Has anyone retrofitted disc brakes in the rear?

Our truck was rated to tow 6,000 lbs with drum brakes. I believe the Silverado was using drum brakes up to 2012 or so - and its a full-size truck.

I feel fine with the brakes on my OR. I do wish they came with disc from the factory because I prefer to work on disc brakes, but current performance is fine for me. Also, I haven't seen much on the argument of service life, drums last a long time compared to discs - so maybe I should be glad they came with drums so I don't have to work on them.

 

^You are supposed to check wear and clean/lubricate your brakes every two years, and flush the fluid every four, per the maintenance booklet. Rear discs actually complicate maintenance, because the drum brake mechanism is still duplicated for the parking brake, so there are almost twice as many parts to disassemble and clean. I found this out doing my Subaru's rear brakes... https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ru-impreza-2-5-na.187465/page-2#post-15708027

 

I drive close to 40,000 miles a year. I replace a set of breaks practically every other year - no inspection needed.

My WRX did use an inner drum for the rear parking brake. The pads last forever since they are not really stopping the car unless you are doing lots of hand-break turns.

My Accord actuates the rear disc caliper to hold the rear brake when using the hand/parking brake. It is a nice setup, but I hate the wonky tool you need to use to drive the rear cylinder in when servicing the brakes. I understand its part of the parking brake system, but its a hassle if you don't have the right tool. I digress...

 

That is the same style hand brake I have on my car using the caliper to squeeze, however during a brake change I never found that style to be a hassle rotating the piston back in.

 

I've never had a problem pushing pistons back in on calipers until I bought my used 2007 Accord. I bought it pretty inexpensively with over 150k on the clock - so I don't know what kind of maintenance the previous owner did on it. With the right tool its no issue, but otherwise it is a hassle. The tool pushes in the piston and spins it at the same time.

 

Exactly, those goofy little Cube Tools can be a pain, I do have nice caliper retracting tool with pins that rotates it in and it's awesome, however I did use needle nose pliers in a pinch on a Mazda before.

 

+1!
It maybe better spent. At the front that is.

As for rear disc conversion... I Just won't do it.

Scare me all you want, tell me how lousy and inefficient my stock my brakes are, I just won't do it, I have better use and plans for that $$$!!

And as always, I'll take my chances with the high-fi engineering on my truck because...

 

With ABS, you can still steer. Without ABS, you cannot steer. The truck will continue in one direction regardless of steering input, until the brakes are no longer locked up.

 

What I meant is that you can still turn the wheels.

 

Negative. You specifically stated that you can steer the vehicle. Which is implicit with turning the steering wheel. Which if the brakes are locked, turning the steering wheel has little to no effect in changing the direction of travel. The vehicle will continue in the forward direction of travel because the wheels are not rotating.

Until the brake pressure is released and the wheels can rotate again.

Using the term "front wheels lock," is contradictory with, "you can still 'steer' the vehicle" because by definition locking is in direct opposition of ABS. ABS retains the ability to steer because it is an Anti-lock Braking System.

Unless you speak in paradoxical oxymorons? Then I am a student to your confusing speak.

 

So you’re saying that you can’t turn the wheels?

 

No what he said is that if you turn the (steering) wheel while the wheelS are locked, nothing happens. You continue on course because the momentum of the truck carries it. When the wheels lock, they forfeit any grip they had because they are slipping, which means until you let off the brake you have no control because you have no grip

 

Obviously, I put “steer” in quotes because locked wheels are not going to afford the same control as spinning wheels. But I fail to see how he is refuting where you still retain more control when front wheels lock vs rear wheels. Unless it’s a feature on 3rd gens that I’m not aware of, I’ll admit that I own a second gen so I wouldn’t know.

 

My point was that if you’re going to have front or rear wheels lock up, you’re better off having the front before the rear. If you’re saying I’m wrong then I must be.

 

In a car with ABS sure, send all the power to the front wheels because the computer is just going to cut braking power when the wheels slip anyway so it doesnt matter, and as others have pointed out the fronts do most of the braking so logically it makes sense. In a vehicle without ABS, the only way to really brake effectively is to have all wheels lock as close to the same exact moment as possible so you can most effectively gauge how/when to threshold brake while also effectively distributing your braking power as efficiently as possible.

 

Ok all tacomas have ABS. Also the discussion I responded to was having front vs rear brakes locked up. When you lose your back end, it’s more difficult to recover than when you lose your front end. If you lose the front momentarily and get it back, the vehicle will auto correct on your front trajectory. If it happens in the rear, it’s unlikely you’ll regain that proper trajectory. At that point your pretty much buckling in and going for a ride.

 

I always use C-clamps for that part.

 

I invited you whole heartedly into this Mobius Circle debate:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/abs-on-this-truck-is-dangerous.68167/page-113#post-16975298

 

That would be a mistake on rear discs that have the handbrake built in the caliper as the piston screws back in, I have actually seen guys fracture the piston with a C-clamp.