Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Then it's maybe failed assuming the middle button is still pushed in. It would pop back out after 10 minutes if you pushed it in to use the manual override.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990180180.pdf

 

Does anyone have the genesis Offroad dual battery kit for the 3rd gen I’m looking for a dual battery kit but I’m having a hard time picking which one

 

it is working again

 

After doing a shit ton of reading i think ive finally decided how im going to go about doing my setup. I only plan on running a winch/fridge/air compressor(still not super sold on this, may go CO2 but whateves) This diagram shows two house batteries which i'll prob end up running anyway. Found a killer deal on a optima yellow top for 130$. I'll link where i got this diagram and leave you guys to punch any holes in my plan. I dont see the usage personally in paying 200$+ for a fancy solenoid when my needs dont really require it. The indash switch is my fav part of the diagram. If a battery goes dead, i flip the switch and power the solenoid

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...heap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50/page3

 

I see most people are running their auxiliary battery as the same size as their original battery, seeing as though I'm not planning on running too many other lights and such off my aux battery, can I use a smaller battery, like a motorcycle battery and use the same type of isolator relay kit that you guys usually use? I'm just wondering because I'm thinking of putting it in the 7"x7" space highlighted in my picture below. Can any isolator relay kit work for a set up like this? Am I wrong on any thinking? I'm just planning on running an aux panel off of it. I've had a small aux battery before to push a sound system I had, but it was never connected to a iso relay kit. It was just ran on its own. Would that help? thanks!

 

My main battery is a 31m and Im running a group 27 or 24 as the auxiliary. So far I haven't experienced any issues. I am using the blue sea ml-acr and it has worked very well in my application of running a fridge, lights, inverter and a couple usb's

 

Thanks for the reply! Are you running a regular iso relay kit? is there different amps or anything I need to worry about when buying the kit do you think?

 

@tacoma16 oh I see, the blue sea ml-acr is the iso kit. got it. Thanks!

 

this is the kit I am using
https://www.bluesea.com/products/76...rging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A

here is a link in case.

 

Thinking of going dual battery to run stuff in the bed while camping. I have a optima but I’m not certain what type, all the labels had been removed before I got the truck used.



If I run a basic isolator system, is it really nessicary to buy two new fancy batteries? Or just buy a decent priced AGM house battery that has a fair amount of amp hours for things I plan to run?

 

I'm planning on running this smaller battery for minor lights and sound

$36 Chrome Battery YTX12-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free - Sealed iGel Motorcycle Battery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IUWLZMW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=A3UNYF78MGMXY1&psc=1

do you think I need an isolator or can I just parallel the batteries? i've also seen people talk about a continuous duty solenoid, is that a better option? just trying to give my main battery a break for my misc aux stuff

 

By putting them in parallel you are upping your amps. However if you drop too low you won’t be able to start the truck which is why most guys isolate them. What ever isolated you use it will work. Can’t discuss the benefits of one from another. I went with the blue sea unit it as I understood it required less amps for it to connect and disconnect (essentially run).

 

I just kept my starter and got a new smaller auxiliary. Don’t know if that’s the right way but it has worked. I have a five year warranty on my auxillary worst case.

 

It is obviously an Optima Red Top which means it is a starting type. Perhaps by 'type' you were asking about size or group? Might be hard to determine that without some labeling but you might be able to figure out which group size it is by the location of the positive and negative posts and the overall dimensions of the case. Compare it to the info on Optima's website.

The reasoning behind matching batteries is so they will behave the same. Mismatched batteries may not get recharged the same regardless of isolator setup.

 

Yeah it’s a Optima Red Top 34/78. Verified online and with a local battery shop, we tested it and it’s still strong so I got a matching Yellow Top 34/78.

 

OOOH! That's just sneaky! I like it!

 

Finished my swap today!

Group 24 deep cycle wet cell marine battery from Walmart, plastic battery box, Jegs battery tray/mount, all bolted into my toolbox:



This Isolater solenoid from Amazon:

$81 12V Dual Battery 140A Smart Isolator (VSR Voltage Sensitive Relay) for Auto/Boat/RV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

couple 100amp fuses and fuse holders, some 4ga audio cable, some 3ga welding cable and a bunch of copper lugs and heatshrink.





and then I installed three marine 12v sockets in the side of the bedbox





Now I can run power for the LED lights in my CVT RTT, a 12v heated blanket and hopefully a 12v fridge someday

 

well, i think i have a problem. I thought i'd save cable and ground the aux battery to the frame and it would still work...however, when the truck is running I only see 13.6V at the aux battery. Do I have to run the neg cable from the aux battery all the way to the neg terminal on the starter battery for it to all work right? Or is it likely that my isolator isn't working?

 

How long is the cable to your aux and what gauge?

 

3gauge welding cable, maybe 7-8ft for the postitive lead.

probably only 4-5ft for the negative since it went straight to a bolt hole in the framerail, which I ground to bare metal.

I was certain i'd seen several people do almost the exact same setup with the Blue Sea ML-ACR and the cable lengths were not a problem.


EDIT: I must be thinking about this wrong, with the truck off both batteries are about 12.5V. When running the start battery is about 14v and the aux is 13.65v. that must mean it's charging, but i'm losing some because of cable length and diameter then? I need a little reassurance :/