Latest & greatest headlamp replacements?

It's been 7 years and one headlamp burnt out, so it's time for an upgrade.

I am NOT interested in:

• Expensive ballast & HID systems
• Anything blue (≤3000K / Halogen only)
• Anything with extra wiring
• Replacing the entire headlamp buckets

You guys are a wealth of knowledge so I don't want to solely trust a Pep Boys search....

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw147i7D42wkASRRA_onqThu

 

WOW - a 56-page thread?

I went to the very last post, that helped a lot!

I work professionally in lighting, and I am surprised most headlamp packages don't list the color temperature of the bulbs (3000K, 4000K, etc.)

 

Osram Nightbreaker bulbs

 

This is probably the wrong forum to bring it up, but as far as the Osram Nightbreaker bulbs, I am interested in the statement:

“Up to 20 % whiter light (compared to standard halogen lamps)”

There is no way to quantify “whiteness” as worded above, and I find it odd that even in the detailed .pdf spec sheet, it does not list the color temperature of the bulb.

For example, if halogen is 3000K, 3600K is not “20% whiter.”

 

FYI 3000k is not white... It's amber & very amber at that. 4300k is typically OEM white light with the best light output, all other variables being equal.

 

I'm just a simple guy I put the osram nightbreaker bulbs in and they were a nice improvement over the original bulbs ymmv

 

@crashnburn80

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-headlight-upgrade-h4-not-led-or-hid.398066/

 

Somebody told me that bulbs that are slightly more blue (3500K) such as XENON make it easier to see if the windshield is dirty, and this was BMW’s idea.


Can anyone attest to this?

 

Why are you convinced that 3500k is "slightly more blue" output? Did you even read my response?

 

Light output doesn't really start to look blue until 6000k and higher. 3500k is going to be yellowish/amber. My HIDs are 5000k and it's a pure white output.

 

I guess you are one of those guys that like to go online and argue for one reason or another.

3500K is slightly more blue compared to halogen (typically 3000K) when moving through the Kelvin scale.

I read your first post but did not comment because you are simply incorrect, 3000K is by no means amber. In fact, amber does not have a CCT. (Please stop reading if you don’t know what CCT means.)

I am not here to argue, but if you want to discuss SDCM & MacAdam Ellipses, blackbodies, and the ANSI C78.377 nominal CCT quadrangle, you are probably on the wrong forum.

I think I might be better off reading through the thread in the second post.

Thanks dudes

 

I work professionally in lighting so I can tell the blue-ish of 3500K when compared to 3000K.

Even so, I will “accept” 3500K as long as I can find replacements for the lower driving lamps to match.

Just hoping for everything 3000K first.

 

I'm assuming you are referring to this information below, it is in the end of the original thread under 'Other Bulbs'. Color temperature ratings are available for many bulbs, but yes many do not list it on the packaging. Philips X-treme +130 lists it right on the back.

For marketing terms, yes that is what they are referring too. A 20% increase in Kelvin. Philips is marketed the same way. The general population is not going to understand 20% increase in Kelvin, so they dumb it down.

Not sure where your source got that information. Xenon lights aka HIDs are typically in the low-mid 4000k range for an OEM application. Higher color temperatures have shorter wave lengths and are more prone to refraction. This is why lower color temperatures, with longer wave lengths, are better for seeing in poor weather conditions as the light will refract less and cause less surface glare to the driver. I don't see how decreasing the wave length of light would help visibility with a dirty windshield any more than with a clean one. OEM HIDs are required to have integrated headlight washers because the dirty lens causes glare, which isn't helped by the higher wavelength of the HID.

 

Low color temperature and upgraded bulbs do not go hand in hand together very well for halogens as typically higher performing bulbs are whiter. The +130 bulbs are 3700k, if you step down to the Philips Xtreme +100 bulbs they are 3400k. You can get them for both your headlights and fog lights. Or look to lower +xx ratings for warmer color temp.

 

Unless you replaced the factory housings with ones specifically fluted to be driving beam/spot lamps, they are not driving lamps. The factory lamps are fluted so that light is dispersed low, short throw and wide angle...aka fog lamps or inclement weather lamps. Designed to be used to help illuminate road edges and markings in foul weather so you can more safely see the road at reduced speeds. Check out lighting specification J583 or J2510.

Driving with them on during normal (e.g. clear, dry weather) night driving may give the perception that you can see better, but that's a farce. You can see better up close to the truck because of the additional foreground light, which is causing your pupils to constrict and actually reduce your vision long range, which is where you need it most.

Something coming into view up close, while driving at any amount of speed (>25mph), it's frankly already too late to do anything about. I'd prefer to be able to see those things farther away, giving me potentially more time to react.


$0.02

 

Argue? Who's arguing?

You can spout off whatever you want but the headlight industry says OEM HID white lights are 4300-4500k. You can beat your chest & act like a petulant child but it doesn't change headlight industry standards. Go online & order a set of HIDs in 3000k & post pictures of how "blue" they are. ROFL

You're not worth my time. Lots of luck!

 

I have to agree with ^^^^. Nothing in the 3,000 range will have even a hint of blue. Generally that'll be 6,000+. Even high 3,000 will have a yellow hue. Your numbers are all off.
I prefer a ~4,300.

 

For what it’s worth I like the Sylvania silverstar ZXE’s.