Fluid Film only lasted 96 hours. Looks to me like WD40 Specialist Corrosion Protection is one hulluva product and its available in aerosol cans. Skip through the parts of the article about friction and scent right to the corrosion discussion.
    http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
     
    Fitz235[OP] and Norton like this.
  7. Jan 1, 2017 at 7:13 PM
    #87
    shr133

    shr133 Well-Known Member

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    Steve
    Muskego, WI
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    K & N filter, 275 70 17 Cooper AT3, OME Nitrocharger shocks, 884 Springs, Dakar leafs.
    I'm from Wisconsin, the rust belt.
    I have a pressure washer for cleaning the frame.
    I wire wheel and chip the rust off and repaint the frame 2-4 times over the summer with Krylon rust tough.
    Before fall I always go to the dunes and sand blast the bottom of the truck before the final touch up.
    And the last 2 years I have be using fluid film after the final touch up before winter.
    Last spring i tried Valspar anti rust armor on the rear half of the truck and it held up so far and we'll see this spring how it looks.
    So far it seams a little tougher than the krylon.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Jan 1, 2017 at 10:20 PM
    #88
    Fitz235

    Fitz235 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nice find. Looks like the WD Specialist did excellent. The fact that it also offers protection against hot dog slices is a bonus.

    This guy must be hard of smelling if he ranked FF in the "Mild Odor" category.
     
  9. Jan 2, 2017 at 8:49 AM
    #89
    mizhop

    mizhop Well-Known Member

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    Going back to the rubberized coating part of the argument... When I took my truck in to the dealership to take care of a slew of safety recalls (previous owner apparently didn't bother), they sprayed that crap on my frame. OVER the existing rust. God, was I pissed. Needless to say, about 6 months later, most of the coating has since fallen off. Thank god the rear leafs were replaced several months after that memorable visit, so they're not coated in it. What are my options now? Should I arrange to have whatever is left of it removed before starting to use Fluid Film or some other product? How long will that take, do you think? Can it be sandblasted off?
     
  10. Jan 2, 2017 at 9:07 AM
    #90
    Northern Taco

    Northern Taco Well-Known Member

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    One way or another that crap has to come off. Steam clean? Not sure what's the best way to remove it, but fluid film over top of it wont be very effective.
     
    Hay Lobos likes this.
  11. Jan 2, 2017 at 9:20 AM
    #91
    mizhop

    mizhop Well-Known Member

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    Agreed... I see posts where people are chipping at it with putty knives, brush wheels and lots of cursing, and I simply don't have the patience for that (neither would my back and arms), however many days or weeks that might take. There has to be some shop that does this kind of thing in a more efficient manner, and I know I'm probably going to pay out the ass for it, but it absolutely has to be taken care of this spring.
     
  12. Feb 3, 2018 at 3:27 PM
    #92
    joea99

    joea99 Well-Known Member

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    Fwiw, when i had a jeep cj5 and searching for parts talked to real old timer that swore the best rust preventer was a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and used auto trans fluid sprayed on annually. stressed on "used". May have been because he was cheap. Anyway says he got the idea when he realized he never had a problem with rusted stuck bolts around leaky pans and seals. I thought and realised the same thing. spray it on and wear a mask. i guess a brush would work too.
     
  13. Feb 3, 2018 at 3:32 PM
    #93
    joea99

    joea99 Well-Known Member

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    Probably media blasting. Soda or walnut. aluminum oxide is probably too agressive. for those concerned about internal rust Eastwood has stuff for that that some swear by. spray can with nozzel on long hose.
     
  14. Feb 3, 2018 at 3:38 PM
    #94
    JdevTac

    JdevTac Well-Known Member

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    Works the same exact way as any other anti-rust preventatives. Isolates the metal from air/water thus prevents rust forming.
     
  15. Feb 5, 2018 at 9:02 AM
    #95
    igno1tus

    igno1tus Small member

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    So this kit works with all second gen Tacomas ? I have a ‘07 access cab trd offroad
     
  16. Feb 5, 2018 at 1:32 PM
    #96
    Fitz235

    Fitz235 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Feb 5, 2018
    Norton likes this.
  17. Feb 5, 2018 at 2:15 PM
    #97
    RJJB

    RJJB New Member

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    I have tried this product on my 2013 extended cab frame, I'll let you know how it works when the weather it warms up.

    BERKEBILE 2+2® PROTECTION FIRST CLASS…The unique lanolin (Wool Wax) based formula of Protection First Class gives long lasting protection from rust and corrosion by covering the metal with a clear wax film that will not wash off, collect dust, or dry out like oil, silicone and solvent based products. The unique formula penetrates the pores of the metal, protecting from moisture, salt, and corrosion. Excellent vehicle undercoating. Use anywhere that you want long lasting lubrication and rust protection that will not dry out, freeze, or wash off. Will not harm paint, synthetic rubber, or plastic. Also great for long lasting, tack free lubrication. Will also work as a penetrating oil to penetrate metal and free rusted nuts, bolts, and parts. Works especially well protecting electrical connections, battery terminals, switches, trailers lights, snow plow connections, and much more.
    arms up.

    https://www.berkebileoil.com/product-information.html
     
  18. Feb 5, 2018 at 2:19 PM
    #98
    igno1tus

    igno1tus Small member

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    Good so far , I made the mistake of running the truck through a automatic car wash because the salt from the roads here seemed like it was building up . I was looking at the salt just sitting on the frame ( although it was treated) and it freaked me out . The car wash ‘thinned’ out the HDMP in areas under the truck . It’s still there but not as heavy , I shouldn’t of pressure washed it .
     
    Fitz235[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  19. Jun 23, 2019 at 6:39 AM
    #99
    bill8331

    bill8331 W9LSC

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    I have tried this product on my 2013 extended cab frame, I'll let you know how it works when the weather it warms up
    BERKEBILE 2+2® PROTECTION FIRST CLASS

    RJJP any update on your experience with stuff, ease of application, does it last, etc... it looks good on paper but Amazon reviews arent so good.
     
  20. Jun 23, 2019 at 9:20 AM
    #100
    broke_down

    broke_down highly opinionated with little experience

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