SPC Control Arms with OEM 16 inch Wheels?

I bought the Toytec Ultimate lift and the SPC control arms, AAL and a few other bits for my 06 Tacoma TRD O/R. The TRD O/R comes with 16 inch rims and I have LT265X75X16 tires.

Will the SPC arms work with my 16 inch factory wheels?

And adding a second question. The two inch AAL will proably be around 1.5 inches due to my SnugTop, bed mat and the fact I tow a 19 foot Boston Whaler enough to sag the springs down some. Do I need to install the axle/spring angle shims and the drive shaft carrier drop?

Thanks,
J

 

I have the SPC UCAs and 16" stock wheels. Great combo

 

Only if you have vibrations in the drive line then yes to the CB drop and angle shims.

 

With that little lift, you shouldn't need anything for the drive line angle.

 

Thanks guys. My truck I bought ordered summer of 05 and picked it up in September. It has just over 100,000 miles now. Looks and rides truly like new and never a single issue. So it is getting these mods as a present to keep it snappy looking. I do not like that the new Colorado sits higher (looking) than my Taco.

Plus, I do off road and explore with my kayaks and bikes. I have an 06 Rubicon with a 4 inch Currie/Savvy full short arm lift for challenging the big stuff. I just want to give my Tacoma a better stance, increase it's off road capability but nothing extreme, but functional and useful to the truck.

J

 

You could use the CB drop, shims is way overboard for your lift height, but as @Pigpen said, you truly don't need anything drive line related.
If you plan on cranking up those coil overs to the full 3in, then yes, go with SPC's, will help a bunch with alignment. Just make sure your shop knows what they're doing, some don't like messing with adjustable anything because they're used to sticking it up on the machine and it doing most of the work, with only minor adjusting by the technician. SPC's aren't complicated to adjust but some shops have refused to do my alignment because of them.

 

I have lifted two Jeeps and a Tundra and a HiLux, did all the work myself, including some fabrication. But this time due to my 64yo age and it being cold out and time constraints, I am going to allow my local general auto shop do the work. They have done well for us on my wife's vehicles and the occasional item I did not wish to mess with along the way. They do good research, I trust them (within limits, not honesty but ability). But I need to offer them guidance.

Here is my Rubicon, Tom Woods shafts, full Currie double adjustable short arms, Currie HD steering and front and rear Currie track bars, HD brakes, Rancho adjustable shocks, Savvy aluminum corner armor and sliders, Warn bumpers, Terraflex anti-rock, MT wheels and 33 inch BFG ATs.



I will post up a pic of my Taco after the work.

This is not something maybe, all the parts are laying in my garage, lift is to be installed Thursday. If I get vibes I am not going to fool around with it, I will immediately order a TW shaft. Just trying to get the best shot at not needing to spend the money, but if I have to, been there and done that on the Rubi, front and rear.

J

 

You can preset the UCAs where you want them before giving them to the mechanic. I put mine on the neutral (+2 degree) setting. I think I should have gone to the 3 degree setting. I'll change it before my next alignment. If you're doing a 3 inch lift, set them to 3 degrees.

 

The Toytec Ultimate lift says the AAL will be 2 inches and the coilovers are preset to 2.5 to 3 inches. I suspect, as I said in the OP, the weight of my tow hitch, SnugTop and OEM bed mat will settle the rear down to about 1.5+ inches (a guess) so I was going to have the coilovers lowered to about 2+. I want to keep some rake, both for looks and towing purposes, I do not want the truck squatting when loaded for trips. This my quandary, I do not think I should need the differential angle shims--but---?

It is not like the Tacoma TRD does not have a ton of ground clearance stock!

 

Got the lift installed. Turned out to be a full two inches in the rear and three inches in the front. I am going to let the rear springs settle in and then turn the front adjustment down a bit to restore a little rake. It sits a little high in the front but I will let things settle in before I jump on adjusting the fronts. So far, so good.

J

 

Here is my 06 TRD O/R is with the new Toytec Ultimate lift and SPC control arms, AAL in rear on TSB spring pack and extended rear bump stops. I did the differential drop (yeah, yeah) and the carrier drop but did not add shims to the axle. No vibes, smooth as silk. She went up three inches up front as set and two in the rear. After the leafs settle I may drop and level the front a wee little bit and get another alignment adjustment.



Waiting on a light bar, skid plate and a decision on sliders to be made yet. It has the OEM 16 inch wheels currently with Cooper 265X75X16 LR C tires. The SnugTop was ordered as an option.

I bought the truck new, ordered it and picked it up in September of 2005, currently just over 100,000 miles (just getting broken in). I sold a Tundra TRD O/R which I had also lifted similarly when I bought the Taco. I miss the engine in the Tundra but not it's size in my garage and about town or trail. I have towed my Boston Whaler 19 foot Outrage all over with this truck which is about 4000 pounds all up and that with the truck loaded to the gills with other stuff including two kayaks and bikes on the topper and cab racks. Previously I had a lifted Toyota HiLux that served me for over 300,000 miles and still looked and drove like new when a ditzy lady texting and talking while driving took it out. It got me home and died in the driveway, loyal to the end.

I need sliders bad!

J

 

Skids and sliders will tame that front end. Mine dropped my front 1/2" with my 885 coils