I can't open my rear door

So, I f'd up pretty good here. Was doing some sound proofing on the doors and putting them back together, the door latch must not have been connected all the way or something, and after I closed the door, it won't open now.

Is there a way to get the door off without cutting through the trim? I am really hoping there is a trick to this.

TIA

 

You aren't the first that's for sure. I know I've read that other people solved it but not sure how.

This thread has posts where it happened I believe. Might try doing some searches within this thread to find someone who did the same thing:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/premium-audio-upgrade-for-less-than-250.510424/

 

Thanks!

 

I DO know that usually this is caused when the door clip wasn't pushed in far enough. You should be able to pry the swtich plate back off and push those connections in futher right?

 

There is a chance I can wiggle it off and then pull them off. If I can get them off the plastic I can just push it and get it open, I'll have to try that

 

Did you get it figured out?

 

I'm waiting on a wire coat hanger, but I am hoping I have a solution. If you partially open the door handle you can see inside where the wire sits, I should be able to grab and pull it with the coat hanger. Tonight or tomorrow morning at the latest I am going to give it a good shot. I added a bunch of sound deadening so it makes it harder than it should be.

 

I was thinking you could just take off the window controler and reach in there to fix the wire connections. Did you mat over them?

This thing:

 

Good thinking with the coat hanger. Had a similar problem in my 4runner. Lock actuator went bad and door was stuck shut. disassembled as much of it as I could with the door shut and just pried and prayed. was able to slip a hook down the center and grab the rod. Good luck.

 

I have that piece off and there isn't any room to reach up, I have cdl tile and over 1/2inch of closed cell foam and mlv behind the trim. I pried a little and tried but I don't want to break the whole door trim.

 

Ok so this is the last thing I'll say and I'll leave you alone.

I just watched the install video again and the only electrical connection that you have to do for the rear doors is that one clip. Did you try shoving that bastard all the way in? The only other thing I could imagine that isn't connected are the cables that hook into the latch.

Is that what's messed up at the moment?

If so that sucks but I could see how a hanger might get you there.

 

So all my electrics work, the door locks are good and operate. When I open it up a little so I can see the wires/balls, both are hooked and in place. I think the problem is the door opening one, isn't locked into the trim, so it moves when pulled instead of the wire itself moving. I am hoping with the wire I can pull it further than the door latch does and get it to click.

 

Holy lord. At least the lock works so you can rule that out. Good luck with snagging that latch cable. Def snap a pic of the proceedure when you get there. Somebody will need it.

 

Yeah, I will try to take a few pictures of my issue, and how I am approaching it. Hopefully it works and then the next guy who does this can find this thread and get back in their truck. Just happy it wasn't the front driver door!

 

If the problem is you just didn't insert the green piece all the way , like in the photo below, then this trick should work.

"You pull on the handle a whole inch or two further. Past the point Where it normally stops. You have to be willing to say screw it! And pull it as though to break it. Cool thing is it doesn't break! "

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/door-lock-cable-not-connected-properly.490209/#post-15091526 "

 

Looking at changing speakers and this is concerning. Is there any other issue other than the cable just not staying on the clip? If that's it, then perhaps some sort of tape securing them so they can't come out? I'm just trying to figure out how they would come out after they were put back in.

 

You're over thinking it. The problem is that he didn't snap the outer part of the cable back down into the latch.

The lesson here is to check the door latch mechanism before you shut it. I'm sure eveyone in this situation wishes they had done the same. ( I actually came across a post like this before I did mine and that's the only reason I tested before I shut the door ) So now you know.

 

Can you just engage the metal bit that grabs the post and then test the handle all with the door open? Used to be able to do that on older cars.

Anyway, I just kept reading how people were saying bungee the panel so you don't have to remove those clips and it seemed it was some huge problem.

 

Yeah, you put the door all back together and then you test before you shut it. I personally like it off to work in there. You just gotta reverse the steps. All of them

 

Cool. It didn't look difficult but I keep finding these problem threads lol.