Fade back into black!

Im not sure if this has already been disclosed, but in my past searches for a solution for my once black, turned oxidated (greyish/white!) trim, i never saw it~ so Im gonna share my great discovery all over (just in case someone else has been searching & wasting $"on bunk products all over the place, like I was!): Just today I was told about the brilliant move of using a Heat gun to lightly go over (& restore!) the black on wheel wells & front bumper area (whatever it's called) & mudflaps! Why isn't this info widely circulating? The first time you go over it, it turns a matte black, then if you go over it again- it becomes shiny! I'm sure I'm probably doing some irreversible future damage, but it is so gratifying now! I've longed for this result! Hahaha

 

nice!

 

It's damn Genius, whoever discovered this should have a Real American Hero's song made for him!

Wonder how long it lasts for though and if you can just keep redoing it?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/search/5556130/?q=Heat+gun&t=post&o=date&c[title_only]=1&c[node]=4

 

Brie did you ever get your windows fixed?

 

Not the right way. Did get a friend to rig (pardon my slang) the driver side switch to my always hot lighter. Still don't have lock function on driver or passenger window, or electric mirrors, but those are minor annoyances. Especailly when I'm now suffering from the dreaded Delayed Engagement from Hell!! I should have been grateful my problems were just those of convienence & comfort!

 

Thanks! I knew it had to be on here, don't know how you found it so easily when I searched the same words (well, plus 1 word... that must be why!)
That guy really went into detail! Bummer to see he concluded painting was the better choice, that's more time consuming! But the good thing is its actually a truck project I can do myself, without having to bother my friends, who I'm sure are sick of me & my issues!

 

Buy a can of plastidip, takes 10 minutes.

 

Delayed engagement?

 

Honestly, the heat gun is way faster. No prep, no pealing overspray dip. You don't even need to clean the flares, even though it's probably a good idea.

 

I've heard that the heat gun works really well but it doesn't last very long and the more times you do it, the less effective it is...never tried it myself though, just what I remember reading on here. I ended up painting mine with black bedliner

 

People said the bed liner paint and plastic dip both peel &/or get scratches & nicked easily. I didn't clean or prep at all (which I'm sure I should have), nor did I have any immediate adverse effects from going over dirt...

& yes Jonny 9 , D.E- transmission/torque converter symptom of putting car in gear & instead of it immediately engaging (& even rolling on its own a little, before acceleration) it does nothing until it finally responds to the revving RPMS by slamming violently (even with just the slightest press of the petal) into gear. It's really disturbing!

 

How long ago? How's it holding up?

 

Got this trick to work on my bumpers, couldn't get it to work on my flares though.

 

Plastidip doesn't peel unless you want it to, doesnt scratch any easier than the bumper does by itself.

 

Assuming the fluid level is good? Maybe @gearcruncher might have an idea.

 

You experience a harsh engagement when the transmission is put into any drive position: Check the adjustment of the throttle cable. It may simply be out of adjustment. Refer to the shop manual for details on how to correctly make the adjustment. You might also want to take a look at the primary regulator. If it’s faulty, it may be contributing to this problem. Also take a look at the accumulator pistons. Make sure the piston is not broken. Check the cylinder that the piston rides in for damage. Is the cylinder is damaged or does it have deep scratches in it? This may be causing the piston to stick in the bore.

 

Sounds more like when she puts it in drive it doesn't go into gear until she brings the rpms up. Like a low fluid pressure at idle rpms.

 

I've done both heat gun and plasti-dip.

Heat gun trick sometimes can get tricky to get a consistent solid black and doesn't last very long before it fades again, since the plastic itself had already been degraded by UV.

Plasti-dip is easier to get uniform finish and does stay black for a bit longer. However after 3 years under the sun it looked terrible, I could have just applied another dip but decided to go with a more permanent solution, which was paint with SEM trim black. While prepping for paint I really wished I didn't Plasti-dip, it had been so far degraded by the sun that it was almost impossible to get off, it wouldn't sand, peel, nor scrap so I ended up wasting hours and made a giant pile of mess dissolving it off using acetone.

 

Wow, thanks you 2! That sounds hopeful (anything other than "get a new transmission" is music to my ears!)! The fluid is good, was just changed and is up to specs. Would all of this apply even if it was Clunking/slamming into gear when it's already driven a block (or several) & just resuming acceleration from a stop sign or light? It happens then & usually when I 1st start the truck & put into drive. I even give it some time before lightly pressing on the gas & it still does it. Your same quoted troubleshooting tips still apply?