Slider serve as step rail?

Mobtown Offroad · Feb 16, 2018

ls7alex said: ↑

@Mobtown Offroad what's your lead time right now? from order/pay to doorstep
Click to expand...

Up to 12 weeks BUT we had another fabricator start this week to try to get ahead amd get these lead yimes back down.

Joe23 · Feb 16, 2018

Mobtown Offroad said: ↑

0° means flat or parrallel to the ground.

5° is the angle up, above 0° which puts the top, tangent edge of the outer round DOM tubing 1/2".

Increasing angles slants the slider more upward and every 5° gains you 1/2". Our sliders are max at 20°.

This is an interesting argument we see often. Flat makes a wider surface to be used as a step BUT even at 20°, there is enough distance between the truck and the top edge of the hoop to stand on, door open or closed. Both 0° and 20° stick out fair enough to protect the doors from car doors, rocks, trees, etc.

The next argument is when flat, you're more likely to high center. Yes/No. The main tube that runs front to back, under the pinch seam is flat at any degree. The angle of 20° is supposed to slide you down and off objects. This is assuming the object is under the outer round hoop and not that and/or the tube running parallel under the pinch seam.

As for offered angles, we only offer 0° and 20° and will not build any other angle. The dimensional changes are so minor we just don't see the benefit.

All sliders can be hi lifted from, if they can't then they're not a rock slider. Many companies claim to be full bolt on but be sure to check the fine print. Some will say that, then have a note claiming for full strength you have to drill the underside of the chassis.

HREW Carbon Steel Round Tube < DOM Carbon Steel Round Tube < A500 Square Tube in regards to deflection.

HREW < DOM in regards to dent resistance

Slider legs with gussets from the plate that bolts to the chassis all the way out to the tube that runs front to back under the pinch seam will be stronger than gussets that are shorter. Gussets positioned on the top of the tube if round tube should be centered on the tube. If the legs are square, the gussets should be position to one side or the other, not the center of the square tube.

An attachment plate that bends under the chassis will be stronger than just a flat plate of the same material and plate thickness.

The last support leg going from the plate that attaches to the truck and then to the tube running front to back is as far back as it can be on all designs. That point to the back end of the tube running front to back is called a moment arm. Unsupported and it can and most likely will flex upward and possibly into the underside of the cab or bed. We and another vendor added a support tube to remove that deflection.

With all this that I explained, we went with the strongest design in all areas. Many vendors do too so we went a couple steps further in how we attached them to the chassis which can be found in the link below.

http://mobtownoffroad.com/2015/11/18/what-makes-moboff-bolt-on-sliders-the-best/

Hope this clears up any questions.
Click to expand...

I really wish I got your sliders over RCI lol.

It was just much easier to get up here in Canada. But the price difference was marginal.

Maybe if you guys run a group buy on them again I'll upgrade.

Mobtown Offroad · Feb 16, 2018

Joe23 said: ↑

I really wish I got your sliders over RCI lol.

It was just much easier to get up here in Canada. But the price difference was marginal.

Maybe if you guys run a group buy on them again I'll upgrade.
Click to expand...

The good news is we have figured out how to ship in to Canada more efficiently and more cost effectively. Took some time to learn how to do it but we are finally set up with a Customs Broker and Freight Company.

StainlessSteelRatt · Feb 16, 2018

Mobtown Offroad said: ↑

The good news is we have figured out how to ship in to Canada more efficiently and more cost effectively. Took some time to learn how to do it but we are finally set up with a Customs Broker and Freight Company.
Click to expand...

Canadian shipping can be a bitch.

I had a stupid BOOK I bought get hung up in Customs once!

Mobtown Offroad · Feb 16, 2018

StainlessSteelRatt said: ↑

Canadian shipping can be a bitch.

I had a stupid BOOK I bought get hung up in Customs once!
Click to expand...

Haha, that sounds like a good time. I had to ship some hardware once, took 10 days through the post office even though it was on the other side of Michigan...

JimboAnz · Feb 16, 2018

Shameless plug, SOS Concepts bolt on sliders are an option for you as well. 20% off taxtime sale is live now. standard is 15° up, can do 0° flat if you like, would just need to make notes in the comment box at order time. Lead times are 8-12 weeks currently, but likely to grow a bit due to increased volume due to sale. Local to SC.

more info here

7r41lbr34k3r · Feb 16, 2018

I have Mobtown @ 20 degrees. I considered flat, but I wanted them to hug the chassis as much as possible. As it turned out, I like the angle for when I'm rigging stuff to the top of my truck. You can really dig in with your foot and lean toward the working area while keeping your feet locked in quite nicely.

jowybyo · Feb 16, 2018

Mobtown Offroad said: ↑

0° means flat or parrallel to the ground.

5° is the angle up, above 0° which puts the top, tangent edge of the outer round DOM tubing 1/2".

Increasing angles slants the slider more upward and every 5° gains you 1/2". Our sliders are max at 20°.

This is an interesting argument we see often. Flat makes a wider surface to be used as a step BUT even at 20°, there is enough distance between the truck and the top edge of the hoop to stand on, door open or closed. Both 0° and 20° stick out fair enough to protect the doors from car doors, rocks, trees, etc.

The next argument is when flat, you're more likely to high center. Yes/No. The main tube that runs front to back, under the pinch seam is flat at any degree. The angle of 20° is supposed to slide you down and off objects. This is assuming the object is under the outer round hoop and not that and/or the tube running parallel under the pinch seam.

As for offered angles, we only offer 0° and 20° and will not build any other angle. The dimensional changes are so minor we just don't see the benefit.

All sliders can be hi lifted from, if they can't then they're not a rock slider. Many companies claim to be full bolt on but be sure to check the fine print. Some will say that, then have a note claiming for full strength you have to drill the underside of the chassis.

HREW Carbon Steel Round Tube < DOM Carbon Steel Round Tube < A500 Square Tube in regards to deflection.

HREW < DOM in regards to dent resistance

Slider legs with gussets from the plate that bolts to the chassis all the way out to the tube that runs front to back under the pinch seam will be stronger than gussets that are shorter. Gussets positioned on the top of the tube if round tube should be centered on the tube. If the legs are square, the gussets should be position to one side or the other, not the center of the square tube.

An attachment plate that bends under the chassis will be stronger than just a flat plate of the same material and plate thickness.

The last support leg going from the plate that attaches to the truck and then to the tube running front to back is as far back as it can be on all designs. That point to the back end of the tube running front to back is called a moment arm. Unsupported and it can and most likely will flex upward and possibly into the underside of the cab or bed. We and another vendor added a support tube to remove that deflection.

With all this that I explained, we went with the strongest design in all areas. Many vendors do too so we went a couple steps further in how we attached them to the chassis which can be found in the link below.

http://mobtownoffroad.com/2015/11/18/what-makes-moboff-bolt-on-sliders-the-best/

Hope this clears up any questions.
Click to expand...

Joe23 · Feb 16, 2018

Mobtown Offroad said: ↑

The good news is we have figured out how to ship in to Canada more efficiently and more cost effectively. Took some time to learn how to do it but we are finally set up with a Customs Broker and Freight Company.
Click to expand...

If I can find a buyer for my RCI I might be ordering them

Freegolf · Feb 16, 2018

Canada has zero decent fabricators that can make sliders?

JBone25 · Feb 16, 2018

7r41lbr34k3r said: ↑

I have Mobtown @ 20 degrees. I considered flat, but I wanted them to hug the chassis as much as possible. As it turned out, I like the angle for when I'm rigging stuff to the top of my truck. You can really dig in with your foot and lean toward the working area while keeping your feet locked in quite nicely.
Click to expand...

I wish I could see them in person. I hate ordering custom stuff but I am going to look at 10 degrees with the plate.

synaps3 · Feb 16, 2018

JimboAnz said: ↑

Shameless plug, SOS Concepts bolt on sliders are an option for you as well. 20% off taxtime sale is live now. standard is 15° up, can do 0° flat if you like, would just need to make notes in the comment box at order time. Lead times are 8-12 weeks currently, but likely to grow a bit due to increased volume due to sale. Local to SC.

more info here
Click to expand...

+1 for SOS Offroad Concepts here. I have their skids, sliders, streamline bumper, and need to pick up my HC rear. They're well-built, and priced lower than all the competition (especially if you're willing to paint your own armor).

My sliders on my DCLB are 0 degree (flat) with kickout. My wife and 4-year old son use them almost daily to get in and out:

flinky · Oct 26, 2018

Joe23 said: ↑

I really wish I got your sliders over RCI lol.

It was just much easier to get up here in Canada. But the price difference was marginal.

Maybe if you guys run a group buy on them again I'll upgrade.
Click to expand...

What do you dislike about the RCI? Was thinking about going that route. Also in Canada

Joe23 · Oct 27, 2018

flinky said: ↑

What do you dislike about the RCI? Was thinking about going that route. Also in Canada
Click to expand...

They only provide grade 5 hardware
On the 3rd Gen they don't use all the holes they could, you only get 4 bolts per side to hold
Customer service is poor at times
Mobtown has a significantly better mounting system.

That said with the price difference it's hard to justify buying the mobtown since I've put mine through plenty of abuse and they're fine.
Just in the back of my mind know they aren't designed as strong

Freegolf · Oct 29, 2018

Joe23 said: ↑

They only provide grade 5 hardware
On the 3rd Gen they don't use all the holes they could, you only get 4 bolts per side to hold
Customer service is poor at times
Mobtown has a significantly better mounting system.

That said with the price difference it's hard to justify buying the mobtown since I've put mine through plenty of abuse and they're fine.
Just in the back of my mind know they aren't designed as strong
Click to expand...

Show me any brand of any slider where the hardware has failed. I guess if an over engineered and over priced product makes you sleep better at night ? Let's face it, bolt on sliders have been around for years and haven't needed a fancy mounting system to provide amazing steel protection. And those sliders DON'T take like 10 weeks to make.

Gunshot-6A · Oct 29, 2018

I have the standard angle Mobtown sliders, and they do great as side steps to get in/out, and to get to stuff on the roof.

Mugsy7 · Oct 29, 2018

Bastek said: ↑

Those are @Mobtown Offroad sliders with fill plates at 0°. Decent step on my daily driver, wife and kiddos "enjoy" it... But, if i were to do it again, I would ask for 5°. Still decent step, but could have a better clearance. Good luck with your choice!

Click to expand...

Off topic. Had Cooper Discoverer AT3 on my Ranger and loved them. They’re slightly more aggressive than the GY Kevlars and better all around tire. They look good on your Taco. Might go AT3/4S.

On topic. Some really good sliders on here and enjoying thread.

adk_tacoma · Oct 29, 2018

Mobtown Offroad said: ↑

0° means flat or parrallel to the ground.

5° is the angle up, above 0° which puts the top, tangent edge of the outer round DOM tubing 1/2".

Increasing angles slants the slider more upward and every 5° gains you 1/2". Our sliders are max at 20°.

This is an interesting argument we see often. Flat makes a wider surface to be used as a step BUT even at 20°, there is enough distance between the truck and the top edge of the hoop to stand on, door open or closed. Both 0° and 20° stick out fair enough to protect the doors from car doors, rocks, trees, etc.

The next argument is when flat, you're more likely to high center. Yes/No. The main tube that runs front to back, under the pinch seam is flat at any degree. The angle of 20° is supposed to slide you down and off objects. This is assuming the object is under the outer round hoop and not that and/or the tube running parallel under the pinch seam.

As for offered angles, we only offer 0° and 20° and will not build any other angle. The dimensional changes are so minor we just don't see the benefit.

All sliders can be hi lifted from, if they can't then they're not a rock slider. Many companies claim to be full bolt on but be sure to check the fine print. Some will say that, then have a note claiming for full strength you have to drill the underside of the chassis.

HREW Carbon Steel Round Tube < DOM Carbon Steel Round Tube < A500 Square Tube in regards to deflection.

HREW < DOM in regards to dent resistance

Slider legs with gussets from the plate that bolts to the chassis all the way out to the tube that runs front to back under the pinch seam will be stronger than gussets that are shorter. Gussets positioned on the top of the tube if round tube should be centered on the tube. If the legs are square, the gussets should be position to one side or the other, not the center of the square tube.

An attachment plate that bends under the chassis will be stronger than just a flat plate of the same material and plate thickness.

The last support leg going from the plate that attaches to the truck and then to the tube running front to back is as far back as it can be on all designs. That point to the back end of the tube running front to back is called a moment arm. Unsupported and it can and most likely will flex upward and possibly into the underside of the cab or bed. We and another vendor added a support tube to remove that deflection.

With all this that I explained, we went with the strongest design in all areas. Many vendors do too so we went a couple steps further in how we attached them to the chassis which can be found in the link below.

http://mobtownoffroad.com/2015/11/18/what-makes-moboff-bolt-on-sliders-the-best/

Hope this clears up any questions.
Click to expand...

how does one specify if they want 0* or 20*?

Pistol Pete · Oct 29, 2018

I have sos concepts at 7° and they work great as a step for my kiddo. @EddyRRT will make them from 0° to 15°

JLee · Oct 29, 2018

Freegolf said: ↑

Show me any brand of any slider where the hardware has failed. I guess if an over engineered and over priced product makes you sleep better at night ? Let's face it, bolt on sliders have been around for years and haven't needed a fancy mounting system to provide amazing steel protection. And those sliders DON'T take like 10 weeks to make.

Click to expand...

I agree I've yet to see one fail completely online or in person. But I have see countless times the slider contact the body from deflection of poorly designed bolt on sliders. With the off road market changing to "Overland Style" builds and the use the term very loosely as most of them never see the dirt #instacrawlers. I've been seeing more and more poorly designed bolt on sliders on the market that are bound to fail if used how they should be used.

Some buying tips for others when shopping for sliders.
Bolt on sliders if they connect to the body at all they are not sliders they are step bars.
The frame plate should wrap the under side of the frame and have at least two connection points. Sliders with flat frame plates should be avoided unless you are only going for looks they will flex a lot as the fulcrum point is the bolts and all bolt holes are above the leg tubes on Tacomas.
Structural gussets should almost never be in the center of square tube. While they can do just fine in most cases I've see square tube crush from impact with guests placed in the center of the tube causing the slider to contact the body.

With those simple guidelines you should have no problem beating the piss out of your bolt on sliders.

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