How to check/adjust valve clearance on 3.4L 5VZ-FE?

I have never done this before but I will be replacing valve cover gaskets soon and maybe even the injectors.

I was wondering if there are some videos or write ups on how to do a valve check and shimming, while I'm in there.
Thanks!

Please keep this thread on the topic of 3.4L engines please.

 

Same, I think mine are overdue but because I don't drive it much it wasn't priority.

 

The same way that was answered in a thread from 2.5 years ago that you participated in.

Post 9.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/5vz-fe-valve-adjustment.381189/

 

CRAP, I gotta remove the timing belt. uugh...

And I also gotta buy shims? uugh..

 

I had a shop tell me a couple weeks ago they are not adjustable, so you guys clearly have nothing to worry about.

 

But wouldn't the shims wear out over time? I know the motor oil will lubricate it to keep the cams from making direct contact.

 

That really seems like a hell of a job. I don't feel like I'd do it right, I don't want to pay for it, and I don't want to bury my head in the sand. Unsure how to proceed. Wish I didn't know.

 

So the link @StAndrew posted in that thread has a write-up, I'll check it out in a bit:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128/5vz-fe-3rz-fe-2rz-fe-valve-adjustment-tech-226997/

Surprised no one responded to that thread!

 

Where does it say the TB needs to be removed? Just skimmed the write-up.. forgive me if I missed it

 

I looked at. Which is the reason for my comment.

 

The cams have to be removed in order to get to the shims. should be a set for the intake and the exhaust. right?

 

This is one where unless you REALLY know what you're doing, you're better off paying someone. Especially if you're squeamish about pulling the cams.

 

Hmm, well if I'm gonna be doing the VC gaskets, how many more steps is it to remove the camshafts? Can I measure the clearances without doing this?

 

You have to mark the cams, unbolt cam caps, remove cam caps, remove cam, remove shims one by one, measure shims to ensure proper spec, if not within spec you replace with the proper one.

 

someone in this thread said you don't need to remove the camshafts.. From another source.. again no mention of removing the camshafts:
"Then you can remove the covers. Once you have access to the valvetrain, you need to begin measurement of the valve clearances. INTAKE: (.006-.009"), EXHAUST: (.011-.014"). Use feeler gauges to measure the clearances between the cam lobe and the valve shim ONLY when the lobe is 'pointing' upward. Document all changes that need to be made on each valve, and label accordingly."

 

This is incorrect based off every shim/bucket valve train I've ever worked on. Clearance is checked with the cylinder at top dead center, then you measure the clearance, and move along. Cams only need to be removed if you have to change the shims.

 

Thats interesting, scratching head atm. Not sure how thats done with the cam still in place.

 

OH, this was the removal process i followed from one of the links. Just skimmed down, not mine.

 

You put a feeler gauge in between the cam lobe and bucket. It can ONLY be done with the cam in place. You're measuring the clearance between the cam and bucket, not the thickness of the shim.

 

yes measuring clearance with the cam inside, my comments were all about how to adjusting. 2 links in this thread, one shows that op remove the cams, another states you don't have to remove the cams.