PTR13-35150 - Bilstein TRD PRO kit - Upgrade??

Will do , just put tape starting at hub and go up ???

 

Center of the hub...and keep the ruler plumb.
( Straight up and down, 90 degrees, not crooked or on any angle.)

 

just ordered for my 2011 DCLb at oempartworld.com. I was going to order the 6112/5600 combo next month, but opted for these. I want 1.75 to 2 in front. I'll need to select a leaf pack for the rear. Looking for stock rake so equal to slightly less lift in the rear. Considering Wheelers 5 leaf pack. Open to other suggestions. I'm constantly loaded with cbi plate bumper-swingout tire carrier and a bedrack wrapped around a Bestop Supertop. Wish me luck. tk

 

Saw you're in Portland. Beaverton Toyota can get these for you overnight, and they have a 10% coupon on their website. I almost went the online route til I saw that.

 

I guess I'm confused on how pre and post lift don't do that as well. Unless you are installing a different set of tires and wheels with your lift, wouldn't 2" of difference between start and finish of lift install be 2"? I swear I'm not trying to be difficult.

 

Yes, thats ok when measuring for your truck only but not when trying to compare / measure vs other trucks.

 

Maybe I mis-understood your question (I'm not trying to be difficult either!). For personal use, it doesn't really matter. But for forum guys "watching" and comparing measurements of your truck to their trucks, the hub to fender measurement is much more useful. If everyone used the ground to fender measurement, we'd have numbers all over the place due to new tires vs worn, different rims, etc. Yes the actual lift value could be determined for everyone, but with a standardized measurement (hub-fender), we're all talking apples to apples.

Example: you report your hub to finder measurement, I can then go to my garage and measure my truck and see if it's the same. If you did ground to fender, your numbers wouldn't mean anything to me. Yes, your final 1.25" lift value is meaningful in and of itself, but it makes it hard to do a direct comparison without doing some math in regard to tire/rim size. Even then it's still difficult. When you have 20 forum guys all reporting different measurements, it's not easy to compare without the hub to center measurement.

Make sense? Maybe I'm the one that's confused.

 

You're right in that you can determine the overall lift by comparing before and after results for different people with different wheel and tire size, but it's nice to start and finish in the same range. For instance, if someone says they were 27 before and 29 after (random values) you can go out to your garage and say "well shit I'm 28 stock" and see how your truck "stands" compared to other 4x4, pre runner, 4 banger, v6 double cab etc.

Plus the numbers become familiar because they are repeated.

Also, your 2" lift with hot tires from a long highway drive in 70 degree weather might shrink overnight when the temperature plummets and your tire pressure drops 5 lbs. you get the idea!

 

You gonna go with this Pro suspension?

 

If we wanted to know your view on the metric system, we could have gone and read the rest of your comments you made about it

 

Yes sir, it's ordered, paid for and ready for pickup at the dealership. Busy with work and family right now but I will be heading down to pick it Up and get it installed in the next few weeks.

 

Thank you for reminding me of the ignore option

 

Who are you?

 

There are those that use the metric system, and those that have been to the moon.

 

I kinda get what y'all are saying about the hub to fender measurement, but isn't it still almost all the same if the truck is sitting on the ground at measurements from either hub or ground to fender? Reason I ask is if your tires are the same size as mine, but mine are worn down a little more than yours, my measurements would still be the same if i were measuring it from the hub or ground(on the amount of lift achieved) .. Not trying to confuse anyone, cause I'm still confused myself, but why wouldn't before and after measurements taken from level ground to the center of the skid plate with size of tires taken into account be more accurate on the amount of lift (I know every truck will have a slight difference,tire size,weight,ect..) ? Like I say I'm not trying to start a pissing contest, just trying to get a better clarity of understanding the amount of lift.

 

Called who?

 

EAGLESWIN10 is still working. Shipped to Jacksonville NC for 580 and some change.

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/oem-parts/toyota-trdpro-susp-kit-taco-ptr1335150

Stoked about this coming. Do you guys need to put new leafs in with this install or is that just a nice to have? Can I do this without the leafs or will the rear end become way to hard or soft? Just wondering never lifted a truck only Jeeps so never really had to mess with the leaf springs on the trucks.

 

You don't need to do anything in the rear but you will likely sit a little nose high compared to the front. (about an inch). If this doesn't bother you, just bolt everything on and you are good to go. If you want to get back to a level truck, then you will need either a block, add-a-leaf, 3 leaf add-a-leaf, or a new leaf pack. Each of these options all vary in price and will have different effects on ride quality and load capacity.

Nose High:

 

Awesome, yeah that is not too bad and is definitely something I can wait on doing for a little bit. Also what size tires do you have there TPC? Or do they just look different because of the 17" wheels?

 

KO2 265/70/17 these are 1 inch larger in diameter than the stock sport tires.