Turbo BS Thread

Did your truck sell already?

 

I wish.

It has no insurance so the only trips it can make are up and down the driveway lol. I COULD drive it. But it'll be my luck I go 3 years without wrecking it, but the second the insurance is gone it gets totalled.

 

I missed my truck like no other when it was down

 

Truck is back up and running now I just need to connect the AEM F/ic and set it up. Should I connect the arm to the computer first before to set anything up ? This seems like it’s going to be the hardest part setting it up and getting it to run good from everything I’ve read (posts and threads)

 

arm?

 

Prolly meant aem ("e" and "r" are right beside each other and i have had 15 years of typoed text from my wife so i look for these things)

 

I think he means the AEM.

I'd setup what you can before installing it in the truck just to speed things up. Also so you don't have to sit out in the truck and do it.

 

Makes sense, makes sense.

And yeah, a lot of bench tuning can be done before you even start the thing. You will have to do some values here and there with the truck running though. This link is to a dsm forum but in my opinion is a very helpful thread into using the AEM.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/253090

 

The AEM can run just off of USB so you can load a map even with it out of the truck. But do not upgrade the firmware or change the Hex file, it already has the best one for our Toyota's.

 

AEM !!

 

WOW !! I’m lost. Does this look like your maps and setup @arcenik I think I downloaded your setup but I’m not sure.

 

Yup that’s my map you could start with that and just scale the fuel map to start with.

I would just highlight the whole fuel map and raise or lower it till your idle trims are close to zero. It would be a good starting point.

Most likely you would need to get the map more into the negative. As I was running 320cc injectors with that map.

 

Mine is around -53% at idle with 550s FWIW

The setup wizard thing it has built in will get you pretty close too. Just put your default size injectors, and the new size and it'll scale them pretty close. At least startable.

 

I'm at like -44% on 550cc's
I found it got close but subtracted too much

 

Welp, clutch started slipping . Was driving home (beating on it most of the way lol) and noticed it start slipping in the mid-top of 4th. Granted there's 114k on it, so I'm not overly surprised but still...I was hoping to get a little more out of it lol.

With that said- replacement options for the 2TR? I'm a 2013, so I'm under the impression I have the Aisin CKT073 clutch in it already. I don't mind spending a little more to have a stronger clutch, but I'm trying to keep it modest- my 6puck in my STi was a royal mofo to street around with.

I was considering the Dual Comp Clutch Kit from LCE vs the Stage III Competition Clutch from URD. Leaning towards LCE because URD stuff seems so overpriced for literally anything on their site....thoughts from the gurus?

 

Idk how helpful it is but this thread may be worth a read:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/better-clutch-for-2tr.144555/

 

Yeah, read that a while back when I was bored- seems like the consensus was to go with the Dual Comp from LCE. That's probably what I'll go with, since no one has really said anything bad about the pedal feel- which is nice since this is my daily driver lol.

 

It’s definitely hard to find that mix of higher tq handling and streetability. Does ACT make 2TR clutches?

 

This might be better since I’m running 440s. If by default you mean stock that would be 289cc

 

Nope, but Clutchmasters makes an FX100, FX300, and FX400 kit with 70%, 110%, and 170% increased load, respectively. All signs so far are pointing to the LCE, still. Now to just see if we get any discounts for being TW members....hmmmm