Why won’t this work? Rear sway bar

i Figure if it would work then they would already be out there. Since the only 2 options for our 2nd gens are sway bar on or sway bar off, because disconnects for the front become a difficult (sketchy)arts and crafts project. Why not get rid of the front sway bar all together, and go to a rear sway bar, with disconnects? Would it work? Could it work? It seems like a solid axle with no cv boots or tie rods in the way is a much better platform to tinker with. Obviously nothing will work as good as the Toyota engineers designed it, but for people who want the option of having more articulation while still being able to not drive a trophy truck on mountain roads, could this be a viable middle ground? I’ve got to be missing something here. It has to work.......right?

Disclaimer: I don’t care how cool you think not having a sway bar is, I AINT DOING IT...... @spartanhockey6 hahah

 

Honestly, the sway bar is a REALLY simple yet elegant solution to a very complex problem. Most people don't truly understand how it works. When you DO understand it, it's hard not to marvel at the pure simplicity of it. It solves the problem of achieving great handling WITHOUT having a totally shit ride due to super harsh springs. It allows you to have your cake and eat it too.

Anyway, some vehicles DO come with a rear sway bar. Many of the full size trucks come with one from the factory. I suspect this helps increase stability which ultimately increases the tow rating. Most of those big trucks don't see much offroading anyway so it makes sense for them to have sway bars front and rear. For the Tacoma, I don't see any reason why you couldn't have one. Obviously, it will require a custom fab job. I think some of the 4 Runners had a rear sway bar and a similar axle to the Tacoma. I'm betting you could use that as a guide to make your own.

I should also note that making a splitter for the front sway bar is likely the best option though. I haven't done it but I'm certain it can be done. I just need time to do it.

 

@Lurkin ​

 

@ItalynStylion any cutting/welding that is done heats up certain parts of the metal different from the rest of the sway bar giving it weak points that probably shouldn’t be trusted to take the stresses as the truck rolls, is the way I see it, unless it is all heated up and cooled down in a manner that retains a sway bars........uh sway bar properties ( I think it’s called annealed). Maybe I’m just looking way too far into it. Any idea which generation of the forerunner has that similar sway bar you were mentioning?

 

Seeing how old white lightening is already at 130,000 and 8 years old, It's about 28% on its way to becoming a weekend warrior, THE SWAY BAR STAYS OFF BRUH.

Edit: Rockin no sway bar when I put my rear bumper on should be tits.

 

Honestly, I don't think it's quite so serious. I've analyzed how it operates and I believe you could cut it in half and build a coupler to lock the left and right sides together. In the picture below, the red line represents the axis of rotation in the bushings holding the sway bar on the truck. The front of the bar shows where the cut should be made in yellow. That part of the bar doesn't exhibit torsional (twisting) force. The area of the cut would be subject to SHEER forces; those that slide past one another. So a coupler just needs to withstand the forces of the bar ends trying to slide past each other. I have ideas for how to do this but haven't gotten around to doing it.