The Lair

These ones! It may not seem like a lot, but it gives you a surprising amount of room to work underneath.

RhinoGear 11909ABMI RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramp - Set of 2 (12,000lb. GVW Capacity)

FloTool 11909ABMI RhinoRamp Vehicle Ramp Pair - Ideal for Stress-Free Home Garage Maintenance - Reduces Slippage - Works with Low Clearance Vehicles - 12000lb GVW Capacity - Extra-Wide Design

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117EETEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ip0HAb6369CMV

 

That's a lot of hashbrowns

 

Is it really a necessity to change brake fluid? Before tw I've never heard anyone change it except when bleeding

 

I think it gets old..

 

Ah...

 

New brake juice should be changed. The older stuff (which isn't sold anymore) not so much.

Empty the reservoir, fill with new fluid. Don't empty the whole system. If you do, you'll have to bleed. Run it for a week. Then after a week or so, repeat the process and fill with new. Boom. No need to bleed and you've changed the fluid.

The new brake juice likes water. It will cause your lines to rust. It is water soluble.


Edit: I asked my boss who is very much into cars and restoring them.

 

The way I understand it is the only way to change the fluid in the lines is to bleed them... otherwise when you replace the fluid in the reservior, it just stays put as the brake system is not recirculating the fluid.

 

Those are great advices, but I won't change my fluid lol

 

The need to change your brake fluid is due to moisture build up in the old fluid. It reduces the boiling point of the fluid causing braking power to diminish as heat builds in the system during hard stops (not a time I would want my brakes to stop working) and on top of reduced performance, like @Redmann mentioned, the water building up in the system can rust your brake components from the inside out.

 

I will never understand why they don't use a higher grade metal in the bleeders.

I have seen several videos on YouTube of different mechanics snapping off bleeder screws while trying to service brake systems. One I can clearly remember (Ericthecarguy) ends up bleeding them at the caliper or drum where the line connects to it after breaking several bleeder screws. But there is still that small fraction of fluid still inside the caliper that doesn't get changed that way.

On my next vehicle I will service and clean the bleeder screws at each oil change so that the need for a complete flush will never happen because I will rotate the fluid a little each time I crack the bleeder at the service intervals. Then just top off the reservior when finished.

 

I can see what you're saying. It's not like there is a feed and return line for the fluid. It's just a supply.

From what my boss said, you will notice the new fluid turn darker after that first week of using the new. That's why he says to change it the 2nd time.


Disclaimer: I never changed my fluid either. I only ever fucked with it when I installed new brake components (other than pads) on a vehicle.

 

This sounds like the most logical way to me

 

You are correct brake fld is hydroscopic thus absorbs moisture that may get into the brake system to keep it from sitting somewhere and rusting something out more. There can be a reduced feeling of brakes due to this moisture. But on older vehicles with some mileage on them a lot of that reduced feeling has to do with the master cycl., calipers and/or wheel cycl. being old and getting a little tired. I would recommend changing your brake fluid around the 30k interval. Some of the newer synthetics can go longer. That brings up another point don't ever mix the synthetic brake fld with non, you must completely empty your system first before switching to synthetic.

I like your idea of bleeding a little out at each oil change. The only issue is most of the water trapped in a brake system is in the reservoir. The cap and seal are where the infiltration of moisture usually occurs.

This is how we do it in the shop.

1) suck out all the fld in the reservoir and refill with new. You can use a hand vacuum pump or one that is pneumatic.
2) fill secondary reservoir that pressurizes and attach to vehicle fill port
3) open all bleeders then pressurize the fluid tank close all bleeders starting with furthest from the master and working your way to the closest.

Here is an image of a flush tool that is similar to what I use except instead of a pump I used one that pressurizes from shop air. These are also used as a pressurized bleeding system.

 

Here is a good video that shows the process of bleeding the entire system.

https://youtu.be/V5O_pbC8R2E

 

Yeah I have watched ETCG I also like Humble mechanic. Humble mechanic use to work with my buddy at the VW dealership. Both them are actually putting some decent real world information out there and not just keyboard commando shade tree crap that isn't true. As a fellow auto tech I really appreciate those 2.

 

Well, my light bar already more than paid for itself....

Took my oldest for a ride to put him to bed for the night...light bar saved me from what likely would have been a close call with a small group of antelope. I was able to see them headed to cross the road in front me with at least 100 yards to spare. Was able to slow down, hit my hazards, and slowly approach as the group finished crossing the road. I was a bit leary though, as I know the herd is LARGE (75-100 head strong) so I was half expecting the dummy that was potentially lagging behindhe group to Sprint at 60 mph out in front of me...like the Kamakazi deer I hit did!

 

So I finally pulled the trigger on this puppy. I will be using it to air down when I go to the beach. Ebay had a 20% off coupon for Presidents day so I bought it for $47.xx not that bad of a deal if you ask me

 

Lit Norris for the win!

 

There are antelope in Utah??

 

I was thinking the same thing!