Simple Clutch Mod

I wish that I could. I don't have a tubing bender or flaring tool.

Someone that has a friend in the brake business should be able to pull it off.

I have a friend that knows a lot of boat racers. I will ask him.

I do think that bleeding that out is gonna be a mofo. It would be worth it though.

 

yeah i used to be hooked into some hardcore builders of race boats and drag cars in WA, but no longer in the fold, and i don't know anyone well enough here to ask. good luck and I'm sure if anything gets off the ground there will be an audience.

 

Hey, no worries! It's just a simple thing that I feel helped the clutch perform better. It's something I've carried over from most modern MT's.

That's the good thing about this spring. It's easy to remove and re-install if need be. If you can't jive with the feel with it removed, just pop it back in! Personally, I feel it clean up the shifts and makes it easier to predict when matching / down shifting. I don't mind a harder clutch. Again, that's a preference!

 

If I can find another free weekend one of these days I'll try and figure this accumulator thing. For now, this patch works for me. Figured I'd pass it along.

 

Agreed. It is simple to try.

 

If you ever want to try, use Nicopp tubing, it is the easiest hard line I ever worked with. Recently, my Ex-GFs Son bought an Aztek and all the brake lines were shot, I redid all of them with that stuff.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

Watching to see how people like this mod.

 

Solid advice...but you DID just contribute to an Aztec remaining on the road. You know this....RIGHT!

 

I know, I know, and when the Head Gaskets failed I tried to get him to unload it but that kid is hellbent on keeping that thing...

 

@Rob Daman You might want to read through this for your clutch pedal squeak.

 

You're a better man than I my friend

 

Definite possibility and pretty easy to lube.

 

I just know he has had his at the dealer like 3 times for this issue.

 

Not cool.

The arms of my spring were well coated in lithium grease. Not so much by the time I got it back in there. Mostly because I was trying to stuff it in by hand. The zipties will keep the grease on there.

 

Haven't had any more squeaking after they removed the assembly and greased it up but it's only been a few months.

Thanks for the tag

 

Some of you... I can’t even

 

sub'd. i might try this. It's quite cold here too.

 

Something I was thinking about and sure enough found a note from GM on the clutch pedal spring and it's removal:

Condition/Concern:
It appears that some Corvette owners are removing or disconnecting the clutch over center spring on their vehicles.

This is not a recommended practice and customers should be advised of the implications of such an action.

Recommendation/Instructions:
The clutch master cylinder has a compensation port that is positioned within 1 MM of the top of the stroke. The compensation port allows internal pressure in the clutch hydraulic system to be exhausted into the master cylinder and also provides for system refill as the clutch disc wears.

One purpose of the over center spring is to return the clutch pedal to the very top of the stroke to expose the compensation port. The second purpose of the spring is to provide for the designed clutch pedal feel.

Removing or disconnecting the spring may allow the clutch pedal to hang in an at rest position with the piston short of the compensation port. If the internal pressure is not exhausted the CSC may get stroked too far and a clutch hydraulic system failure may result. The C5 clutch hydraulic systems were built by AP. The C6 systems were manufactured by FTE. Also, the pedal must be in the full up position, with the compensation port exposed, to bleed properly.


When you remove that spring and if it is indeed keeping tension on pedal to keep it fully engaged with your foot off, removing it may cause premature wear. It's like slightly keeping your foot on the pedal or the weight of the pedal itself ever so slightly disengaging the clutch. Or like in the above, not allowing the wear adjustment to compensate because the pedal is never fully returned all the way up.

Now this is an assumption but something to be aware of if removing the spring. You want to make completely sure that the pedal is still fully engaging and returning with the spring removed.

 

Good info.

That is a big problem when folks swap levers on motorcycles. If the rest position is not set right, esp on the front brakes, it is often endo time. I had a friend that this happened to when he was getting his 89 Gixxer running again. We were able to get fluid to flow back into the reservoir when bleeding and even saw a disturbance in the fluid when stroking the lever, but a crusty remnant must have blocked the port while riding. He was lucky to only be going about 5mph or less when the wheel locked.

I looked at this last night, the pedal did rest on the master piston without the spring, but there was enough internal pressure, most likely from the diaphragm spring, that the piston fully extended. There might be a light spring inside the master cylinder also. That depends.