Anyone understand electricity??? Please help me :-/ NOCO Batteries?? ARB Fridge??

So as I'm gathering up parts to start my adventure/ overland (or whatever you call it), it occurred to me that I could likely forgo a second battery all together if I had jump pack on hand in case the worst case happened and I killed my battery with my fridge.

Well that go me thinking if I go the largest NOCO jump pack could I just power my fridge with that while the truck is parked rather than leave it plugged in to the factory wiring system. I figured it should be easy enough to figure out if there is enough capacity in the battery to make this viable. Well try as I might I have no idea if it's even close, or way overkill.

Can some one that is a tab more electrically/ mathematically savvy help me out PLEASE?????

I'd like to use this http://store.arbusa.com/Fridges-C11.aspx (the 50 quart version) which according to my online research draws "-0.7 to 2.3 amp/hr @12 volts" per this review https://expeditionportal.com/buyers-guide-portable-fridge-freezers/

I would like to know how long the NOCO GB150 would last powering it. Specs on the GB150 are 88 Watt-hours. Per their website https://no.co/gb150?_sm_au_=iSVRFZ3kHZFWDkDQ

Can anyone out there clue me in as to how many amp hours, 88 Watt-hours equals at 12V??? I'm sorry if this is confusing. Bottom line will the Big NOCO jump box power the 50QT ARB fridge with only it's battery for _____ Hours???


Say at:

1.0 amp/hr draw how many hours will it last _____???

and at the max:

2.3 amp/hr draw how many hours will it last _____???

NOCO claims 88 Watt-Hour Battery

Thank you a SO MUCH in advance.

-YOTA

 

Bump for the day shift waking up.

 

Amps X Volts = Watts

So 1 amp @ 12 volts - 12 watts.

A watt hour is 1 watt for 1 hour.

So at minimal draw, the GB150 won't last 8 hours.
It was designed and intended for a massive energy dump as a jump start, not really as a power source.

What you really need is something like a GoalZero Yeti.

I have the 1250 and it will run my Whynter DualZone with the freezer side set to 0° to keep ice cream sammichs nice and cold, on a hot summer campout, for the whole weekend.
They also take solar panel input to charge in the field.

They are pricey... But I love mine.

The new Lithium 1400 is lighter and more powerfull, but even more pricey!

To answer you question directly:
Can anyone out there clue me in as to how many amp hours, 88 Watt-hours equals at 12V?

Assuming a 1 amp draw,
88 watt-hours / 12 watts = 7.33 hours

or probably a more realistic estimate;
2.3 amp x 12 volts = 27.6 watts
88 watt-hours / 27.6 watts= 3.18 hours

 

I'm tired, been years since physics and I fubared the calcs. Above is correct. About .3 hours at max draw.

 

I think you mean 12 watts?

 

You are correct sir!
It's too early in the morning for this kind of question!
So multiply my answer by 10.
Or just go by @Ridgeline001 s answer. It looks like he is much more awake that I am.

 

It should run for about 3 hours depending on the temperature conditions.

 

AH HA! Ok perfect, so the NOCO is not at all a viable option in the real world. A goal zero is a legit option... but for $1400 dollars I can install a full dual battery system from Offgrid engineering or Adventure-ready and be way ahead of the game.... OK I guess that's what I get for even considering being a cheapskate. Dual batteries it is!!!!!!!! You guys are as always, AMAZING

-Yota

 

Lol. I'm not all there fellas. Been sick and up for over 24 hours now. So hell right now I can't say?

 

2.3a x 12v = 27.6 watts

88wh/27.6w= 3.18 hours

Somebody check my math and make sure I'm not crazy

Ok. I see Mob is in line with my original calcs. Thought my brain was fried for a bit.

 

346WH Portable UPS Battery Backup Generator,Rechargeable Power Source Inverter with 110V/500W AC Outlet,12V Car,USB Output,Car Jump Starter for Camping -Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MA4YVNP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQrLAbBQTAPEF

346/27=12 ish hours. The 2.3amps isnt the constant draw so could last longer.

 

Well that is certainly interesting, a lot less than a dual battery set up too. Guess I'll have to keep exploring my options before I drop big money on dual batteries. Thank you.

 

Add a solar panel (130$ ish) and the appropriate wireing to that set up and bobs your uncle.
Under $550. A nice easy system.

 

I see the convenience of this but $369 for only 31 AH is crazy!

See this as an example, look down to the 'frequently bought together section'. A diy put together system (minus the wire) for $198 and it is 100 AH.
That is 100AH/2.3A=43.47 Hours In reality it will less time but you get my drift.
Watt Hours are a marketing ploy to the uninitiated and that it appears to have more capacity than it does.
346 WH seems more impressive than 31 AH but when it come down to it they reflect the capacity of the battery the same.

$200 UPG Universal Power Group UB121000 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C

I know there are even cheaper alternatives, I just found this first.

Another way to state it...
Power in Watts = Current in Amps x Voltage. A battery rated for 100 amp hours will provide 5 amps for 20 hours. If we have a 12 volt battery, we multiply 100 by 12 and determine that the battery will provide 1200 watt hours.

 

I actually just pulled the trigger on an offgrid engineering dual battery system. Seems like the best for my needs. I was trying to get off cheaper and or lighter, but in truth space is starting to become an issue in my set up so why not use the wasted space under the hood. Plus hard to argue having a full extra battery ready all the time. Thank you all!!

 

so, you don't want to draw your batteries down more than 5o% or it will drastically reduce the life of your battery. There are some equations out there that you can use to see the chart of how far you pull the batteries down and how many recharge cycles and how that effects the life of your batteries at which point you can do the dollar math. so if it's a 100Amphour battery, you don't want to pull more than 50Amphours out of it, so rule of thumb, don't pull more than 50% of your battery capacity. Contact me for battery and solar capacity and I will guide you to the best of my ability to how many batteries and what solar panel rating you need to do whatever it is you need it to do.

 

Is the Ah rating listed for normal car batteries? I only ever see them on deep cycle. Also, you're saying that in a SLA deep cycle battery you shouldn't discharge more than 50% of the rated Ah? Why do they list it as 100 Ah if you should only drain it to 50 Ah? At 12v 50Ah is 600W. It's interesting because I built an adapter to run my refrigerator from the 40V Dewalt batteries. A 40V 9Ah DeWalt battery is 360W. I can run my fridge for about 23 hours on one 40V battery. Initially, I didn't think it was all that impressive. But know that I think about it, 2 of those DeWalt batteries is getting me more runtime than a 100Ah deep cycle SLA battery. Kinda cool I suppose.

 

Lithium ion for the win. Comparing 31ah lithium ion to 50ah (100ah) lead acid, Lithium ion is my personal choice. Plus the weight savings.

 

True, the Lithium is the choice for weight over capacity. The OP was concerned about cost initially so that was the basis of my example. Cost no object I would go Lithium hands down.

 

Yes i opted for the OGE full dual battery setup. But.... what a cool idea to use 40V LithIon batteries! Perhaps that poster should market and launch this product. Maybe through his employer???

In case anyone’s been under a rock the past 5 years, overlanding is HUGE business there’s definitely a market for that product especially if you had a clever bracket that could mount right up to a fridge/ slider.

Good luck with it. I hope you make a million bucks!!!