Tacoma ECU Tuning for 4.0L

What years have been uploaded?

 

5 day update...I have a 2014 DC SB...I shift my gears while driving 5th down to 3rd always...occasionally to 2nd...never to 1st.

In 3rd or 4th with the revised powerband I can easily overtake any car and going uphill, truck will easily accelerate to redline and I’ll need to shift up.

The 91 tune and running 93 gas has really removed all hesitation the truck had. This truck is now quick getting from 2,800 to redline.

The truck responds and shifts really well.

 

Thats good news. Hopefully I can regain my bottom end that I lost with header back exhaust and no cats. The motor struggles to get up and go below 2800rpm currently with the lost back pressure.

I've been waiting 2yrs to feel the benefit from all my bolt ons that I found out where worthless, after the fact, without a tune that works in unison with them.

 

I've held out on bolt ons simply because without a correct tune they would be little more then expensive noise makers plus maybe 5-10 hp. UCON is solid but 3x the price, Bullydog isn't this involved, and unichip seems to have mixed reviews from what I've seen.

 

No! It isn't because you lost back pressure. Back pressure is always bad. You moved your torque curve because you changed the wave harmonics of your exhaust system and didn't adjust your cam timing. Let the back pressure myth die!

 

The 1gr needs some backpressure as NA.
The 1gr has variable valve timing on intake only
I am not sure how one goes about adjusting the timing other than UCON control
URD offers cam gears for exhaust side to help empty exhaust more but there is not significant information on gains
Backpressure is always bad for turbo/ supercharged setups

 

YWG2800 yet?
Pretty please!

 

Incorrect. Nothing needs back pressure. Back pressure is always bad. But like I said, if you change your exhaust system harmonic properties, you need to adjust to account for it. The engine was tuned with the OEM exhaust system in place, and the OEM tune works best with that setup. If you change the exhaust and nothing else, of course performance is going to suffer, you've disrupted a major part of the system that Toyota spent years optimizing. That doesn't mean that 'you need backpressure' it just means if you buy a more freely flowing exhaust you need to compensate for it.

I understand why the myth persists, exhaust design is a lot more complicated than most people realize. We're talking advanced fluid dynamics and acoustics. People get doctorates in subsections of gas interactions that have to be accounted for when designing an exhaust. That being said, if you'd like to learn more, swing by your local library and check out

$36 Scientific Design of Exhaust and Intake Systems (Engineering and Performance)

this handy little book. It's not an exciting read, and it's definitely a little dated but it touches on the fundamentals of good exhaust design without getting insanely technical.

Of course if you wanna keep spouting uninformed nonsense then I can't stop you, and since this is wildly off topic if you'd like to discuss it further please send me a PM.

 

Eager buyer here. Buy it back from him, make sure it works ok and sell it to me. I can pick it up in person in Vista mid March.

 

I'm a believer that some back pressure is needed for optimal performance, but like you said that's for the way Toyota has engineered and tuned this motor. Taking all the cats out was a bit too much for NA. For FI, hell yeah no cats, open er up! Let that sucker breathe! Either way, I'm not making any more modifications to my exhaust unless it's a resonator. It seems once vvti kicks in, 2800rpm or so, it rasps a lot. DTLT, URD comp Y, and mbrp can, 2.5" header back.

 

You're wrong and I can prove it with math!

 

Never claimed to be right, just what I believe. I've been wrong before.

 

OH, don't do that, my brain may explode.

I do agree with you on the back pressure myth though. Back pressure is nothing more than the measure of how much restriction there is in the exhaust. Best way that I have found to settle this in my mind is that your concern needs to be exhaust gas velocity, as at low speed you want high velocity (smaller pipe) to enable exhaust gas scavenging from the cylinders. At high engine speed, you still want high velocity, but to enable that you need a larger pipe. Exhaust system design, pipe size and "devices" in the stream, is a compromise between the two with optimization for low, mid, or high rpms (notice OR here, pick one to optimize).

 

https://youtu.be/jjPeP_Nn2B4

Check this video out on back pressure by an engineer. Ok ok lets get back on topic

 

URD Supercharger! I'm in

 

4.0 NA AT. Have not done any freeway or offroad yet but so far it feels the shift points are different. Truck holds out a tad longer before shifting. Once it gets into the mid band of the RPMs it has a nice feel. Shifting seems smoother. Still lags like a MoFo but again that is from my heavy ass tires. Tried playing around with readings on my OBDII sensor but no replacement for a Dyno.

@bobsuruncle you were soo close. =p

 

I bought another one from @DanoDavis

 

ha nice! looks like it worked out. You get it installed yet? Were heading to the Mojave Desert next week. I may try the 91 tune for that trip.

 

If the people just now ordering get their tune before me I'm gonna be seriously butt hurt.

 

Were you at least able to download your map and send it to him for the tune? If so you should get it soon. Took me a couple weeks but sounds like if the ecu is on there you should be good.