How to change crank position sensor?

They at first refused to replace the “new” sensor since they said it was the updated one. I personally said that I will not pick up my vehicle until the sensor is replaced since they couldn’t find anything at all in the fuel system Toyota corporate did agree to replace the updated one due to apparently there being a few claims on faulty ones since the recall. I had to try like hell to get them to do it. But finally Toyota agreed and they did it I don’t know if it would help you or not. But I felt pretty sure of it being the problem. And there has to be more than one complaint.

 

@MOC221, thanks for your insight on that. I have changed my CKP sensor, and noted it's back at the end of the block but didn't realize it was outside the block proper. Somehow it seems tempting to remove the CKP, and poke something in there and turn the engine (by hand) and effectively scrape off whatever coating is on there that seems to be problematic. I recently changed a clutch in an 05 Gen2 TRD including the flywheel and noted no reluctor ring, but then again, I suppose the engine is significantly different and has no CKP in this location on the 4 liter V-6. Yes, changing the CKP is a quick job, while changing the reluctor wheel requires pulling the transmission/transfer case unit, and the flywheel--but still, if that is wherein the real problem lies, then that's what should be done to fix it. Rather of course than a band aid solution that doesn't seem to work for some of us.

 

Yes, if they tell me they can't find anything wrong and think I'm going to take it home (and die on the freeway enroute...) then I'll be politely insistent about having them replace it. Or address the reluctor/sensor ring or something. Since it died on them on their test drive after replacing the fuel pressure sensor, I really don't think they would be able to convince any customer to take it home unless they've done some further significant diagnostic and repair work on it. Toyota has not worked this problem out yet, and I anticipate further TSBs or even further recall stuff on this stalling issue IRT the CKP.

 

I remember when the CKP issue first started, the common variable was hot or warm weather where this started showing up. The problem with electronic sensors, etc is they are always going to be effected by temperature to a certain degree.

The downside to modern electronics is that every single sensor or pickup unit is not tested. They are massed produced and depending on the contracted price unit per lot there is what is called the "acceptable failure rate" 1% per 20,000 5% per 100,00 etc. Not that these number reflect anything here, but parts vendors charge per unit based on how much vetting and testing they do. What Toyota may find at our expense, is the CKP sensors have a narrow range of acceptable operating tolerances and they may have to be carefully inspected and checked which is time consuming. Unfortunately, the warranty repair on these really doesn't cost Toyota that much in the big picture. But the moiment an accident and loss of life occurs due to one, may get their attention better.

 

I was wondering if my situation had anything to do with the fact that I had my truck professionally undercoated to prevent rusting. Which is basically a necessity in Nebraska with our weather. You think that is a possibility ??? Just a stupid theory of mine maybe. Sorry if it sounds dumb. Just wanted to ask

 

No.

All of this is shielded and internal. This was not a cause for your Truck's problem.

 

I agree. Not likely.

 

No, it was most likely a defect with the CKP.

 

I second the comments re: temperature. My CKP started acting up on the first warm weekend we had back in April and degraded thereafter until I replaced it in July. Before that I did not experience the wild swings in drivability.

 

Thanks guys! Hey question off this topic. I was looking at getting new uca’s for my 2017. I was thinking total chaos or icon Is this a good choice. I have heard a lot of people complain about tuff country. Rough country rancho and ready lift. So is icon a good choice. Or total chaos. They are about the same price around 700$. Tell me please. I am just looking to get a better view behind my wheel but most importantly the huge clunky factory ones I want to replace with stream line ones Maybe also allowing a little more room between my wheel and my uca’s The wheels don’t rub. But it’s pretty tight under there. Maybe 3/8 inch space between tire and uca’s currently. Will one of these give maybe 1/4 inch more space than the huge factory one?

 

Hello @Tacolady00 and @Opihi59 . I to am now having very similar issues with my 2016 taco with 46k on it. The car just dies sort of like it is out of fuel or vapor locked. If I wait 10minutes it starts up again and I can drive it for a short time and than it dies again.. It did throw codes p0430 and p0420 but nothing else, the dashboard shows the oil temp trans temp warning but I think those are just there because of the stall...

It is now at Toyota for the 4th time. It seems to manifest after about 12-15 miles of driving. Toyota had me remove the 3rd party alarm from the car in hopes that it was the issue. It was not. Today I believe they will be replacing the CPK, I am not on the recall list but it is all that I can think of to do at this point and the tech thought that it did seem to be the least intrusive and best path at this time.

I will keep you updated.

Tacolady good luck on the UCA. Either of those are great choices. Do you happen to know what your wheel backspacing is? That and tires size will impact the distance between the UCA and tire. I went all in on DirtKing upper and lower CA's with Fox and have no issues running a 16x8 -10 (4.11 BS) wrapped in a 285/75

 

Those codes would tend to imply bad cats. You've had your truck in 4 X for the same problem with no resolution? Still throwing same codes?? What are the previous symptoms leading to these visits to the dealership, and what is it they have done on the previous 3 visits, and what were the codes at those times? Still the same symptoms?

Do you have any modifications to your truck other than the alarm system?

 

Hey there yes. THAT IS EXACTLY what mine did. Word for work. And all it was was that sensor. That’s it. The one in my truck was the “updated”
One. But it was still faulty same codes. Same everything. So if they need to know what happened with mine call baxter Toyota in Lavista (omaha) Nebraska. They will tell them to save their time and just replace it. There is now a history of this issue. So one dealership can speak to another to help them. If they need the number I will give them the number and the general manager name. They replaced it with another new one. And I have had NO NO problems since. Hope this helps. Change that and I think you will be golden. That’s it easy. Hope they do it

 

Yes they do imply a bad cat. On both sides. But the cats are not bad...

Those are the codes that come up if a code comes up. Most of the time it shows no code when it dies.

Yes 4x for the same issues.

First time in I had no codes and they could not replicate the issue. I took the truck drove home it died and got the cat code. Drove it back and they replaced the cat. This did not need to be done I think but it’s what Corp said to do.

Second time in was the day again when I picked it up after cat. It died again after about 15 miles. They looked super hard for rodent damage and could not replicate the issue. I picked it up again.

Third time in—It died again on the way home I got the second cat code and drove it back letting it die every mile or so after a 5 min cool down. This time they said it was the alarm. So I went and had the alarm removed. It died again after 15 miles or so.

4th time in I said look man...I think it’s the ckp. Let’s replace that. They did today and took it on a extended test drive. It has not died yet on them. They are going to drive it tomorrow morning for another 20 miles and call it good I hope.

I have other mods yes but they all hook up to the battery. Switch pro, wench, arb compressor. Lots of suspension mods, 4.88, front locker armor blah blah. The tech agrees that nothing else I have would cause a engine to simply stall like that.

I hope it is fixed and not in the same boat you are in...but if so my tech will be calling your shop as well.

 

Oh and the total chaos ones were the best thing I ever did. I now have about and inch and a half maybe smidge more room between my wheel and my uca and I have now added a three inch toytec lift. Dakar add a leaf and diff drop. Best ride I have felt in my truck. I am in love with this set up!

 

Mine didn’t throw codes either. They took my entire fuel system apart stem to stern cuz Toyota told them to. But yes all in all it was just that sensor. Everything that happened to your truck happened to me lol. So. Yes. Do the replacement and I think that will be your answer to your prayers. And cheaper for them lol

 

My ride is super nice as well. Did this:

 

WOW. Yours is a million times cooler than mine

 

Well it was the ckp. Changed it out and 150 miles later no issues.

Woot. Thanks for all the info on this thread. @Tacolady00 you rock for posting all of this. Thank you!!

 

That’s freaking awesome. I am so glad that was it! Hopefully all these posts help someone else too. Im happy you have your truck back!