What oil should i be using for best performance

nope, they do not last any longer, dino IS "sythetic"......it is the additives that make it "synthetic", the more engineered your additive package is and how well you refine the base stock is what makes it "synthetic" or not. The BASE is still dino "synthetic" or not. The truth is oil NEVER wears out, that is why old oil can be filtered and redone again and again, the additives are what wear out. The US military routinely runs oil in the 2 and halfs and 5 tons for a year or more without change....and it is not "synthetic"....

 

Hmmmm.
Well all I can say, and I know this is not scientific, is that my synthetic oil at 4000 miles looks "pretty damn good" and my dino oil at 3000 miles looks "dark and tired".
I know, not real scientific, but it is plain to see in front of my eyes..

 

"dark" means the oil is working, your dino oil is not as heavily refined and does not have the "same" additives as the "synthetic"(esters)

what you need to look for is smell and texture, if the oil spells burned or like fuel is in it, it is junk, color is not a good judge of wear or protection, some "new" oils are dark out of the bottle. Toyota says 5k for oil.....good safe range for an oil change. I do my changes when I feel like it, cheap insurance.

My race bike has the oil changed monthly, oil is black within 3 min of tick over......since the oils job is to clean, you might be using a higher detergent in the dino than the synthetic which would give that "new" oil look after 4k.

 

Huh, interesting.. Well the semi synth that the dealer put in last change looked pretty darn good at 4k. Felt good too, I'm sure 5k is fine.
I put in Mobil 1 full syn this time. I'll change at 5k.

 

Do you like taking money and just flushing it down the G-damn toilet?

 

Do explain......

 

I am good at that but not sure what you mean here...

 

I do the same thing and usually it is pretty black.

 

I'm just giving you shit. Some guys here say changing synthetic at 5k is a waste of money, that's all. It's your truck though

 

Cheap insurance if you ask me. I only drive 10k a year. It cost me $35 or so doing it myself. Crap who cares. I waste enough money on shitty coffee at least I'm sleeping well with my engine maintenance.

 

You will get a bunch of answers use one of them. I get what's on sale

 

O'Reilly it is!

 

That is about the gist of it.

Synthetic vs conventional, neither is bad, neither is the best.Use what you want and change it regularly. the only time ANY oil should go past the recommended interval is if you drive nothing but freeways. The reason is all physics and thermo dynamics. The short version is the oil stays at a consistent temp and is constantly flowing. City traffic is what causes oil to break down faster.

There is a ton of oil opinions here, some have facts in them, most are bullshit or myth. go online and search out API, SAE, and other testing and reports on what is what. Stay away from the hype that Amsoil,Mobil,Penzoil, and the like promote.

oil is like octane, LOTS of bullshit very little truth.

 

use good syn oil......run it 7K miles.....

change filter at 3500 miles........top it off again

filters are inexpensive

 

best oil you can get is the one that gets changed out by the manufactorers recommended OCIs

 

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary

Do some research and come to your own conclusion.

 

Just use the correct viscosity. I had a friend that worked in a refinery inDuck Island Trenton NJ. He said the only difference in the oil was the container it was put in. For example, the 10w 40 went into the Pennzoil, Quaker State etc. It was all the same oil different containers.

 

Exactly. Both are owned by Shell.

Actually had to visit Shell last month for work. One thing they mentioned is there is no regulation/rules for saying a product is synthetic. There rule of thumb was the product had to be at least 30% synthetic to be labeled synthetic.

 

Here we go.....