Wishbone Runner's Build

Also got my driveshaft back after a tune up, retube with 2.5” x .120 wall and new u joints from Rocky Mountain Driveline. They used Neapco joints, as they informed me that Spicer are not what they once were. Here’s the breakdown in case anyone was curious, $400 OTD.

 

Did you do a before and after dyno to verify hp gains from blue anodized hood pins?

 

Those are stick on hood pins.

 

So..... only 5hp per?

 

I didn’t, but 5 per seems about right. I just really hope they don’t whistle like a mofo.

 

been using those guys for years.. built my one piece, re tubed my 2 piece, re tubed kayla's and rebuilt kaylas spare...

 

what's it look like inside?

 

Awesome, they were super nice, so I’d highly recommend.

Coming soon, I put the pins in and forgot to take pics, was over it and didn’t want to prop open the hood again to take pics. :lazy

 

you able to get hood struts in there?

 

Yeah, they are there, I got some splatter on them while welding that killed the seals and depressurized them. Have some new ones on the way but have been using a piece of box to prop the hood up and has been a real bitch to deal, they were on their way out anyway.

 

All buttoned up, for now. Still need to mount the washer reservoir, redo all the accessory wiring, mount the winch and solenoid and build some fender liners.

Seen below is the PS res mount attached to the new radiator support, hood pin mounts, compressor mount and new battery tray.

 

I started on the solenoid mount this afternoon, building it off the engine crossover.

 

Nice work James.

 

Buy a 4x4ish sheet of black 1/16-1/8 thick UHMW to make inner fenders out of. You;ll thank me later when your hood isn't dented from rocks getting thrown at it!

 

Yup, that’s exactly the plan.

 

Installed new Ballistic rod ends on all of my links this weekend, not super happy with them in general. First they fucked up and shipped me 3/4 instead of 7/8 end for the upper pinks which I tried to install last weekend unsuccessfully. They sent me the correct ones, but the quality of them is aweful, the threads on the cap are all poorly finished which caused the cap to be stuck resulting in me breaking the spammer, which is also a piece of shit. A few of the set screws were drilled and tapped to close to the end which was part of the cap issue. Also the threads on the shaft were full of blemishes making threading them into the link a feat of brute strength. Going to be having some choice words with them tomorrow, we’ll see what they do to make it right.

 

Also the zerks wouldn’t take any grease, hopefully with a few miles on them they will loosen up enough to take some. Got the upper links on, but one of them will definitely need to be replaced when I need to adjust the preload on it, I had one extra for the pan hard that I swapped out and used, but that one is fully fucked and they will need to replace. These are all the 2.0 joints, the 2 5/8 ones for the lower links were perfect.

 

Today I finally remounted the washer bottle and horn, nice to have those back. Then took care of some wiring, cut and mounted the winch switches and wired the all up, just need to install the winch in the next few weeks. Also pulls the cig lighter and put in a dual usb with voltage readout, currently setup as a keyed on but may change that up. Had to ditch the DAC button for now til I find a holder for it and cut a hole for it.

Edit - fuck that’s upside down.

 

dog will love that winch in and out button

ask @Gramps about dogs and those switches

he has a couple bars to protect from incidental winching

 

Bummer with the rod ends. Nothing sucks more then counting on a machined part to be quality and coming in half assed. Hopefully they make it up.