TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Open the supercharger res and put fluid in until its full and swirling inside the res.

 

a gallon or so

 

Buy 3 gallons. It will most likely take a little more than 2 to replenish the engine coolant and fill the sc system. That's what mine took and I did not drain the block.

 

More like a quart for the SC

 

And I assume that the 3 gallons will make up for the fluid that i DO NOT reuse? I dont plan on trying to save any of it from when I drain it out of the radiator.

@Roostfactor

Looking at doing the cam/thermostat/ucon and s/c this this coming weekend.

 

Cleaned up the engine bay a little with a degreaser in a purple spray bottle. power clean or something like that. sprayed on and rinsed off, then hand dried it a little. Might not look like much cleaning, but the before was even worse haha

 

might as well clean whatever you take off for the install before putting back on. like those valve covers

 

...but I cleaned those today. . . haha

 

is there a preferred side (driver vs pass) to install the AFR sensor? In the pic, it looks like the driver side.
Also, does the pic have the sensor in a good spot (or is this an O2 sensor? which would prevent me from drilling a hole there. I cant grab a look right now on my truck)

 

GL with install.

 

Also, IF i decided to put the AFR in the Ypipe, which would be behind the cats, am I screwin myself TOO bad? I am trying to research Driver, Pass, or Y pipe. It looks like the Y pipe option may throw off the AFR by ".2-.4" so it comes down to whats worse: having only one (driver or passenger AFR) OR putting it rear of the cats, near the intersection of the Ypipe??

 

came across this from @loginfailed on another thread: "I did one on each side, but not many people see the benefit of doing that since it’s double the cost.

If you’re just doing one, do it after the merge. Like @Torspd said, that way you get all cylinders."

Looks like right after the merge.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wideband-sensor-location.513271/

Thanks

 

If I were starting over and still had my stock manifolds, I would put it after the Y-pipe merge. Sure the readings will be off a little because you are after the cats, but not worth the hassle of removing the manifold, drilling the hole, welding a bung on and reinstalling.

 

Finally got a boost guage,

 

Just hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and did the fpr mod at the same time. I no usually the fpr is hooked up to atmosphere. But now that it’s hooked to manifold pressure is the fuel pressure going to go down under vacuum? I no it will go up under boost. At idle it reads 38 psi and spec is 40-41.

 

Nice. I have the same gauge. Running all aem now!

 

Yes that’s how the FPR mod behaves. I undid the FPR mod becuase it didn’t seem to make a difference in how the truck ran.

 

I undid mine too, it made my truck run sluggish. I just cleaned my afe filter after 9,000 miles and that was a nice improvement.

 

Yeah, 10:1 and it took off like a fat kid having an asthma attack when i did the frp mod, especially with short tubes.
Shortly after this the cats went poof... coincidence?

 

So after mixing a tank of about 93-94 octane, I have not seen one CEL of any kind. Maybe its shitty Phoenix gas. I get gas at shell, I thought shell was good quality